Great Tor Lower

Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

The best rock on the cliff, in a great setting and with a collection of excellent climbs. The well protected Bilberry Crack, the superb jamming on Brown’s Crack and the well-positioned Quien Sabe? are the classics in the Orange Zone. The Salmon Slab has a great collection of intense Black Zone routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Shallow Groove
The pleasant groove would benefit from a bit of traffic.
 S 4a
2
Hasta La Vista
Climb the wide awkward crack (not much gear) to its top then traverse out right to escape the overhangs.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD 3c
3
Back Flip
The bold left arete, passing a tricky overlap, to the capstone. An odd off-balance move leads out left then finish direct....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
4
Benberry Wall
The centre of the wall is strenuous, poorly protected and usually dirty. Just to cap it all, some of the flakes feel creaky.
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
Loose
E3 5b
5
The Naked Eye
Climb the right side of the wall using flakes and then the steep and worrying arete, eventually on its right-hand side. Scary.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
6
Bilberry Crack
The excellent and very protectable thin crack in the corner. It is possible to start round to the left up a gloomy corner.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
VS 5a
7
Recess Crack
The right-hand corner of the recess is a decent lower grade climb with mostly good holds and plenty of protection.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
8
Recess Groove
Climb the V-groove, and short wall, just left of the arete. Try to avoid holds on the route to the left.
 HS 4b
9
Nemmes Pas Harry
Climb the steep bulging wall on flexible flakes, then the delicate scoop above, moving right past a disappointing pocket.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Nemes Sabe
A neat and sustained combo, starting up the previous route and finishing up the next one. Heading left instead is harder - E1...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
11
Quien Sabe?
Classic. Start up Brown's Crack, but follow ramps left, then tackle the crucial crack that splits the bulge. Well protected but...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
12
Brown's Crack
The straight fissure is a real cracker. Awkward moves gain the deepening crack/groove, protection is perfect throughout.
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
13
The Egg
The elegant hanging scoop is entered from the left and exited rapidly to the right.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E4 6a
14
High and Dry
The scoop direct is technical to a harrowing exit. No sideways chicanery is allowed on this one though!
 
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
Jetrunner
Climb the wall to hard moves past a tiny pocket to the top break - micro-wires and tiny cams. Traverse left and sprint up the...
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
16
Trout
The most popular of the shoal, also known as Salmon Left-hand. As for Jetrunner to the top break then make a high step into...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
The Salmon
As for Salmon Direct until you are stood in the high pocket. Traverse right to the small group of poor pockets, and finish as...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
18
Salmon Direct
As for Jetrunner to the top break then make some hard moves to gain a high pocket from the right (left foot in pocket). Smear...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
19
Smoked Salmon
Gain the top break direct then make three wild moves up to a poor edge and then a slightly better pocket to the right. Finish...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E7 7a
20
Curving Crack
Loop along the curving crack then swing right on jams past the arete to finish up Sandy Crack, which some find to be the crux!
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
21
Poached Salmon
Tackle the arete via a series of slaps to gain the break, reach up and left for a small flake (very hard for the short) to...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
22
Sandy Crack
The steep, widening crack in the corner has a tricky exit passing a large threadable chockstone.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
23
Quebec City
From Sandy Crack, follow the inviting horizontal break through hard-man's territory, all the way to Quien Sabe?
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
VS 4c
24
Greydon Boddington
The left-hand line in the short wall, passing a shelf, and finishing up a short crack. The crack is slow to dry.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
25
Fizz
The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E1 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

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