Adjacent Areas
< Sector Crux | None >
Sport
Sun and Shade
Uphill
10 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The main section of the cliff, the steep centre and right-hand side of the bowl, home to a batch of tough routes, with a couple of easier offerings just sneaking in at the right-hand edge.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Stinker's Corner 10m. The right-hand wall of the black recess is escapable towards the end. Straight up at the last bolt earns the 8- tick.... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 8- |
2 |
Hoppalong Knut Top 50 10m. Follow Full belastning for four bolts then go diagonal into Stinkers Corner. Again it needs to be done direct past the... | 2 Stars Pumpy Rounded | 8- |
3 |
Full belastning 16m. (Full Power) Steep and juggy. Climb rightwards through the roofs to a lower off in the huge groove. The route often seeps... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8+ |
4 |
Attaca con tufa 26m. A granite tufa - sort of. The roof above the lower-off used by the last two routes is one of the best and hardest here. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 9- 9 |
5 |
Ellinor's vise 8m. (Ellinor's Song) Short, with a single bolt anchor. Start as for Commando but trend left and bale out at the earliest... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | 8- |
6 |
Lukket prosjekt 16m. Starting as for Ellinor's vise, and heading for the lower-off on Full belasting, is a 'closed' project (so keep off). | ?? | |
7 |
Commando Top 50 12m. Short and 'ard right from the ground! Start along Joker Nord but then trend left to a lower-off under the (even) steeper... | 3 Stars Pumpy | 8 |
8 |
Joker nord 25m. The two previous routes are just appetizers for this one, another mega-offering. Trend right eventually doing battle with... | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 9- 9 |
9 |
Aetat 20m. (Job Center) Start directly below Joker Nord's shark's fin, head rightwards along the diagonal white strip of rock that... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 9- |
10 |
Uvørn sjænking 24m. (Careless Drinking) A tricky start needs an alert belayer. The left-hand line trends left following the rib continuing in... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 9- 9 |
11 |
Heimlich maneuver Top 50 22m. Starts in the same place as the last route but takes a more direct line to and through the big bulge. Give yourself a hug! | 2 Stars Technical Strong | 8 |
12 |
Åpent prosjekt 24m. Linking the two previous routes (or currently not linking them) is the left slanting line of an open project. | ?? | |
13 |
Reidar Sjuse 20m. A popular line which crosses the centre of the bulge. | 2 Stars Strong | 8 |
14 |
Gullfaks Top 50 20m. (A North Sea sector) One of the best here, a great pitch taking the easiest line up the central part of the wall. Follow... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong | 7+ |
15 |
Gullpils 35m. (Golden Beer - a Norwegian beer) The rightwards extension from just below the lower-off on Gullfaks is a big one. Long... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 8+ |
16 |
Polakken 20m. (A Polish guy) A short tough offering goes left through the biggest bulge. Awkward and harder than it looks. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 8 |
17 |
Alopølsa Top 50 22m. The same start but continue direct using the pølsa (sausage) and some superb pockets higher up. 2 user comments | 2 Stars | 8- 8 |
18 |
Alopils 32m. A harder extension to the last climb gives a massive pitch. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 8 |
19 |
Alkotest Top 50 15m. (Breathalyser) A short groove (tricky second clip for the short) leads to the roof which is passed with difficulty - there... | 2 Stars | 7+ |
20 |
Ildvann 15m. (Fire Water) A short pitch with some hard moves on poor holds. The warm-up for the area, usually combined with the next... | 2 Stars Pumpy Rounded | 7- |
21 |
Sankthansormen Top 50 25m. (The Glowworm) The extension from the lower-off makes Ildvann into a three start outing. Sustained and little devious. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 7+ |
22 |
Eggulf Top 50 14m. The last (and first, geographically and historically) route on the cliff is a nice taster. Steep moves on jugs lead to a... | 2 Stars | 5+ |
