Highcliff Nab

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Trad
No sun
20 mins
Uphill

The best routes at Highcliff are technical and bold wall climbs with the prominent arete of Magic in the Air being the showpiece of the crag. The walls to either side of this arete have been tackled by various routes over the years, often climbed in separate halves, or with high side runners, but now moistly done direct and in a pure style. For slightly more amenable challenge Scarecrow Crack is the one to head for and there are also a few good easier routes towards the right-hand side of the crag.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Wombat
16m. The imposing corner is approached via the slab and gives a beefy, well protected pitch. The exit is inclined to be grassy.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
2
Trampled Underfoot
22m. A good strenuous outing which links Wombat with the finish of Magic in the Air via a tough traverse under the roofs.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
Esmerelda Top 50
20m. An astounding route that follows the old bolt holes up the steep side wall of the buttress. Technically hard climbing and...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
4
Magic in the Air Top 50
20m. The superb, bold and technical arete is the best route on the cliff and maybe in the whole area. Follow the arete on its...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
5
Desperate Den Top 50
20m. Start at a carved cross and make desperate moves up the wall to reach holds and runners on Stargazer, finish up the wall...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
6
Stargazer Top 50
20m. Devious but excellent. Start up Scarecrow Crack and traverse out left on good holds in the break. Use small edges to pull...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
7
Scarecrow Crack Top 50
20m. The wide twisting crack is the best line on the cliff and it gives a suitably impressive tussle. Laybacking or offwidth...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E1 5b
8
Puffs Parade
20m. The blunt rib is climbed on spaced holds - bold! Finish up Scarecrow Crack, or rightwards up Queer Street.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5c
9
Moonflower Super Direct Top 50
20m. Start right of the initials and balance up the blunt rib to its top (small wires out left). Step left onto the large ledge...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
Queer Street Top 50
22m. Climb the flake right of the arete then pull left onto the wall, and head under the overhang to access the shallow groove...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
11
Highcliff Crack Top 50
20m. The fine groove was one of the first routes on the cliff and remains well worth doing. It is awkward in places but well...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
S 4b
12
Rockhopper
18m. Just to the right of Highcliff Crack, climb the rib rightwards to ledges. Step right and climb the steep and bold arete.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E3 5b
13
Flake Crack
18m. The deep groove gives a good pitch - powerful, sustained and a lot better than it looks. Bridge, jam and haul on those...
 
1 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
14
Heart Throb Crack
18m. The wide crack is guaranteed to get the pulse rate up. An awkward start leads to a niche and then ledges. The chockstone...
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4c
15
Highcliff Chimney Direct
16m. Squirm the narrow chimney direct. A finish up the right arete is nicer but avoids part of the real challenge.
 
Graunchy
S 4a
16
Highcliff Chimney - Ordinary
18m. Start up the groove in the arete and climb it to ledges which lead left to the chimney. Continue up this passing the...
 VD
17
Scarface
12m. The thin crack in the upper wall.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
18
North West Route
20m. Climb a tricky groove and slab rightwards to a small ledge on the arete. Move around the corner (stay high) then move...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVD 4a
19
North West Direct
12m. Climb sandy rock to jugs then the thin crack to the exposed corner on North West Route. Finish up the thin crack in the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c