Adjacent Areas
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Sun and Shade
Uphill
15 minsFurther into the woods is this lovely selection of climbs, based around the open corner of Piccolo. The rock is good and holds are often generous, if a bit fingery. All the routes are worth doing. If you intend to top out BEWARE the mossy, pine needle-ridden finishes. Guidebook page 336.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Greensleaves 10m. The jamming crack on the left leads to a floral exit. A good one to practice the dark art on. | 1 Stars | S 4b |
2 |
The Missing Link 9m. The disjointed crack systems give another worthwhile gem. | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
3 |
Stirring up Trouble 9m. The left arete of the bay has a steep start, until the holds lead round to the left to reach a balancy finish. | 1 Stars Crimpy | E3 5c |
4 |
Trouble Shooter 10m. The face midway between the arete and The Flutings gives a good technical and fingery pitch. Finish up the solitary... | 2 Stars Crimpy | E3 6a |
5 |
The Flutings Direct 11m. A fine climb up the twin runnels in the centre of the left-hand wall of the recess. The lower section is the hard,... | 2 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
6 |
Piccolo 11m. The main angle gives a good bridging pitch - straightforward but nice and steep at the grade. | 2 Stars Graunchy | S 4a |
7 |
Verticality 12m. Climb the smooth-looking wall right of the corner direct to the break. Pull through the bulges and finish (carefully) into... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E1 5a |
8 |
Zed Climb 12m. A zig-zagging line up the right-slanting crack, then back left under the roof and finally back out right to finish. | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
9 |
The Harp 10m. A good route, and quite pumpy despite its brevity. Start up the fingery wall to reach the left-hand end of the handrail... | 3 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
10 |
Orpheus 10m. A counter diagonal to The Harp. Climb the crinkly wall to The Harp's hand-traverse, then pull through to reach the flake... | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E3 5c |
11 |
The Nadser The side wall of the buttress around to the right is climbed on tiny holds by some quality moves. Fontesque. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | V6 6c |
