Main Edge Boulders

Boulder
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Walking up the path towards the Main Edge an array of boulders soon appears through the trees. Three of these are large enough to offer both routes and bouldering. Guidebook page 92.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Twin Pockets
Around the arete, step off a boulder and move right to gain a hole.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
2
Scary Canary
The line just right of the blunt arete becomes more harrowing with height, hence the name.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V8 7B+
3
Sucker's Rib
The blunt rib is V0+ without the chipped holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V0 4c
4
Sucker's Wall
The line of chips to the left of the arete are very polished.
 VB 4a
5
The Pinch
The right-hand side wall via a tiny ledge and the eponymous hold. Missing the pinch hold by a long dyno is worth V8.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V5 6C
6
Pocket Rock
The back arete climbed on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V4 6B
7
Rick's Rock
8m. Thin climbing up the wall using some chipped holds.
 
Fluttery
E4 6b
8
Black Jumper
8m. Stretch or leap from the block to reach the first decent hold on the arete and then continue up it. The landing is grim.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
9
Black Jumper Indirect
Thin moves up the wall leftwards to the arete. Jump off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V8 7B+
10
Boot Crack
8m. The wide fissure.
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4b
11
Shoe Shine
8m. The bold feeling right-hand arete following the almost inevitable line of chipped holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 4b
12
Angel's Wall
Swing right then climb the centre of the narrow wall to an exciting finish over the bulge that caps it.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
V1 5b
13
Angel's Wing
Steep climbing that parallels the right edge of the wall without actually using it, to the final bulge of Angel's Wall.
 
Fluttery
V3 6A
14
Plantation Ridge
8m. The left arete of the north face is accessed from round to the left and gives pleasant moves.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
15
Plantation Wall
8m. Pad up the face and over the bulges a short distance right of the arete (use of which is taboo) to finish up the slab.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
16
The Can
8m. The centre of the face has tricky and bold feeling moves passing the mid-height bulges rightwards.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
17
Central Route
8m. Follow the cracks to their end, balance left into the thinner continuation then finish to the right, where this ends.
 
2 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 5a
18
The Cavity
Steep pulls left of the arete gain Sweet Tooth.
 
Technical
V3 6A
19
Sweet Tooth
8m. The arete. Start from a block on the right and climb to the break where the slabby face can be accessed. From the break...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
20
Route 3
The left-hand side of the south west face is juggy to the last move where an elusive pocket round the arete aids the finish.
 
1 Stars
VB 4a
21
Route 2
The centre of the face on a fine array of holds.
 
2 Stars
VB 4a
22
Route 1
Sprint up the awkward right-leaning crack to the arete.
 
1 Stars
V0- 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For CALEY

    Angel's Wall
    "Not in any way a boulder problem - why change from HVS 5a?" 28/Mar

    Gary Cooper
    "Originally soled and given a grade of HVS!" 20/Jun

    Tippling Crack
    "Terrible." 18/Jul

    High Noon
    "I recall that Track of the Cat was described as best of all that is wicked on gr..." 04/Jan top50

    Tip Off
    "A nice solo. technical moves off the ledge. a better version of teli at stanage ..." 05/Nov

    High Noon
    "never e4 in a million years!" 29/Aug top50

    Holly Tree Scoop
    "The left hand finish up the chimney crack is good and worth a star, the finish u..." 16/Jul

    High Noon
    "Its a brilliant route and if NOT inspected and is sight led, I think it is worth..." 09/Feb top50

    Fred Zinnerman
    "it would appear the bolt is no-longer there, it might want changing before publi..." 14/Sep

    Noonday Ridge
    "Make sure upper slab is clean as it can get very wet in winter." 12/Sep

    High Noon
    "I don't think the upgrading of such a testpiece is justified. This is one of tho..." 12/Sep top50

    High Noon
    "What a route! It feels higher, more exposed and more scary than it realy is..cla..." 07/Jan top50

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