Butterfly Crack

Adjacent Areas
< Little Greeny  |  Earl Buttress >

Trad
No sun
Uphill
8 mins

About 100m right of Little Greeny is a diagonal track and a wall, just beyond these is a buttress with a prominent central groove with a shot-holed wall to its right. Guidebook page 65.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Green Rib
The rib is climbed on its right-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V3 6a
2
Green Rib Right-hand
Use pockets and edges to gain the arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
V5 6b
3
Slim Shady
The thin wall to a break. Jump off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V11
4
Butterfly Crack
8m. The tough crack in the angle. Despite the name, front crawl is an altogether better technique.
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 4c
5
Superfly
The arete and shot-holes are often dirty. The wall to the left is the neglected Butterfly Wall which is around V7 when clean.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
V8
6
Shothole Ridge
8m. Gain it with difficulty then follow the slab leftwards - a bit bold - to a finish up the left-hand arete. Variations are...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For EARL CRAG

    Earl Buttress
    "What the hell is going on? A soft touch with pleasant climbing on Yorkshire grit..." 10/Jul

    Mousehole Slab
    "HVS 4c - pretty nasty sandbag at VS and could hurt someone. The move to get your..." 21/Aug

    Earl Crack
    "Big friends required lower down. Good old fashioned VS with some tidy runouts be..." 07/Jun

    Erasor Slab
    "A Pex Hill 5b move!" 03/Aug

    Mousehole Slab
    "It is rather like a mini TPS. Just like TPS it gets overgraded by some too: U..." 01/Jun

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