Cornice

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
No sun
18 mins
Up and Down
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The Cornice is one of the most impressive bits of rock in the Peak, although in winter, it is difficult to see that it will ever give any dry climbing. When dry, the routes here give some great challenges.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Ophelias Lobelia
Poor route starting from the 8th stepping stone. Bolt and thread protect but it needs more gear.
 7b+
2
Forehead Trombone
Start from the second stepping stone and follow a flake to a roof. Pulling over this gives the hard crux. Lower-off on the...
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
3
Sharp Practice
Start from the 1st stepping stone and climb to good holds by the 1st bolt. Make a desperate slopy pull and then attempt to gain...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
4
Masculine Power Trip
A power problem up the steep seam in the lower wall leaves you below the bulges. Crank this for the full tick. Usually dirty.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
5
Mescaline Power Trip
Another desperate start, or use stones and/or the first bolt to gain a finger edge, then start climbing. The rock-over onto the...
 
2 Stars
Strong
8a
6
Wright-On
Another route which was started by sitting on the first bolt although this one has been bouldered out upping the grade to 8a....
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
7
Taylor Made
Start up the groove to a rest below the roof (high first bolt). Push on over the roof before making a tricky traverse left. A...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
8
Wright to Left
A rising traverse that follows the overhanging groove-line crossing the previous three routes to the lower-off on Sharp...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
9
Feminine Ego Trip
Start as for Taylor Made to the rest in the groove. Hard moves on undercuts are needed to gain the hollow flake. There is no...
 
Reachy
Strong
8a
10
Monumental Armblaster
One of the best lines in the Peak up the monumental diagonal groove. The climbing is hard and sustained with plenty of knee...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
11
Nemesis
From kneebars on Monumental, move left to a sika'd crimp, then make powerful moves up and then left to gain a sika'd boss. Move...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
12
Clematis
A left-hand finish to Nemesis. Jugs on top of the crag must be held before reaching down to a lower-off bolt.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
13
Bricktop
A fine direct finish to Nemesis. Climb direct up the steep wall after the hard start, finishing up the final part of Malcolm X.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
14
Malcolm X
A counter diagonal line to Monumental with fewer knee bars and significantly harder moves. Start up Last Eggs then break left...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
15
Last Eggs Before the M1
Half a route which still awaits an extension. It includes the start of Malcolm X.
 
Strong
7c+
16
Gran Techo
Climb the wall left of Jug Jockey via dynamic moves to the roof. An improbable sequence and seemingly impossible reaches lead...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b
17
Techno Prisoners
A super reachy finish up the wall above the roof of Gran Techo.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
8b+
18
The Jug Jockey
A roof climb tackling the obvious weakness in the centre of the long roof. Climb the lower wall through a right curving overlap...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
19
Easy Rider
From the roof of Jug Jockey, follow the hollow break rightwards until large undercuts and other holds deposit you on the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
20
Dreadnaught
The hardest roof climb in the Peak, tackling the roof at an unobvious weakness. A big ring bolt in the roof marks the line. An...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
21
The Roof Warrior
A superb route with three hard sections. The tricky lower wall leads to a shake-out at the roof. Gaining a good hold in the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
22
Cry of Despair
Follow the steep wall to the weakness through the right end of the large roof. The crux is on the bottom wall but many fall off...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
23
That was the River
An energy-sapping pitch featuring a very tough move to get established on the line of undercuts. From a good jug halfway,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
24
Rapid City
A fine climb which would only be 7c if you didn't have to do the powerful start of That was the River. After the start follow...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
25
Streamline
A poor route crossing That was the River, sadly it keeps losing holds. The hard moves may be unclimbable now.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
7c+
26
This is the Sea
The direct start to That was the River is a contrast. One hard move proves to be the only barrier to success; it is very...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
27
Old Man River
The 1st of the routes up the River via a prominent blunt flake. Crossing the first bulge is tricky. The flake gives a shake-out...
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
28
Up the River Without a Paddle
An unlikely climb which is seldom dry but proves popular when in condition. Pull over the first overhang to a shake, then...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
29
The Naive and Sentimental Lover
Start up the River Without a Paddle but break left from the niche above the roof to a flake-line; difficult. A higher method is...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b+
30
Snails of the Riverbank
The direct that has two hard roofs. The first requires a fingery pull and the second seems very unlikely until you go for it.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
7b
31
The Spiders from Mars
A poor route with some loose rock. Cross the roofs at a step in the overhangs and plough on up to the lower-off.
1 user comment
 
Loose
6b
32
Rue Morgue
Forgotten line now superseded by its bolted neighbours. Started to the right but finishes as for Gardener's Question Time.
 E4 6a
33
The Monday Club
A dirty start leads to the better top wall. Both overlaps prove tricky to cross.
 
Technical
7a+
34
Trampled Underfoot
A devious route which winds through the roofs to an excellent finish. From Monday Club move out right under the roof and make a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
35
Gardener's Question Time
Start left of a leaning block and climb the wall past two hard sections to the roof. Heave over this and finish up the wall...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
7a
36
The Goldfish
Climb the wall then move up right to a notch in the main roof. Pull up and around the roof and finish up the rounded slab.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a+
37
Crowd Control
A stopper move at the roof and a superb rounded finish. If you can't hack the roof crux, then tag the upper wall onto Une Crime...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
7c
38
After the Goldfish
22m. Start up Crowd Control and traverse left under the main roof. Pull up and around the roof and finish up the rounded slab...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
7a+
39
Une Crime Passionel
One of the few trad routes on the Cornice that gets ascents. Start up an open groove to a bolt. Climb past this to a bulge then...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4 6a
40
Fey
A good line but usually dirty from neglect. The upper section gets done as part of War Memorial.A Basic Power Problem, E6...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
41
A Basic Power Problem
Dangerous line direct over the bulge left of Fey.
 E6 6b
42
War Memorial
A route with some good face climbing. A large cam or wire might be needed for the top but the climbing is easy.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
43
Succubus
A filler-in but with some good climbing. Hard to grade as the crux section is reachy, powerful and desperate, but it is quite...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
44
Shazam
A thin crack-line leads to a superb move into the top groove. Lower off from Martial Music. Seldom climbed.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
45
Martial Music
Neat climbing just right of the crack. Save something for the move across the top bulge, a common take-off point.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
46
Clarion Call Top 50
The first of a great trio, although the lower wall is beginning to suffer from polish. Probably the most popular climb on the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
47
Poppy Fields
Start up Armistice Day but pull over the bulge to its left. Up the technical wall on small edges, pull over the next bulge and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
48
Armistice Day Top 50
The central line has great climbing interspersed with good rests including a hands-off knee-bar before the final tricky wall.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
49
Whose Line is it Anyway? Top 50
The hardest of the trio. Start by going left via an undercut pocket, then traverse right before breaking back out left to a...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
50
Big Store
Seldom climbed these days but a worthy route with a decent line. Climb the groove to the bulge then pull left to finish up...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
51
Egyptian Bizarre
Direct finish to Big Store. Can be turned into a sport route by using a long sling on the first bolt above where Big Store goes...
 E5 6b
52
Big Zipper
Gives good independent climbing. Snake around the first bolts before heading straight to the right edge of the roof. Move up to...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
53
Beelzebub
Move left over the bulge from the rest on Big Zipper.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
54
Bored of the Lies Top 50
This product of an earlier age now appears to have an odd line, though there is a logic to it; worth doing. The lower wall is...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
55
Ouijaboard
An excellent route, more independent than it looks. Climb the wall 2m right of Bored on tiny holds, pockets and undercuts to...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
56
Four Door Dostoyevsky
The slim groove above the left-hand edge of the long bulging roof provides an elegant and desperate pitch. Gaining the groove...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
57
Powerplant
One of the best 8a's in the Peak with a powerful start, a tricky technical crux and a beautiful upper wall. The crux is...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
58
Devonshire Arms
Hard moves are needed to pass the third bolt and a soul-destroying stopper-sequence passing the fifth bolt.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
59
K3
A Peak classic. Lots of undercutting is needed to cross the bulges; it is hard all the way without ever being really...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
60
42
A powerful route breaking right out of K3 using a combination of undercuts and wild slaps. Neglected in recent years.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
61
32
Desperate moves through the bulges to join R'n'P.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b+
62
R'n'P
The best line here following the right-to-left diagonal through the bulges. The climbing is powerful through these then the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
63
Snatch
Desperately thin climbing direct up the smooth wall after the starting bulges of R'n'P.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
64
Barney Ragin'
A super-sustained pitch that links R'n'P with Love Amongst the Butterflies tackling the bulges via a good slot.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b+
65
Love Amongst the Butterflies
A technical nightmare. Start by pulling over onto the slab and a virtual hands-off rest. Crimp up the blankness above to an...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8b
66
Asia Shadow Player
A right-hand finish to Butterflies starting from its rest is more crimpy and technical than its parent, if that's possible.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8b
67
Somehow Super
Start up Love Amongst.. and climb direct up the desperate wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8c
68
Cosmopolitan
A fine climb. Climb up to a wide slot. Swing left then climb direct and slightly left to a stopping point. Step left and make...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
69
Unleashing the Wild Physique
One of the original routes here but now much harder due to loss of holds. Climb to the slot on Cosmopolitan then traverse left...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
70
Cordless Madness
A direct finish to Cosmopolitan with some fine climbing. Where Cosmo goes left mooch right on an undercut - poor footholds -...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
71
Mandy
From the right-hand end of the slot make a hard fingery pull up to a jug. Finish more easily up the wall and flake above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
72
Flowers in the Dirt
A disproportionately hard crux provides the main difficulties although the gap between bolts 3 and 4 may be worrying for some....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7b
73
The Third Order
A short-lived hard section to pass the niche followed by delicate climbing above. This section is particularly difficult when...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
74
Loco
Hard over the lower bulge, easier above.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b+
75
Too Pumpy for Grumpy
Direct over the bulges then up the wall past a small tree.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
7b+
76
Further Adventures in Greendale
The red wall left of a flake has a tricky clip or two. The easiest and most logical line heads straight for the lower-off....
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6c
77
Old Man's Gambit
Gain the hanging corner from below. Climb it and escape left at the top into the trees.
 
Loose
E2 5c
78
The Corniceman
The wall right of the flake, moving left over the bulge.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
79
Jelly Fingers
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 HVS 5a
80
Vandal
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 VS 4c
81
Whitebeam
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E1 5c
82
Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 HS 4a
83
Ezekiel Stool
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E1 5b
84
Um Bongo
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E4 6b
85
Led Up the Garden Path
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E1 5b
86
Flash Harry
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E4 5c
87
Too Jugless for Douglas
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E4 6b
88
Subversive
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E2 5b
89
Fibrin
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 VS 4c
90
Rinky Dinky
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E1 5c
91
The 'too small for the tall' Wall
Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.
 E5 6b
92
Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience
An isolated sport route in the wild bush to the right of the Cosmopolitan Wall. Three old bolts protect. Lower-off in the...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
93
Skin-flick
The impossible right-hand line of three old bolts. Still unrepeated 12 years later but then how many people have tried.
 
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
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  • Latest Comments

    For CHEE DALE LOWER

    Splintered Perspex
    "FA correction: John Fleming returned the next day to lead the route free." 05/Aug

    Of Youth
    "Not particularly low in the grade - it's solid 5c for from the tree up to the to..." 18/May

    Flycatcher
    "In the days when it had the hold/thread it was E1 5b. It certainly isn't now!" 22/Jul

    Une Crime Passionel
    "I cleaned this a couple of weeks ago. Good climbing all the way. Could finish le..." 26/Jun

    Clarion Call
    "Far too polished now to consider giving this 3 stars. If only I had been there i..." 29/May top50

    Ouijaboard
    "Harder than K3." 09/Oct

    Sergeyenna
    "How is this not an absolute classic? Better than Meditation!" 03/Sep

    Devonshire Arms
    "Great route! Ideally the 3rd bolt could do with being a bit lower." 23/Aug

    Whose Line is it Anyway?
    "Great route, I did this just after Jon had made the FA. Seems harder than I rem..." 27/Jul top50

    The Garlic Twist
    "Pretty dirty at the bulge but some good moves" 26/Jul

    Approaching
    "Good to hear I'm not the only one who'd give this E3! I don't think I got the cr..." 24/Jul

    Whose Line is it Anyway?
    "Crucial undercut between bolts 4 and 5 has now come off making route harder" 05/Jul top50

    Meditation
    "I thought the same, the hardest move is in the first half, the top is just a lit..." 04/Jun top50

    Clarion Call
    "Bolt 3 is back, apparently." 27/May top50

    White Gold
    "retrobolted (not by me) at 6c+." 25/May

    Clarion Call
    "Bolt 3 is now missing, so I guess it's not really climbable just now." 25/May top50

    Further Adventures in Greendale
    "The reachy symbol can only be for the top clip, which is only reachy if you try ..." 12/Sep

    Tec
    "The line looks OK but there is a huge fallen tree branch poised to fall down the..." 06/Sep

    Up the River Without a Paddle
    "Think a hold has dropped off the initial roof? Feels more like 7A. Harder than c..." 05/Sep

    Monumental Armblaster
    "I did (possibly) the 2nd ascent of this (on aid!). Jim Moran walked past just as..." 12/Aug

    Rapid City
    "Bolts recently renewed up to the roof. The band of rock on the lip of the roof a..." 03/Aug

    Approaching
    "Felt bold enough seconding this. The gear placed on the traverse was poor and fe..." 06/Jul

    Cosmopolitan
    "Largish flake removed yesterday. Makes getting into the final groove more diffic..." 18/Jun

    Cry of Despair
    "Gave this a scrub yesterday and then did it. Totally class, get on it whilst the..." 06/Jun

    42nd Street
    "3 star route. All the gear is bomber. There is a 'go for it' section without any..." 26/May

    Shake
    "Demanding. How about the sustained symbol?" 17/May

    Apocalypse
    "First pitch filthy again - May 2010. Only really an issue on the crux so take a ..." 17/May

    Great Central Route
    "A great route. I did it in 1 big 40pitch, the lower hvs is not tiring leaving gr..." 25/Apr

    Two Sunspots
    "The Five Finger Exercise of Peak Limstone! Excellent, but would be more pleasan..." 28/Sep

    Less Than Zero
    "A good route, with an intense hard section after leaving Meditation. The top se..." 15/Sep

    The Corniceman
    "The start is savage if your under 5'9" (upto 3rd bolt) felt 7b" 11/Sep

    Hergiani
    "How is this E2? It's got one reasonably hard but very well protected move and th..." 09/Sep

    Rape
    "Agree, worth doing, just about as hard as rave on." 30/Aug

    The Ogre
    "Rebolted 12/08, cleaned 07/00" 20/Jul

    Queer Street
    "Upper wall de-turfed (might still be a bit dusty) and new thread last w/e. The s..." 27/Jun

    Valentine (pitch 1)
    "Climbed this and gave it aq bit of a clean today - lower-off backed up with new ..." 24/Jun

    Chee Tor Girdle
    "Great route, and damn good value for money! Final pitch is never 4c, at least 5a..." 26/Apr

    Hooligans
    "Malc and I cleaned the route and pulled off an ENORMOUS flake. Mike joined us to..." 13/Feb

    Ceramic Extension
    "If I remember correctly, the crux is before the peg and reasonable climbing afte..." 30/Aug

    Match of the Day
    "gardened 25/08/08" 27/Aug

    The Golden Mile
    "not too bad for 6b when you get it right, but certainly baffling, and absolutely..." 04/Aug

    Apocalypse
    "Both pitches cleaned July 2008. Bottom pitch was extremely vegetated and covered..." 16/Jul

    Tequila Mockingbird
    "Presumably more holds have come off this as it is now at least F7c+ and maybe ev..." 14/Jul

    Splintered Perspex
    "Peg seemed fine to me (June 2008), can be backed up by a bomber wire." 03/Jul

    Valentine (pitch 1)
    "A great little route if you've already done Meditation. Now cleaned with a re-e..." 25/Jun

    Tequila Mockingbird
    "Cleaned 15 June 2008." 16/Jun

    Mortlock's Arete
    "Both pitches cleaned June 2008, and top ab point backed up. Do this route and ke..." 13/Jun

    Splintered Perspex
    "plenty of decent gear to back up the, admittedly totally decorative, peg. E3 is ..." 12/Jun

    Rave On
    "Proper boh! An underrated peak limestone classic." 10/Sep

    Flycatcher
    "Thought that this was harder than Match of the Day nearer to 6a than 5b. A bit o..." 27/Aug

    Sunny Goodge Street
    "Dont think it loses interest at all,gets a lttle easyi at the top but its not a ..." 23/Aug

    Sunny Goodge Street
    "Quite good really. Hard-ish traverse leads to pleasant laybacking to the top." 06/Apr

    Approaching
    "Pretty run out for E2." 04/Apr

    Powerplant
    "The crux is actually pretty basic unless you get into lots of weakling knee bar ..." 10/Sep

    Ouijaboard
    "better than powerplant" 24/Aug

    Up the River Without a Paddle
    "tis clean and very climbable at the mo - si (Aug 2006)" 04/Aug

    Cosmopolitan
    "7b is a better grade. The runout beyond the last bolt is not too scary because t..." 12/Jul

    War Memorial
    "Surprisingly nice route, worth an extra star I reckon for the combination of sus..." 05/Jul

    Shake
    "Not that hard climbing but quite awkward." 03/Jul

    42nd Street
    "i had ran out of 5's so i had two sideways rock fours to protect the crux. not r..." 15/Jun

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