Great Tor Lower

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Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

The best rock on the cliff, in a great setting and with a collection of excellent climbs. The well protected Bilberry Crack, the superb jamming on Brown’s Crack and the well-positioned Quien Sabe? are the classics in the Orange Zone. The Salmon Slab has a great collection of intense Black Zone routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hasta La Vista
8m. Climb the wide awkward crack (not much gear) then make an awkward traverse out right to escape the overhangs.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD 3c
2
Back Flip
10m. The bold left arete of the wall, passing a tough overlap, to reach the capstone. An odd off-balance move leads out left...
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
3
Benberry Wall
10m. The centre of the wall is strenuous, poorly protected and usually dirty. Just to cap it off, some of the flakes feel...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
4
The Naked Eye
10m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall using flakes and then the steep and worrying arete, eventually on its right-hand...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
5
Bilberry Crack
10m. The excellent and protectable thin crack in the corner.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
6
Recess Crack
10m. The right-hand corner of the recess is a reasonable lower grade climb with good holds and plenty of protection.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
7
Recess Groove
10m. Climb the V-groove, and short wall, just left of the arete.
 HS 4b
8
Nemmes Pas Harry
12m. Climb the steep bulging wall, on flexible flakes, then the delicate scoop above, moving right past a poor pocket.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
9
Quien Sabe?
14m. A classic. Start up Brown's Crack, but follow ramps left, then tackle the crucial crack that splits the bulge. Well...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
10
Brown's Crack
12m. The straight crack is a gem. Awkward moves gain the deepening and excellent groove, protection is perfect throughout.
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
11
Jetrunner
12m. Climb the wall via a tiny pocket, to the top break. Step left and sprint up the arete on its right side. Take RPs.
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4 6a
12
Salmon Left-Hand
12m. As for Jetrunner to the top break then make a high step into twin pockets, with the right foot in the high right pocket,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
13
The Salmon
12m. As for Salmon Direct until you are stood in the high pocket. Traverse right to the small group of poor pockets, and finish...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
14
Salmon Direct
12m. As for Jetrunner to the top break then make some hard moves to gain a high pocket from the right (left foot in pocket)....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6c
15
Smoked Salmon
12m. How you gain the top break is nothing considering what lies above, although direct is best. From the break make three wild...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E7 7a
16
Curving Crack
10m. Loop along the curving crack then swing right on jams past the arete to finish up Sandy Crack, which may be the crux!
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
17
Poached Salmon
12m. The arete via a series of slaps to the break, reach up and left for a short flake (hard for the short) to finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6b
18
Sandy Crack
8m. The steep, widening crack in the corner has a tricky exit passing a large threadable chockstone.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
19
Quebec City
30m. From Sandy Crack, follow the inviting horizontal break through hard-man's territory, all the way to Quien Sabe?
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
20
Greydon Boddington
8m. The left-hand line in the short wall, passing a shelf, and finishing up a short crack.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
21
Fizz
8m. The right-hand line with two pairs of strange pockets that provide both holds and awkward-to-thread runners.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
22
The Egg
10m. The elegant hanging scoop is entered from the left and exited rapidly to the right.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E4 6a
23
High and Dry
10m. The scoop direct is technical to a harrowing exit. No sideways chicanery is allowed on this one though!
 
Fluttery
E6 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

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