Cova del Diablo

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
2 mins
Level
Dry in the Rain

This left (west) end of the crag provides a good selection of grades, and the finish of the girdle of Superwoman. The rock here offers an incredible number of huge pockets and buckets.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
You toucha my car, I breaka your face
The slab left of The Italian Job.
 
1 Stars
6a
2
The Italian Job
Grossly bulging territory for the grade; how big can handholds get? Climb the wall and then the overhanging ground on the left...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
6b S1
3
Swing Both Ways
A harder alternative to the above route, swinging right on to slightly more powerful ground in the bulging mid-section. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c S1
4
Liv
A fine line which touches Surfing Bird at the overhang bulge. Continue direct via jugs and finish up the golden streak. It is...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S1
5
Surfing Bird
The first of local activist Miquel Riera's original lines. From the lower ledge take the red/cream streak up through bold...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b S1
6
Blue Tuna
A great slice of climbing. Reach it either by a low, tricky traverse in from the left, or by dry-bagging into the cave. From...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S2
7
Let's Have It!
This ace test-piece is just about horizontal. Start in the centre of the low/left sea level cave, the very edge of the water...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c+ S2
8
Iguanodon
A mega-classic. Takes the silly-steep ground to the right of the last route, heading leftwards along a huge, juggy rail. As...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b S0
9
Microdot
This extension to the lower routes gives some high and feisty moves, pulling through into the top recess. For the brave only.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7b S3
10
Dancing Fool
Climb the wall to the right of the cave until you reach a horizontal crack. Now continue slightly leftwards with long powerful...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7c S2
11
Beware of Limbo Dancers
From the top of Iguanodon, traverse rightwards and use small holds to gain a crack-system. The bouldery crux comes on the...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a+ S2
12
If You Keep Your Face In The Sunshine, You Will Not See The Shadow
A very steep and sought-after prize here at Diablo. Start a few metres right of Iguanodon, and climb the steep wall to reach a...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
Fluttery
8b
13
Surfing in the Bar
Attack the steep wall a metre or so to the right of Sunshine to a sit-down rest in the cave. From here, an airy finale up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S2
14
Hip Hop
The streaked wall up and left of the big cave. Climb the left edge of the cave, and sprint to the top.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7b+ S2
15
Surfer Dead
A great route. Negotiate the right-hand edge of the big central cave, then go rightwards up the very steep top face - keep well...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S2
16
Sea Devil
The right-hand side of the enticing orange streaks.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a S2
17
The Lobster
One of the best DWS routes in Mallorca. Long, outrageously steep, and ludicrously juggy, with a relatively easy roof right at...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S2
18
Life is too Short to Spend it on Cheap Champagne
Start direct up the pocketed wall to reach the middle part of The Lobster. From jugs, make some bouldery moves going slightly...
 
1 Stars
7c S2
19
Right Here, Right Now
A proper blast. Sustained climbing takes you up to a powerful and fingery leftwards traverse below the final bulge.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+ S2
20
Loskot and Two Smoking Barrels
One of the most energetic deep water solos in Spain to date. Features a V10 boulder problem at 12m, which is essentially a...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
8a+ S2
21
Ejector Seat
Another great route. Fire up the steep, pocketed face to a crux move for a tufa pinch, and then swing right to easier ground.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c S1
22
In the Night, Every Cat is Black
Immaculate climbing, and a perfect ground-up proposition for aspiring 8a DWS merchants. The centre of the brown streaks is...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a S1
23
Hair Bear
The horrendously steep wall leftwards from the Afroman cave, to arrive at a complex sequence getting past a vertical slot....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+ S1
24
Ronatron
A very steep line indeed. From the start of Afroman, swing leftwards and take the bulging wall on hidden pockets. The top...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+ S1
25
Afroman
An incredible line, which crosses one of Diablo's steepest walls, on the biggest holds you've ever seen. Exit the cave on...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b S1
26
Whiplash
A steep and technical route starting at the right side of the cave, finish up Calamares. Hard to flash.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c S1
27
Calamares
Follow the line of Superwoman to the point where you start to move around into the cave (or alternatively start from the cave...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6b+ S1
28
Superwoman
100m+. Stunning climbing, weaving across the entire face of Diablo. This mini-expedition ventures to half-height in places, and...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+ S0