Adjacent Areas
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This excellent crag has many fine walls with a good set of routes which are as popular as any of the trad routes in the Dale. Guidebook page 188.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Scratch Your Eyes Out Very dirty. Start by the waters edge and climb direct past a thread. Never climbed nowadays. | E3 6a | |
2 |
White Gold Excellent climbing on good rock; a quality route. Climb the groove via long pulls to the small roof. Move up left and traverse... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7a |
3 |
Shake Hands With the Octopus Left of White Gold joining it briefly at the end of the leftwards traverse. | E5 6c | |
4 |
Nobody's Hero Sadly neglected, when clean this provides good climbing. Start up White Gold but traverse diagonally right until a long and... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
5 |
The Myrmidon Another fine route suffering from a lack of attention. Climb the lower wall to a drilled peg and make a huge move or leap to... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E5 6b |
6 |
The Ogre The left-hand line on the red wall is desperate for shorties. There is a left-hand variation too. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | 8a |
7 |
Igor The right-hand line on the wall gives a pushy pitch. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7c |
8 |
Fatty Manwell and the Paranoid Oysters 4m left of the corner, past a thread. | E4 6a | |
9 |
Two Sunspots Deservedly popular; a fine route linking the weaknesses in the steep wall to the right. Climb the flake-line to the break, then... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
10 |
Koroblin The vegetated open corner. | E1 5b | |
11 |
Midnight Summer Dream A good first limestone E5. Although the crux section may induce some butterflies, the fall is both safe enough and long enough... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
12 |
The Ape Escape High right-hand finish to Koroblin. Never climbed these days. | E4 6a | |
13 |
Midnight at the Oasis From the bolt on Midnight Summer Dream teeter up rightwards to an oasis. Continue direct past a peg to finish. | Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
Sergeyenna 4 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
15 |
Heart of Darkness A very good mirror image of Sergeyenna with some surprising holds and protection. From atop the pinnacle, step left and climb... | 1 Stars Strong | E3 5c |
16 |
Kriklet's Cancer The hanging groove right of The Ogre. The gear is no longer trustworthy. | E6 6b | |
17 |
Hergiani Climb to the top of the pedestal from its right-hand side. Step right and continue up the tricky crack then step right and head... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
18 |
Absent Friends Better protected and not as hard as it looks, this is a fantastic route tracing a line up the steep wall to the right. Above... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | E3 5c |
19 |
Tec 6m left of the start of Two Sunspots. An unpopular and uninspiring bit or rock. 2 user comments | E1 5b | |
20 |
Nostradamus A sustained pitch with lots of quality moves and rests up the groove-line to the right.. The crux is low-down and nowhere are... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
21 |
Oblomov Climb direct to the crack on Two Sunspots. Follow this then traverse left to finish up a V-groove. | E2 5b | |
22 |
Rave On Excellent beefy climbing up the prominent right-facing flake, with good but hard-won gear. Start below and left of the flake... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
23 |
Boobs The line of bolts right of Rave On gives a technical pitch which is low in the grade. After the 3rd bolt, trend right into Boo... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8a |
24 |
Boo A fine, technical and safe companion route to Tequila which proves relatively amenable until the sharp and fingery finish.... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
25 |
Blind Alleys From below the bolt on Midnight traverse directly right into Sergeyenna. Climb up and over the bulge past an old bolt. | E4 5c | |
26 |
Tequila Mockingbird An outstanding route marking a step forward in trad limestone climbing. A serious start and long moves between distant gear put... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6b |
27 |
Basic Channel A bolted start to Eyes of Fire, some gear is needed for the shared section of the route. Follow the line of bolts (some... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
28 |
Eyes of Fire A traditional solution to the gap right of Tequila which has seen only a handful of ascents. A demanding route which is very... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6c |
29 |
Mortlock's Arete Quite simply, done in its entirety, this is one of the best E4s on limestone in the country.1) 6a, 25m. Climb up a scoop to... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E4 6a |
30 |
The Freeman Trap Climb slightly leftwards before moving back right at the top. | 6c+ | |
31 |
Mantrap Start with a bulge. | 7b+ | |
32 |
The Poverty Trap The tricky bulge and wall. | 7b | |
33 |
A Widespread Lack of Imagination A second pitch to Nostradamus tackling the upper wall past a thread. | E3 6a | |
34 |
The Freedom Trap The wall just left of Mortlock's top groove. Climb up to a rising diagonal and follow this to the break. Belay at the top. | E5 6b | |
35 |
The Golden Mile Vying with Supersonic on High Tor as the best E5 on Peak limestone; but this one is almost a full grade harder. E3 5c climbing... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
36 |
The Dream Mile A tight line fitted in right of The Golden Mile. Start up Apocalypse then break right after 5m and climb the wall direct to the... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
37 |
Apocalypse Yet another superb Peak E4. Pitch 1 has the technical well-protected crux, but pitch two provides the real challenge.1) 6a,... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
38 |
Books on the Bonfire A bold and exposed eliminate up the rib (bolt) between the upper pitches of Mortlocks and Apocalypse. | E6 6b | |
39 |
Alfresco Sadly a bit of a drainage line otherwise it would see more action.1) 5b, 25m. Start as for Apocalypse but traverse right... 4 user comments | HVS 5b | |
40 |
One Night Pull direct over the bulge above the belay of Alfresco into a finely-positioned groove. | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
41 |
Meditation Top 50 Although a little polished, this Chee Tor classic offers great climbing at the grade with two distinct and contrasting crux... 6 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
42 |
Less Than Zero Worth attempting as an introduction to the grade since there is only one relatively short and well-protected hard bit. From the... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Reachy | E3 5c |
43 |
Valentine (pitch 1) The first pitch gives an excellent counter-diagonal to Meditation. Climb the wall left of Ceramic past two small trees. Cross... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
44 |
Approaching Another fine climb at the bottom end of the grade, tracing a devious line on good rock with adequate rests. Protection is good,... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | E3 5c |
45 |
Suddenly Climb the wall right of the groove of Alfresco to reach and cross that route. Dream of Spain and head for the tufa and the... | E5 6b | |
46 |
Ceramic A Chee Tor rite of passage with a massive reputation for its fall from the crux (which is actually a safe if daunting... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
47 |
Ceramic Extension A great old-school E5; sloping holds, bags of exposure, a long run out, awkward-to-clip old gear, but ultimately safe (just... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
48 |
The Messiah An eliminate starting up Approaching and following the left-hand arete of the Ceramic groove. unfortunately keeping on this... | E4 6a | |
49 |
Terrorcotta A bold eliminate. From the base of the Ceramic groove step right, place some micro-wires then balance up the wall, with a move... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6c |
50 |
Laughing Good climbing with an exciting finish. It is possible to inspect it from Splintered Perspex but this isn't very encouraging.... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
51 |
Splintered Perspex A lesser-known Chee Tor gem which gives fine sustained moves and a well-protected crux. Climb the wall to a rest on the left.... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 6a |
52 |
A Nasty Farming Accident An extension to Splintered Perspex past 3 bolts to a lower-off. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
53 |
Great Central Route A popular climb with two worthwhile and contrasting pitches.1) HVS 5a, 25m. Follow a flake/groove then move right past a... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
54 |
Of Youth A counter line to Great Central giving good open climbing. Low in the grade as there is only one short hard section adequately... | 1 Stars Crimpy | E3 5c |
55 |
Shake Climb up to reach the large left-facing flake and follow this to easier ground and the break. Traverse rightwards across the... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
56 |
Two Generations A neglected route with a short hard section past a thread on its lower section. Above, it wanders more easily up the wall. | Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
57 |
Captain Ahab The bulge and wall. | Technical | 7b+ |
58 |
The Body Line The groove above the yew tree belay for Shake. Entry requires liberal use of the tree which can be a scratchy experience. The... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
59 |
Autobahn Another route known for its safe, but juicy fall. Climb the wall to the flake and good protection. From here, traverse... | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
60 |
Lily Street An eliminate left of Queer Street. Climb to a thread, move up left to a bulge (thread) and make a long move over to gain the... | Reachy Fluttery | E5 6b |
61 |
Queer Street A fantastic, but often frustrating and energy sapping route which is getting rather polished. Very safe, but strenuous to make... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | E3 6a |
62 |
Moby Dick The steep bulging wall above the belay of Queer Street. | 1 Stars Pumpy | 7c |
63 |
42nd Street A fine and popular pitch to push your E-grade on. It has a few bold sections but overall it is low in the grade and adequately... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
64 |
Theology A good route on the upper wall. From the belay of 42nd Street climb the steep line left of Duel in the Sun past 4 bolts and a... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
65 |
Duel in the Sun A fine though seldomed climbed pitch on the upper wall. From the belay on 42nd Street, pull over the bulge and clip a peg on... | 2 Stars Strong Fluttery | E5 6b |
66 |
Sunny Goodge Street Features some good moves near the bottom but above the hard section the route rather fizzles out. Follow a short groove then... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | E2 5b |
67 |
The Last Laugh The grotty corner right of Sunny Godge Street. | HVS 5a | |
68 |
Hatred A bold direct version of Sunny Godge Street. Climb straight up from the start groove. | E4 5c | |
69 |
Pink Panther Possibly Ron Fawcett's most forgetable new route. The bulging wall left of Grinning Chimney has little in the way of... 1 user comment | E5 6a | |
70 |
Grinning Chimney The corner left of the Match of the Day wall. Not a good climb. there is a second pitch up a chimney somewhere (4a). | HVS 5b | |
71 |
Hooligans The wall left of Match of the Day has chipped holds. 1 user comment | E3 5c | |
72 |
Match of the Day A good little route which packs a lot into its height. Climb the sustained lower wall to a flake. Follow this with difficulty... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
73 |
Goal of the Month Speedy climbing if you do it right. Climb the wall two metres left of the thin crack of The Chopper past 2 threads. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
74 |
The Chopper The thin crack left of the big flake gives a pleasant and testing pitch for the grade. Where the crack runs out, step left into... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 5a |
75 |
Sleepwalkers The big hanging flake gives an unpleasant route. Pitch 2 (5b) breaches the upper wall via a groove. 1 user comment | HVS 5b | |
76 |
Pleasant Dreams The thin groove in the front of the big hanging flake. Can be started direct at E3 but only if you have done every other route... | HVS 5c | |
77 |
Rape The right-hand side of the hanging flake gives a worthwhile pitch. Gain it from below and right. There is a second pitch which... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
78 |
Gulle Gulle Groove Enjoyable climbing up the open groove left of a big tree. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
79 |
Flycatcher A poor man's Snap Dragon but with good climbing. Climb the wall behind the tree to a flake then move up and left to the edge of... 6 user comments | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
80 |
Snap Dragon An unsung gem. From behind the big tree, climb up to a flake. Move up right to a second flake and then back left to a thread.... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6b |
81 |
Leering Wall An unlikely looking line at the grade. Start up a left-leaning flake. Choose your level and step out right onto the wall, lower... 4 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
82 |
Dagenham Dave Climb the wall to a bulge then make hard moves to gain a groove. Finish at the break. | E1 5b | |
83 |
Clive's Route Some thin cracks lead up the wall to a scoop on the right. Finish at a tree. 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
84 |
Changeling A desperate technical problem which sees few ascents. | Technical Crimpy | E4 6a |
85 |
Doggone Groove The groove on the far right of the crag and is usually used as a start to the Girdle. There is also a second pitch which... | VS 4b | |
86 |
Chee Tor Girdle 172m. One of the classic VS routes of the Peak which provides a great outing with amazing situations for the grade. Not a good... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 5a |
87 |
Switch A bouldery start is the substance of the route. Join Clive's Route to finish. | E3 6a | |
88 |
What Aches? The vague rib right of Doggone Groove. A route to seek out on a 'Chee Tor Blues' day. | E4 6a | |
89 |
Otaix The wall 5m right of Doggone Groove. 1 user comment | E1 5b | |
90 |
Negative Earth 10m right of Doggone Groove. 1 user comment | E1 5b | |