Hovedveggen

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The main central section of the cliff is very steep and has a series of short and intense routes all of which offer great climbing but at a very high standard.
We have used the "not much sun" box here as the cliff faces north. Despite this, if you are here between 26 May and 17 July your ascent may be bathed in the rays of the sun as it dips towards the horizon but never actually sets.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Crux-Judas
18m. Climb the lower wall to some awkward shelving rock. The bolts of Rutger Hauer head into desperate territory above, instead...
2 user comments
 
Loose
7-
2
Rutger Hauer
14m. From the shelving rock on Crux-Judas tackle the short leaning wall to a lower-off on the rim.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
8-
3
Mølje kalas
12m. Four bolts protect a line up the leaning wall directly above the sloping rock at the start. Awkward climbing through...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
8-
4
Svart magi
12m. (Black Magic) Five bolt runners protect this arduous outing up the wall then rightwards along the diagonal break. Very...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
9-
5
Lukket prosjekt 1
12m. Destined to be a hard direct finish where Svart magi sneaks off right. The name indicates that is a 'closed' (as opposed...
1 user comment
 ??
6
Lille vakre Anna
12m. (Little Beautiful Anna - a traditional song). The right-hand line has four bolt runners leading to the lower-off dangling...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7-
7
Stinker's Corner
10m. The right-hand wall of the black recess is escapable towards the end. Straight up at the last bolt earns the 8- tick....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
8-
8
Hoppalong Knut
10m. Follow Full belastning for four bolts then go diagonally into Stinker's Corner. Again it needs to be done direct past the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
8-
9
Full belastning
16m. (Full Power) Steep and juggy. Climb rightwards through the roofs to a lower off in the huge groove. The route often seeps...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8+
10
Attaca con tufa
26m. A granite tufa - sort of. The roof above the lower-off used by the last two routes is one of the best and hardest here.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
9-
11
Ellinor's vise
8m. (Ellinor's Song) Short, with a single bolt anchor. Start as for Commando but trend left and bale out at the earliest...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
8-
12
Lukket prosjekt 2
16m. Starting as for Ellinor's vise, and heading for the lower-off on Full belasting, is a 'closed' project (so keep...
 ??
13
Lukket prosjekt
16m. Starting as for Ellinor's vise, and heading for the lower-off on Full belasting, is a 'closed' project (so keep off).
 ??
14
Commando Top 50
12m. Short and 'ard right from the ground! Start along Joker nord but then trend left to a lower-off under the (even) steeper...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
8
15
Joker nord
25m. The two previous routes are just appetizers for this one, another mega-offering. Trend right eventually doing battle with...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
9-
16
Aetat
20m. (Job Center) Start directly below Joker nord's shark's fin, head rightwards along the diagonal white strip of rock that...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
9-
17
Uvørn sjænking
24m. (Careless Drinking) The left-hand line trends left following the rib continuing in the same line until it is possible to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
9-
18
Heimlich maneuver
22m. Starts in the same place as the last route but takes a more direct line to and through the big bulge. Give yourself a hug!
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8
19
Åpent prosjekt
24m. Linking the two previous routes (or currently not linking them) is the left-slanting line of an open project.
 ??
20
Reidar Sjuse
20m. A popular line which crosses the centre of the bulge.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
8
21
Gullfaks Top 50
20m. (A North Sea sector) One of the best here, a great pitch taking the easiest line up the central part of the wall. Follow...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7+
22
Gullpils
35m. (Golden Beer - a Norwegian beer) The rightwards extension from just below the lower-off on Gullfaks is a big one. Long...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
8+
23
Polakken
15m. (A Polish guy) A short tough offering goes left through the biggest bulge. Awkward and harder than it looks.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
8
24
Alopølsa Top 50
25m. The same start but continue direct using the pølsa (sausage) and some superb pockets higher up.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
8-
25
Alopils
32m. A harder extension to the last climb gives a massive pitch.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
8
26
Alkotest Top 50
16m. (Breathalyser) A short groove (tricky second clip for the short) leads to the roof which is passed with difficulty - there...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
7+
27
Ildvann
15m. (Fire Water) A short pitch with some hard moves on poor holds. The warm-up for the area.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
7-
28
Sankthansormen Top 50
28m. (The Glowworm) The extension from the lower-off makes Ildvann into a three star outing. Sustained and a little devious.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
7+
29
Eggulf Top 50
15m. The last (and first, geographically and historically) route on the cliff is a nice taster. Steep moves on jugs lead to a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5+
  • Latest Comments

    For EGGUM

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "Changed from N8- 8 ** to N8- **, no votes" 27/May

    Lukket prosjekt 1
    "This project is now open..." 25/Oct

    Sankthansormen
    "Superb and varied climbing on a route that is slightly spoiled by the mid-way le..." 22/Jul top50

    Stinker's Corner
    "In my opinion this route is pretty hard for the grade. But a very good route!" 21/Jul

    Vestfjordseilasen
    "This route deserves 8. A bit wandery but really good anyway..." 19/Jul

    Sankthansormen
    "Not particularly devious but superb climbing. The hardest move is probably on th..." 16/Jul top50

    Ellinor's vise
    "It was originally meant to be continued, there is an bolted extension continuing..." 15/Jul

    Alopils
    "The anchor on this route is quite a bit higher than shown in the guidebook... Al..." 06/Jul

    Gullfaks
    "Classy, and pumpy!" 13/Mar top50

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