Nettle Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< The Nook  |  Two Tier - Left >

Sport
No sun
Downhill
25 mins
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

a Access - This buttress is in the wildlife reserve managed by D


The name doesn't inspire, but the buttress is worth a visit in hot weather. Summer Wine is the classic route but the powerful Stung receives more attention. Guidebook page 162.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Snail Mail
A disjointed route up the sidewall with a steep little start.
 6b
2
Personal Voyage
30m left of Nettle buttress. The right-hand bolted line.
 7a
3
Harmonious Harmonica
A very poor climb up the arete.
 6c
4
Symmetrical Systems
The left-hand side of the scoop is steeper than it looks.
 6b
5
Balanced Ballistics
The right-hand side of the scoop to a blind finish.
 
Technical
6b
6
Back to Basics
30m left of Nettle buttress. The left-hand bolted line.
 6c+
7
Suryanamasker
The hanging groove has yet to be tidied up.
 E5 6b
8
Totonic
8m. At the time of writing the crumbling roof has one hard move. By the time you read this it may well have fallen down.
 
Strong
Loose
7a+
9
Long Dead Train
The rounded arete gives a good fingery route starting from Suryanamasker. The direct start is a hard problem making the route a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
10
Stuffed Badger
A technical pitch up the blank wall, past a bolt, to the big groove which has adequate protection. Start from Suryanamasker for...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
11
Schickster groove
The corner.
 E1 5c
12
Summer Wine
A recently cleaned classic. The upper wall is usually reached from the block on the right (although there is a desperate direct...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
13
First Light
Good balancy climbing up the vague ramp-line starting from the top of the block. Unaffected by more recent additions.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
14
Epidavros
A good counter diagonal to First Light with two tricky sections split by a good rest. The nervous might want a wire for the...
 
1 Stars
6b+
15
Light Ideas
The line of glue-ins before the corner is much steeper than it looks and is really fiddly near the top with few positive holds.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
16
Stravandrabellagola
The left-hand side of the roof. One powerful snatch on the lip for the tall, the rest move left and heel-hook the lip at 7b+.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b
17
The Eve Syndrome
The groove to the right of Summer Wine has a single bolt to protect the hard bit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
18
Esmerelda
Start under the widest part of the roof and follow the pillar to the break. Make a series of large spans (or powerful moves)...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Strong
7b+
19
Esmerunga
Up Esmerelda to the good jug on the lip. Move up and right as for Stung. The hardest (and best?) way up the buttress.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
20
Stung
Start as for Esmerelda, but trend right to the break and a rest on the right. Traverse strenuously back left along the lip then...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
21
General Incompetance
The slim groove on the right-hand side of the wall gives this route which was well ahead of its time in 1984. There is some...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E7 6b
22
Toys for the Boys
A fine route that now sees plenty of traffic. Climb the wall left of the corner of No Light.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
23
No Light
An excellent trad route up the corner. Much pumpier than it looks with the crux at the top. Becoming vegetated.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
24
Subterra
Climb the fingery pillar to a technical finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
25
Rob's Dilemma
The grotty corner with the direct start. It is possible to slink in from the left at VS 4c.
 HVS 5b
26
Terra Incognita
A steep and attractive line up the scoops in the wall. Destined to become a neglected relic but as good as the others here.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
27
Gobblin' Women
The steep wall and groove above a hard start.
 
Technical
6b+
28
Little Girl Eater/Fish-u-Like
Climb past the flying fin and up a short, slabby wall.
 6b
29
Fishlock
The middle scoop-line. Dirty at the bottom and precarious in the middle but with a nice move or two.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
30
Major Incontinence
The original line passed a lone bolt on the wall to the right before gaining the flake.
 7b+
31
Kakaho
The slightly larger groove-line is an easier proposition with just one tricky move near the top.
1 user comment
 6a+
32
Cock-a-hoop
Up a short groove to a headwall.
 6a
33
Bursting Out
A fingery, white scoop, finishing leftwards.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
34
Little Girl Eater
A friable lower wall leads to the break. Above this tackle the groove.
 
Technical
6b+
35
Fish-U-Like
The left-hand of two lines via a prominant edge.
 6b
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHEE DALE UPPER

    Kakaho
    "Not easy to determine the line of this based on the 2004 guide. The features are..." 18/Jul

    No Hiding Plaice
    "Great climbing all the way" 21/Aug

    Lightweight
    "The traverse at the top is the hard part and very good, hard to know what sequen..." 30/May

    Spank Me Senseless with a Wet Herring
    "A lovely little route. Little-used so bring a trowel." 11/May

    Max-a-Million
    "just jump." 03/Aug

    Unzipping the Wild Physique
    "Bizzare route! Either belay miles back on a small tree or just sit behind the wa..." 26/Jul

    The Lockless Monster
    "7c/+. Great bouldery route." 24/Jul

    Stung
    "A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, gra..." 08/Jul

    Black Max
    "Actually a pretty good route and makes the best warm up. Can clip bolts on other..." 26/May

    Poor Dill
    "Borderline 7c - great crux sequence over the bulge though." 25/May

    Quality Control
    "Really enjoyable route on good rock with a nice variation in the moves, from pow..." 05/May

    Sirplum
    "Well one of the best climbs I ever done pumpy but keep going and you soon be at ..." 25/Jul top50

    Max-a-Million
    "I have a 5"10 span and can just reach the good crimp below the jug! You nee..." 11/Jul

    Kiss Me Hardy
    "I cleaned the holds on this and climbed it a couple of days ago. Well worth gett..." 04/Jun

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "Did Mad Dogs yesterday - a totally brilliant adventure, didn't clip or see any b..." 05/May

    Sturgeon in the Cupboard
    "Good climb. Not that polished. No way is it 7c though." 05/Oct top50

    Spazz Energy
    "Hard start for shorties like me. Quite varied but take care on the first overlap..." 13/Sep

    Waste Bin
    "Pretty good route although a bit scrappy to start. Groove is surprisingly tricky..." 10/Sep

    Aberration
    "Intense climbing but memory counts for little; the best holds have fallen off ev..." 06/Sep

    Aplomb
    "Covers some impresive ground for the lowly grade. Pitch 2 was the hardest to lea..." 02/Aug

    Aberration
    "Upper 2 pegs replaced with bolts 07/09. Lower off added too." 29/Jul

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "Good effort in getting your project done mike. I climbed mad dogs yesterday and ..." 26/Jul

    Mad Dogs and Englishmen
    "The peg on this route is unsafe and needs replacing.mike p" 14/Jul

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