Surfing Bird Area

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
2 mins
Level
Dry in the Rain

This left (west) end of the crag provides a good selection of grades, and the finish of the girdle of Superwoman. The rock here offers an incredible number of huge pockets and buckets. Guidebook page 242.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Italian Job
Grossly bulging territory for the grade; how big can handholds get? Climb the wall and then the overhanging ground on the left...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Strong
6b S1
2
Swing Both Ways
A harder alternative to the above route, swinging right on to slightly more powerful ground in the bulging mid-section. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c S1
3
Surfing Bird
The first of local activist Miquel Riera's original lines. From the lower ledge take the red/cream streak up through bold...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b S1
4
Blue Tuna
A great slice of climbing. Reach it either by a low, tricky traverse in from the left, or by dry-bagging into the cave. From...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S2
5
Let's Have It!
This ace test-piece is just about horizontal. Start in the centre of the low/left sea level cave, the very edge of the water...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c+ S2
6
Iguanodon
A mega-classic. Takes the silly-steep ground to the right of the last route, heading leftwards along a huge, juggy rail. As...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b S0
7
Microdot
This extension to the lower routes gives some high and feisty moves, pulling through into the top recess. For the brave only.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7b S3
8
Dancing Fool
Climb the wall to the right of the cave until you reach a horizontal crack. Now continue slightly leftwards with long powerful...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7c S2
9
Beware of Limbo Dancers
From the top of Iguanodon, traverse rightwards and use small holds to gain a crack-system. The bouldery crux comes on the...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a+ S2
10
Surfing in the Bar
Attack the steep wall a metre or so to the right of Sunshine to a sit-down rest in the cave. From here, an airy finale up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7a S2
11
Hip Hop
The streaked wall up and left of the big cave. Climb the left edge of the cave, and sprint to the top.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
7b+ S2
12
Surfer Dead
A great route. Negotiate the right-hand edge of the big central cave, then go rightwards up the very steep top face - keep well...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
6c+ S2