Hovedveggen

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The main central section of the cliff is very steep and has a series of short and intense routes all of which offer great climbing but at a very high standard.
We have used the "not much sun" box here as the cliff faces north. Despite this, if you are here between 26 May and 17 July your ascent may be bathed in the rays of the sun as it dips towards the horizon but never actually sets.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crux-Judas
Climb the lower wall to some awkward shelving rock. The bolts of Rutger Hauer head into desperate territory above, instead...
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
6b+
2
Rutger Hauer
From the shelving rock on Crux-Judas tackle the short leaning wall to a lower-off on the rim.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7b
3
Mølje kalas
Four bolts protect a line up the leaning wall directly above the sloping rock at the start. Awkward climbing through bulges.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
4
Svart magi
(Black Magic) Five bolt runners protect this arduous outing up the wall then rightwards along the diagonal break. Very bouldery...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
8a
5
Lille vakre Anna
(Little Beautiful Anna - a traditional song). The right-hand line has four bolt runners leading to the lower-off dangling from...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
6
Stinker's Corner
The right-hand wall of the black recess is escapable towards the end. Straight up at the last bolt earns the 8- tick. Despite...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
7
Hoppalong Knut Top 50
Follow Full belastning for four bolts then go diagonally into Stinker's Corner. Again it needs to be done direct past the last...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
7a+
8
Full belastning Top 50
(Full Power) Steep and juggy. Climb rightwards through the roofs to a lower off in the huge groove. The route often seeps...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
9
Attaca con tufa
A granite tufa - sort of. The roof above the lower-off used by the last two routes is one of the best and hardest here.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
10
Ellinor's vise
(Ellinor's Song) Short, with a single bolt anchor. Start as for Commando but trend left and bale out at the earliest...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
11
Commando Top 50
Short and 'ard right from the ground! Start along Joker nord but then trend left to a lower-off under the (even) steeper rock.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
12
Joker nord
The two previous routes are just appetizers for this one, another mega-offering. Trend right eventually doing battle with the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
13
Aetat
(Job Center) Start directly below Joker nord's shark's fin, head rightwards along the diagonal white strip of rock that cuts...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
14
Uvørn sjænking
(Careless Drinking) The left-hand line trends left following the rib continuing in the same line until it is possible to get...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
15
Heimlich maneuver Top 50
Starts in the same place as the last route but takes a more direct line to and through the big bulge. Give yourself a hug!
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
16
Reidar Sjuse
A popular line which crosses the centre of the bulge.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
17
Gullfaks Top 50
(A North Sea sector) One of the best here, a great pitch taking the easiest line up the central part of the wall. Follow the...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7a
18
Gullpils
(Golden Beer - a Norwegian beer) The rightwards extension from just below the lower-off on Gullfaks is a big one. Long...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
19
Polakken
(A Polish guy) A short tough offering goes left through the biggest bulge. Awkward and harder than it looks.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b+
20
Alopølsa Top 50
The same start but continue direct using the pølsa (sausage) and some superb pockets higher up.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
7b
21
Alopils
A harder extension to the last climb gives a massive pitch.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
7b+
22
Alkotest Top 50
(Breathalyser) A short groove (tricky second clip for the short) leads to the roof which is passed with difficulty - there are...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a
23
Ildvann
(Fire Water) A short pitch with some hard moves on poor holds. The warm-up for the area.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
6b+
24
Sankthansormen Top 50
(The Glowworm) The extension from the lower-off makes Ildvann into a three star outing. Sustained and a little devious.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
25
Eggulf Top 50
The last (and first, geographically and historically) route on the cliff is a nice taster. Steep moves on jugs lead to a tricky...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
DWS
6a
  • Latest Comments

    For EGGUM

    Eggulf
    "Changed from 5a ** to 6a **, 0% of 2 votes for 6a" 09/Jul top50

    Hoppalong Knut
    "Short and lovely. Quiet easy for the grade." 08/Jul top50

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "Changed from N8- 8 ** to N8- **, no votes" 27/May

    Sankthansormen
    "Superb and varied climbing on a route that is slightly spoiled by the mid-way le..." 22/Jul top50

    Stinker's Corner
    "In my opinion this route is pretty hard for the grade. But a very good route!" 21/Jul

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "This route deserves 8. A bit wandery but really good anyway..." 19/Jul

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