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Morning sun
Uphill
10 minsThe routes generally are short and sharp and protection is lacking on many of the climbs, although there are some cracks that give the odd runner. Belaying on top of the block requires a bit of ingenuity. Guidebook page 302.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Cape Horn 10m. The slabs on the left-hand side of the east face are climbed trending leftwards to finish up the arete. Unprotected and... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | VS 4c |
2 |
Tourist Route 7m. The ramp and then the line of chipped buckets is the easiest way up (and down) the block. Unprotected. | 1 Stars Rounded | M |
3 |
Garden Hoe 7m. Head up the slab on a series of rounded holds. | Rounded Fluttery | VS 4b |
4 |
Plymouth Hoe 7m. The finger-crack gives the best line on the boulder. | 2 Stars Crimpy | S 4a |
5 |
Pieces of Eight 7m. The rounded arete is climbed until a move left gains the top. Worthwhile but serious and originally graded Hard Severe! 2 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | HVS 5b |
6 |
Good Hope 7m. The left arete of the west face is tricky - another serious one. | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5b |
7 |
Sol Pelicanos 8m. The flake in the upper part of the wall is gained from the break which is accessed by a short traverse from the arete. | Reachy | E2 5b |
8 |
The Pelican 8m. The right-hand side of the face has a tough start then eases. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Hispaniola 10m. The left arete leads to runners in the break, head up the wall to finish. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
10 |
The Golden Hind 10m. Climb the fingery wall and shallow groove to a finish up the fluted slab. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | VS 5a |
11 |
Lubbers' Hole 14m. Devious but excellent. Start up the thin crack of Sir Francis then traverse the break leftwards to the groove of The... | 2 Stars Pumpy | S 4a |
12 |
Sir Francis Top 50 10m. A fine climb up the crack and bold wall above. From the top of the crack trend slightly rightwards - a small flake helps. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E3 5c |
13 |
Rhumba 10m. From the diagonal overlap, trend left to the break, then direct to holds in a higher break. Trend boldly rightwards to... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
14 |
Powder Monkey 10m. The right-hand side of the south face is climbed rightwards then back left on spaced holds to reach a creaky flake and a... | Reachy Fluttery | E4 5c |
