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No sun

Downhill

25 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

a Access - This buttress is in the wildlife reserve managed by D

The name doesn't inspire, but the buttress is worth a visit in hot weather. Summer Wine is the classic route but the powerful Stung receives more attention. Guidebook page 162.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Snail Mail A disjointed route up the sidewall with a steep little start.		6b
2	Personal Voyage 30m left of Nettle buttress. The right-hand bolted line.		7a
3	Harmonious Harmonica A very poor climb up the arete.		6c
4	Symmetrical Systems The left-hand side of the scoop is steeper than it looks.		6b
5	Balanced Ballistics The right-hand side of the scoop to a blind finish.	Technical	6b
6	Back to Basics 30m left of Nettle buttress. The left-hand bolted line.		6c+
7	Suryanamasker The hanging groove has yet to be tidied up.		E5 6b
8	Totonic 8m. At the time of writing the crumbling roof has one hard move. By the time you read this it may well have fallen down.	Strong Loose	7a+
9	Long Dead Train The rounded arete gives a good fingery route starting from Suryanamasker. The direct start is a hard problem making the route a...	1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy	7b
10	Stuffed Badger A technical pitch up the blank wall, past a bolt, to the big groove which has adequate protection. Start from Suryanamasker for...	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	E5 6b
11	Schickster groove The corner.		E1 5c
12	Summer Wine A recently cleaned classic. The upper wall is usually reached from the block on the right (although there is a desperate direct...	3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	E5 6a
13	First Light Good balancy climbing up the vague ramp-line starting from the top of the block. Unaffected by more recent additions.	2 Stars Technical	E2 5b
14	Epidavros A good counter diagonal to First Light with two tricky sections split by a good rest. The nervous might want a wire for the...	1 Stars	6b+
15	Light Ideas The line of glue-ins before the corner is much steeper than it looks and is really fiddly near the top with few positive holds.	1 Stars Crimpy	6c
16	Stravandrabellagola The left-hand side of the roof. One powerful snatch on the lip for the tall, the rest move left and heel-hook the lip at 7b+. 1 user comment	1 Stars Reachy Strong	7b
17	The Eve Syndrome The groove to the right of Summer Wine has a single bolt to protect the hard bit.	1 Stars Technical	E5 6c
18	Esmerelda Start under the widest part of the roof and follow the pillar to the break. Make a series of large spans (or powerful moves)... 3 user comments	1 Stars Reachy Technical Strong	7b+
19	Esmerunga Up Esmerelda to the good jug on the lip. Move up and right as for Stung. The hardest (and best?) way up the buttress.	2 Stars Technical	7c
20	Stung Start as for Esmerelda, but trend right to the break and a rest on the right. Traverse strenuously back left along the lip then... 8 user comments	2 Stars Strong	7b+
21	General Incompetance The slim groove on the right-hand side of the wall gives this route which was well ahead of its time in 1984. There is some...	2 Stars Fluttery	E7 6b
22	Toys for the Boys A fine route that now sees plenty of traffic. Climb the wall left of the corner of No Light. 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	7c+
23	No Light An excellent trad route up the corner. Much pumpier than it looks with the crux at the top. Becoming vegetated.	2 Stars Pumpy	E3 5c
24	Subterra Climb the fingery pillar to a technical finish. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical	7b
25	Rob's Dilemma The grotty corner with the direct start. It is possible to slink in from the left at VS 4c.		HVS 5b
26	Terra Incognita A steep and attractive line up the scoops in the wall. Destined to become a neglected relic but as good as the others here. 1 user comment	2 Stars Pumpy	E5 6b
27	Gobblin' Women The steep wall and groove above a hard start.	Technical	6b+
28	Little Girl Eater/Fish-u-Like Climb past the flying fin and up a short, slabby wall.		6b
29	Fishlock The middle scoop-line. Dirty at the bottom and precarious in the middle but with a nice move or two.	1 Stars Crimpy	6b+
30	Major Incontinence The original line passed a lone bolt on the wall to the right before gaining the flake.		7b+
31	Kakaho The slightly larger groove-line is an easier proposition with just one tricky move near the top.		6a+
32	Cock-a-hoop Up a short groove to a headwall.		6a
33	Bursting Out A fingery, white scoop, finishing leftwards.	1 Stars Technical	6c
34	Little Girl Eater A friable lower wall leads to the break. Above this tackle the groove.	Technical	6b+
35	Fish-U-Like The left-hand of two lines via a prominant edge.		6b

Nettle Buttress

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