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The best rock on the cliff, in a great setting and with a collection of excellent climbs. The well protected Bilberry Crack, the superb jamming on Brown’s Crack and the well-positioned Quien Sabe? are the classics in the Orange Zone. The Salmon Slab has a great collection of intense Black Zone routes. Guidebook page 86.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Hasta La Vista 8m. Climb the wide awkward crack (not much gear) then make an awkward traverse out right to escape the overhangs. 3 user comments | Graunchy | HVD 3c |
2 |
Back Flip 10m. The bold left arete of the wall, passing a tough overlap, to reach the capstone. An odd off-balance move leads out left... 3 user comments | Fluttery | E1 5b |
3 |
Benberry Wall 10m. The centre of the wall is strenuous, poorly protected and usually dirty. Just to cap it off, some of the flakes feel... 2 user comments | Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
4 |
The Naked Eye 10m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall using flakes and then the steep and worrying arete, eventually on its right-hand... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
5 |
Bilberry Crack 10m. The excellent and protectable thin crack in the corner. 8 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
6 |
Recess Crack 10m. The right-hand corner of the recess is a reasonable lower grade climb with good holds and plenty of protection. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
7 |
Recess Groove 10m. Climb the V-groove, and short wall, just left of the arete. | HS 4b | |
8 |
Nemmes Pas Harry 12m. Climb the steep bulging wall, on flexible flakes, then the delicate scoop above, moving right past a poor pocket. 8 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
9 |
Quien Sabe? 14m. A classic. Start up Brown's Crack, but follow ramps left, then tackle the crucial crack that splits the bulge. Well... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
10 |
Brown's Crack 12m. The straight crack is a gem. Awkward moves gain the deepening and excellent groove, protection is perfect throughout. 10 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
11 |
Jetrunner 12m. Climb the wall via a tiny pocket, to the top break. Step left and sprint up the arete on its right side. Take RPs. 13 user comments | 2 Stars | E4 6a |
12 |
Salmon Left-Hand 12m. As for Jetrunner to the top break then make a high step into twin pockets, with the right foot in the high right pocket,... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
13 |
The Salmon 12m. As for Salmon Direct until you are stood in the high pocket. Traverse right to the small group of poor pockets, and finish... | 2 Stars Technical | E7 6c |
14 |
Salmon Direct 12m. As for Jetrunner to the top break then make some hard moves to gain a high pocket from the right (left foot in pocket).... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
15 |
Smoked Salmon 12m. How you gain the top break is nothing considering what lies above, although direct is best. From the break make three wild... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | E7 7a |
16 |
Curving Crack 10m. Loop along the curving crack then swing right on jams past the arete to finish up Sandy Crack, which may be the crux! 5 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
17 |
Poached Salmon 12m. The arete via a series of slaps to the break, reach up and left for a short flake (hard for the short) to finish. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
18 |
Sandy Crack 8m. The steep, widening crack in the corner has a tricky exit passing a large threadable chockstone. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Graunchy | HS 4b |
19 |
Quebec City 30m. From Sandy Crack, follow the inviting horizontal break through hard-man's territory, all the way to Quien Sabe? | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
20 |
Greydon Boddington 8m. The left-hand line in the short wall, passing a shelf, and finishing up a short crack. 6 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
21 |
Fizz 8m. The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners. 7 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5c |
22 |
The Egg 10m. The elegant hanging scoop is entered from the left and exited rapidly to the right. 1 user comment | Fluttery | E4 6a |
23 |
High and Dry 10m. The scoop direct is technical to a harrowing exit. No sideways chicanery is allowed on this one though! | Fluttery | E6 6b |