Adjacent Areas
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No sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
The best routes at Highcliff are technical and bold wall climbs with the prominent arete of Magic in the Air being the showpiece of the crag. The walls to either side of this arete have been tackled by various routes over the years, often climbed in separate halves, or with high side runners, but now moistly done direct and in a pure style. For slightly more amenable challenge Scarecrow Crack is the one to head for and there are also a few good easier routes towards the right-hand side of the crag. Guidebook page 228.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Wombat 16m. The imposing corner is approached via the slab and gives a beefy, well protected pitch. The exit is inclined to be grassy. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
2 |
Trampled Underfoot 22m. A good strenuous outing which links Wombat with the finish of Magic in the Air via a tough traverse under the roofs. | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
3 |
Esmerelda Top 50 20m. An astounding route that follows the old bolt holes up the steep side wall of the buttress. Technically hard climbing and... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E7 6c |
4 |
Magic in the Air Top 50 20m. The superb, bold and technical arete is the best route on the cliff and maybe in the whole area. Follow the arete on its... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
5 |
Desperate Den Top 50 20m. Start at a carved cross and make desperate moves up the wall to reach holds and runners on Stargazer, finish up the wall... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
6 |
Stargazer Top 50 20m. Devious but excellent. Start up Scarecrow Crack and traverse out left on good holds in the break. Use small edges to pull... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Crimpy | E3 5c |
7 |
Scarecrow Crack Top 50 20m. The wide twisting crack is the best line on the cliff and it gives a suitably impressive tussle. Laybacking or offwidth... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | E1 5b |
8 |
Puffs Parade 20m. The blunt rib is climbed on spaced holds - bold! Finish up Scarecrow Crack, or rightwards up Queer Street. | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E1 5c |
9 |
Moonflower Super Direct Top 50 20m. Start right of the initials and balance up the blunt rib to its top (small wires out left). Step left onto the large ledge... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
Queer Street Top 50 22m. Climb the flake right of the arete then pull left onto the wall, and head under the overhang to access the shallow groove... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
11 |
Highcliff Crack Top 50 20m. The fine groove was one of the first routes on the cliff and remains well worth doing. It is awkward in places but well... | 3 Stars Pumpy | S 4b |
12 |
Rockhopper 18m. Just to the right of Highcliff Crack, climb the rib rightwards to ledges. Step right and climb the steep and bold arete. | Rounded Fluttery | E3 5b |
13 |
Flake Crack 18m. The deep groove gives a good pitch - powerful, sustained and a lot better than it looks. Bridge, jam and haul on those... | 1 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
14 |
Heart Throb Crack 18m. The wide crack is guaranteed to get the pulse rate up. An awkward start leads to a niche and then ledges. The chockstone... | 1 Stars Graunchy | HS 4c |
15 |
Highcliff Chimney Direct 16m. Squirm the narrow chimney direct. A finish up the right arete is nicer but avoids part of the real challenge. | Graunchy | S 4a |
16 |
Highcliff Chimney - Ordinary 18m. Start up the groove in the arete and climb it to ledges which lead left to the chimney. Continue up this passing the... | VD | |
17 |
Scarface 12m. The thin crack in the upper wall. | Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
18 |
North West Route 20m. Climb a tricky groove and slab rightwards to a small ledge on the arete. Move around the corner (stay high) then move... | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVD 4a |
19 |
North West Direct 12m. Climb sandy rock to jugs then the thin crack to the exposed corner on North West Route. Finish up the thin crack in the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |
