Adjacent Areas
< Nettle Buttress | Two Tier - Centre >
Sport
Evening sun
Up and Down
20 minsSeepage
The tall left-hand side of Two Tier Buttress contains some great long sport routes. The far left-hand side is becoming somewhat overgrown but the main Open Gate Wall has some fine rock above the break. Several eliminates and filler-in routes have been added around the long corner of Thoth. Guidebook page 165.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Home From Home Now overgrown. If cleaned then start on the left-hand side of the wall. Move up and right, below a bolt, to a ledge and flake.... 1 user comment | Crimpy | E5 6b |
2 |
Another Brick in the Wall The left-hand bolt line. The second bolt is twinned. | Strong | 7b+ |
3 |
Osher, Osher, Osher Tackle the lower bulge from the right. Finish at a tree.There is a project to the right. | Crimpy | 7a+ |
4 |
The Bride and the Groom After the bulging start, things get easier above. | 1 Stars | 6c+ |
5 |
The Burqa King Another steep start then the undulating wall above. | Strong | 7b |
6 |
The Incredible Pierre From the right-hand end of the ledge, move up and make hard moves to gain a tricky slab finish. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7a+ |
7 |
Short Sharp Shock Desperate technical climbing which keeps shedding holds. The current best line is to move right after the 3rd bolt on the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
8 |
Poor Dill Good climbing past a glued-on hold. A long left arm helps and it is easier for the tall. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 7c |
9 |
Open Gate Top 50 A superb route which, despite being rebolted, is still a scary proposition. The lower crack is straightforward but the upper... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | 7a+ |
10 |
Case Adjourned A great climb, again with a final scary run-out which may make it feel like an E5. After a fingery start, continue more easily... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded Fluttery | 7a |
11 |
Smelting Point A poor route when compared to its neighbours. Climb straight up the left-hand side of the open groove of Thoth, then span out... | Crimpy | 6c |
12 |
Thoth Two pitches up the lower corner and upper flake.1) 5b, 15m. The corner to the break. Move right to belay.2) 5a, 15m.... | E1 5b | |
13 |
Cockerel Cry Climb directly up the line right of the corner, over two bulging sections, finishing high on the buttress. | 1 Stars Loose | 6c+ |
14 |
Jackson's Browned Off A short route up the wall above the raised ledge. Clip the first bolt (tricky) then swing out right and up before stepping back... | Reachy | 6c |
15 |
Just Pullet The upper wall above Systems Malfunction has a barn-door crux move to a huge hold. (Hint: this route was constructed by a tall... | Reachy Crimpy | 7a+ |
16 |
Evidently Chickentown The desperate wall and thin crack. Climb left of the bolts above the break, then move right. The star is for the position, not... | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
17 |
Running on Empty 12m. A curious route which sees no ascents these days and has effectively been retroed. Originally it was soloed but there is... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
18 |
Poultry in Motion Move right from the belay and attack the bulge. | Crimpy | 7b+ |
19 |
Offal 20m. An outdated and wandering line that sees few ascents. Start up the open scoop past two bolts then traverse right on... | Fluttery | E3 6a |
20 |
Ghee Force Direct above the starting groove, past a bolt. | Technical | E4 6b |
21 |
Isolate 20m. Reasonable technical climbing on the lower wall but it wanders off rightwards higher up. Climb the short (desperate)... | Technical Crimpy | E4 6b |
22 |
Nerefaun The first attempt to climb the corner ended in an escape rightwards up the rounded arete. | E5 6c | |
23 |
Stolen Fruit A bizarre historical relic which starts up Isolate then traverses right across to the finish of EntrZe. | E5 6b | |
