Hovedveggen (Main Wall)

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The main section of the cliff, the steep centre and right-hand side of the bowl, home to a batch of tough routes, with a couple of easier offerings just sneaking in at the right-hand edge.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crux-Judas
18m. Climb the lower wall to some awkward shelving rock. The bolts of Rutger Hauer head into desperate territory above, instead...
 
Fluttery
Loose
7-
2
Rutger Hauer
14m. From the shelving rock on Crux-Judas tackle the short leaning wall to a lower-off on the rim.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
8- 8
3
Mølje kalas
12m. Four bolts protect a line up the leaning wall directly above the sloping rock at the start. Awkward climbing through...
 
1 Stars
Technical
8-
4
Svart magi
12m. (Black Magic) Five bolt runners protect this arduous outing up the wall then rightwards along the diagonal break. Very...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
9-
5
Lukket prosjekt
12m. Destined to be a hard direct finish where Svart magi sneaks off right. The name indicates that is a 'closed' (as opposed...
1 user comment
 ??
6
Lille vakre Anna
12m. (Little Beautiful Anna - a traditional song). The right-hand line has four bolt runners leading to the lower-off dangling...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7-
7
Stinker's Corner
10m. The right-hand wall of the black recess is escapable towards the end. Straight up at the last bolt earns the 8- tick....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
8-
8
Hoppalong Knut Top 50
10m. Follow Full belastning for four bolts then go diagonal into Stinkers Corner. Again it needs to be done direct past the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
8-
9
Full belastning
16m. (Full Power) Steep and juggy. Climb rightwards through the roofs to a lower off in the huge groove. The route often seeps...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8+
10
Attaca con tufa
26m. A granite tufa - sort of. The roof above the lower-off used by the last two routes is one of the best and hardest here.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
9- 9
11
Ellinor's vise
8m. (Ellinor's Song) Short, with a single bolt anchor. Start as for Commando but trend left and bale out at the earliest...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8-
12
Lukket prosjekt
16m. Starting as for Ellinor's vise, and heading for the lower-off on Full belasting, is a 'closed' project (so keep off).
 ??
13
Commando Top 50
12m. Short and 'ard right from the ground! Start along Joker Nord but then trend left to a lower-off under the (even) steeper...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8
14
Joker nord
25m. The two previous routes are just appetizers for this one, another mega-offering. Trend right eventually doing battle with...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
9- 9
15
Aetat
20m. (Job Center) Start directly below Joker Nord's shark's fin, head rightwards along the diagonal white strip of rock that...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
9-
16
Uvørn sjænking
24m. (Careless Drinking) A tricky start needs an alert belayer. The left-hand line trends left following the rib continuing in...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
9- 9
17
Heimlich maneuver
22m. Starts in the same place as the last route but takes a more direct line to and through the big bulge. Give yourself a hug!
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8
18
Åpent prosjekt
24m. Linking the two previous routes (or currently not linking them) is the left slanting line of an open project.
 ??
19
Reidar Sjuse
20m. A popular line which crosses the centre of the bulge.
 
2 Stars
Strong
8
20
Gullfaks Top 50
20m. (A North Sea sector) One of the best here, a great pitch taking the easiest line up the central part of the wall. Follow...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
7+
21
Gullpils
35m. (Golden Beer - a Norwegian beer) The rightwards extension from just below the lower-off on Gullfaks is a big one. Long...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8+
22
Polakken
20m. (A Polish guy) A short tough offering goes left through the biggest bulge. Awkward and harder than it looks.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
8
23
Alopølsa Top 50
22m. The same start but continue direct using the pølsa (sausage) and some superb pockets higher up.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
8- 8
24
Alopils
32m. A harder extension to the last climb gives a massive pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
8
25
Alkotest Top 50
15m. (Breathalyser) A short groove (tricky second clip for the short) leads to the roof which is passed with difficulty - there...
 
2 Stars
7+
26
Ildvann
15m. (Fire Water) A short pitch with some hard moves on poor holds. The warm-up for the area, usually combined with the next...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
7-
27
Sankthansormen Top 50
25m. (The Glowworm) The extension from the lower-off makes Ildvann into a three start outing. Sustained and little devious.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7+
28
Eggulf Top 50
14m. The last (and first, geographically and historically) route on the cliff is a nice taster. Steep moves on jugs lead to a...
 
2 Stars
5+
  • Latest Comments

    For EGGUM

    Lukket prosjekt
    "This project is now open..." 25/Oct

    Sankthansormen
    "Superb and varied climbing on a route that is slightly spoiled by the mid-way le..." 22/Jul top50

    Stinker's Corner
    "In my opinion this route is pretty hard for the grade. But a very good route!" 21/Jul

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "This route deserves 8. A bit wandery but really good anyway..." 19/Jul

    Sankthansormen
    "Not particularly devious but superb climbing. The hardest move is probably on th..." 16/Jul top50

    Ellinor's vise
    "It was originally meant to be continued, there is an bolted extension continuing..." 15/Jul

    Alopils
    "The anchor on this route is quite a bit higher than shown in the guidebook... Al..." 06/Jul

    Gullfaks
    "Classy, and pumpy!" 13/Mar top50

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