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Up and Down

18 mins

Seepage

Dry in the Rain

The Cornice is one of the most impressive bits of rock in the Peak, although in winter, it is difficult to see that it will ever give any dry climbing. When dry, the routes here give some great challenges. Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Ophelias Lobelia Poor route starting from the 8th stepping stone. Bolt and thread protect but it needs more gear.		7b+
2	Forehead Trombone Start from the second stepping stone and follow a flake to a roof. Pulling over this gives the hard crux. Lower-off on the...	1 Stars Strong	7b+
3	Sharp Practice Start from the 1st stepping stone and climb to good holds by the 1st bolt. Make a desperate slopy pull and then attempt to gain...	2 Stars Technical Strong	8a+
4	Masculine Power Trip A power problem up the steep seam in the lower wall leaves you below the bulges. Crank this for the full tick. Usually dirty.	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
5	Mescaline Power Trip Another desperate start, or use stones and/or the first bolt to gain a finger edge, then start climbing. The rock-over onto the...	2 Stars Strong	8a
6	Wright-On Another route which was started by sitting on the first bolt although this one has been bouldered out upping the grade to 8a....	1 Stars Technical Strong	7c+
7	Taylor Made Start up the groove to a rest below the roof (high first bolt). Push on over the roof before making a tricky traverse left. A...	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
8	Wright to Left A rising traverse that follows the overhanging groove-line crossing the previous three routes to the lower-off on Sharp...	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
9	Feminine Ego Trip Start as for Taylor Made to the rest in the groove. Hard moves on undercuts are needed to gain the hollow flake. There is no...	Reachy Strong	8a
10	Monumental Armblaster One of the best lines in the Peak up the monumental diagonal groove. The climbing is hard and sustained with plenty of knee... 1 user comment	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
11	Nemesis From kneebars on Monumental, move left to a sika'd crimp, then make powerful moves up and then left to gain a sika'd boss. Move... 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a+
12	Clematis A left-hand finish to Nemesis. Jugs on top of the crag must be held before reaching down to a lower-off bolt.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	8b
13	Bricktop A fine direct finish to Nemesis. Climb direct up the steep wall after the hard start, finishing up the final part of Malcolm X.	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b
14	Malcolm X A counter diagonal line to Monumental with fewer knee bars and significantly harder moves. Start up Last Eggs then break left...	2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8b+
15	Last Eggs Before the M1 Half a route which still awaits an extension. It includes the start of Malcolm X.	Strong	7c+
16	Gran Techo Climb the wall left of Jug Jockey via dynamic moves to the roof. An improbable sequence and seemingly impossible reaches lead...	3 Stars Technical Pumpy	8b
17	Techno Prisoners A super reachy finish up the wall above the roof of Gran Techo.	3 Stars Reachy Pumpy	8b+
18	The Jug Jockey A roof climb tackling the obvious weakness in the centre of the long roof. Climb the lower wall through a right curving overlap...	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c+
19	Easy Rider From the roof of Jug Jockey, follow the hollow break rightwards until large undercuts and other holds deposit you on the...	1 Stars Pumpy	7c+
20	Dreadnaught The hardest roof climb in the Peak, tackling the roof at an unobvious weakness. A big ring bolt in the roof marks the line. An...	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8c
21	The Roof Warrior A superb route with three hard sections. The tricky lower wall leads to a shake-out at the roof. Gaining a good hold in the...	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a
22	Cry of Despair Follow the steep wall to the weakness through the right end of the large roof. The crux is on the bottom wall but many fall off... 3 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
23	That was the River An energy-sapping pitch featuring a very tough move to get established on the line of undercuts. From a good jug halfway,... 1 user comment	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b+
24	Rapid City A fine climb which would only be 7c if you didn't have to do the powerful start of That was the River. After the start follow... 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Strong	8a
25	Streamline A poor route crossing That was the River, sadly it keeps losing holds. The hard moves may be unclimbable now. 1 user comment	Technical Strong	7c+
26	This is the Sea The direct start to That was the River is a contrast. One hard move proves to be the only barrier to success; it is very... 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical Strong	7c+
27	Old Man River The 1st of the routes up the River via a prominent blunt flake. Crossing the first bulge is tricky. The flake gives a shake-out...	2 Stars Technical	7b
28	Up the River Without a Paddle An unlikely climb which is seldom dry but proves popular when in condition. Pull over the first overhang to a shake, then... 4 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6c+
29	The Naive and Sentimental Lover Start up the River Without a Paddle but break left from the niche above the roof to a flake-line; difficult. A higher method is... 3 user comments	2 Stars Reachy Pumpy	7b+
30	Snails of the Riverbank The direct that has two hard roofs. The first requires a fingery pull and the second seems very unlikely until you go for it.	2 Stars Reachy	7b
31	The Spiders from Mars A poor route with some loose rock. Cross the roofs at a step in the overhangs and plough on up to the lower-off. 1 user comment	Loose	6b
32	Rue Morgue Forgotten line now superseded by its bolted neighbours. Started to the right but finishes as for Gardener's Question Time.		E4 6a
33	The Monday Club A dirty start leads to the better top wall. Both overlaps prove tricky to cross.	Technical	7a+
34	Trampled Underfoot A devious route which winds through the roofs to an excellent finish. From Monday Club move out right under the roof and make a...	1 Stars Technical	7a
35	Gardener's Question Time Start left of a leaning block and climb the wall past two hard sections to the roof. Heave over this and finish up the wall... 1 user comment	1 Stars	7a
36	The Goldfish Climb the wall then move up right to a notch in the main roof. Pull up and around the roof and finish up the rounded slab.	1 Stars Reachy	7a+
37	Crowd Control A stopper move at the roof and a superb rounded finish. If you can't hack the roof crux, then tag the upper wall onto Une Crime...	1 Stars Technical Rounded	7c
38	After the Goldfish 22m. Start up Crowd Control and traverse left under the main roof. Pull up and around the roof and finish up the rounded slab...	1 Stars Reachy	7a+
39	Une Crime Passionel One of the few trad routes on the Cornice that gets ascents. Start up an open groove to a bolt. Climb past this to a bulge then... 1 user comment	2 Stars	E4 6a
40	Fey A good line but usually dirty from neglect. The upper section gets done as part of War Memorial.A Basic Power Problem, E6... 1 user comment	1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery	E4 5c
41	A Basic Power Problem Dangerous line direct over the bulge left of Fey.		E6 6b
42	War Memorial A route with some good face climbing. A large cam or wire might be needed for the top but the climbing is easy. 7 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	6c
43	Succubus A filler-in but with some good climbing. Hard to grade as the crux section is reachy, powerful and desperate, but it is quite... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
44	Shazam A thin crack-line leads to a superb move into the top groove. Lower off from Martial Music. Seldom climbed.	1 Stars Technical	E4 6a
45	Martial Music Neat climbing just right of the crack. Save something for the move across the top bulge, a common take-off point. 5 user comments	2 Stars Technical	7a
46	Clarion Call Top 50 The first of a great trio, although the lower wall is beginning to suffer from polish. Probably the most popular climb on the... 9 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7a
47	Poppy Fields Start up Armistice Day but pull over the bulge to its left. Up the technical wall on small edges, pull over the next bulge and...	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
48	Armistice Day Top 50 The central line has great climbing interspersed with good rests including a hands-off knee-bar before the final tricky wall. 4 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
49	Whose Line is it Anyway? Top 50 The hardest of the trio. Start by going left via an undercut pocket, then traverse right before breaking back out left to a... 7 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7a+
50	Big Store Seldom climbed these days but a worthy route with a decent line. Climb the groove to the bulge then pull left to finish up...	1 Stars Technical	E5 6b
51	Egyptian Bizarre Direct finish to Big Store. Can be turned into a sport route by using a long sling on the first bolt above where Big Store goes...		E5 6b
52	Big Zipper Gives good independent climbing. Snake around the first bolts before heading straight to the right edge of the roof. Move up to...	2 Stars Reachy Technical	7b
53	Beelzebub Move left over the bulge from the rest on Big Zipper. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
54	Bored of the Lies Top 50 This product of an earlier age now appears to have an odd line, though there is a logic to it; worth doing. The lower wall is... 10 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
55	Ouijaboard An excellent route, more independent than it looks. Climb the wall 2m right of Bored on tiny holds, pockets and undercuts to... 4 user comments	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8a
56	Four Door Dostoyevsky The slim groove above the left-hand edge of the long bulging roof provides an elegant and desperate pitch. Gaining the groove... 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8a+
57	Powerplant Top 50 One of the best 8a's in the Peak with a powerful start, a tricky technical crux and a beautiful upper wall. The crux is... 2 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a
58	Devonshire Arms Hard moves are needed to pass the third bolt and a soul-destroying stopper-sequence passing the fifth bolt. 2 user comments	2 Stars Technical Strong	8a+
59	K3 A Peak classic. Lots of undercutting is needed to cross the bulges; it is hard all the way without ever being really... 3 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
60	42 A powerful route breaking right out of K3 using a combination of undercuts and wild slaps. Neglected in recent years. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8b
61	32 Desperate moves through the bulges to join R'n'P.	2 Stars Pumpy	8b+
62	R'n'P The best line here following the right-to-left diagonal through the bulges. The climbing is powerful through these then the... 3 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
63	Snatch Desperately thin climbing direct up the smooth wall after the starting bulges of R'n'P.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b
64	Barney Ragin' A super-sustained pitch that links R'n'P with Love Amongst the Butterflies tackling the bulges via a good slot.	2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b+
65	Love Amongst the Butterflies A technical nightmare. Start by pulling over onto the slab and a virtual hands-off rest. Crimp up the blankness above to an... 1 user comment	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8b
66	Asia Shadow Player A right-hand finish to Butterflies starting from its rest is more crimpy and technical than its parent, if that's possible.	2 Stars Technical Crimpy	8b
67	Somehow Super Start up Love Amongst.. and climb direct up the desperate wall.	1 Stars Technical Crimpy	8c
68	Cosmopolitan A fine climb. Climb up to a wide slot. Swing left then climb direct and slightly left to a stopping point. Step left and make... 3 user comments	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b+
69	Unleashing the Wild Physique One of the original routes here but now much harder due to loss of holds. Climb to the slot on Cosmopolitan then traverse left...	3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy	8a
70	Cordless Madness A direct finish to Cosmopolitan with some fine climbing. Where Cosmo goes left mooch right on an undercut - poor footholds -... 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7c
71	Mandy From the right-hand end of the slot make a hard fingery pull up to a jug. Finish more easily up the wall and flake above. 2 user comments	1 Stars Technical	7b+
72	Flowers in the Dirt A disproportionately hard crux provides the main difficulties although the gap between bolts 3 and 4 may be worrying for some.... 3 user comments	1 Stars Technical Fluttery	7b
73	The Third Order A short-lived hard section to pass the niche followed by delicate climbing above. This section is particularly difficult when... 4 user comments	2 Stars Technical	7b
74	Loco Hard over the lower bulge, easier above.	1 Stars Reachy Technical	7b+
75	Too Pumpy for Grumpy Direct over the bulges then up the wall past a small tree. 1 user comment	Reachy Technical	7b+
76	Further Adventures in Greendale The red wall left of a flake has a tricky clip or two. The easiest and most logical line heads straight for the lower-off.... 2 user comments	1 Stars	6c
77	Old Man's Gambit Gain the hanging corner from below. Climb it and escape left at the top into the trees.	Loose	E2 5c
78	The Corniceman The wall right of the flake, moving left over the bulge. 2 user comments	2 Stars Reachy Technical	7a+
79	Jelly Fingers Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		HVS 5a
80	Vandal Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		VS 4c
81	Whitebeam Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E1 5c
82	Disgusted of Tunbridge Wells Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		HS 4a
83	Ezekiel Stool Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E1 5b
84	Um Bongo Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E4 6b
85	Led Up the Garden Path Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E1 5b
86	Flash Harry Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E4 5c
87	Too Jugless for Douglas Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E4 6b
88	Subversive Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E2 5b
89	Fibrin Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		VS 4c
90	Rinky Dinky Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E1 5c
91	The 'too small for the tall' Wall Forgotten line in the trees right of the Cosmopolitan Wall.		E5 6b
92	Mike's Bike and the Collar-bone Experience An isolated sport route in the wild bush to the right of the Cosmopolitan Wall. Three old bolts protect. Lower-off in the... 1 user comment	Technical Crimpy	7b+
93	Skin-flick The impossible right-hand line of three old bolts. Still unrepeated 12 years later but then how many people have tried.	Technical Crimpy	7c+

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