South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end of Djupfjord. It has a quick and easy approach, gets plenty of sun and is always popular. It is worth checking from the road to see how busy the crag is to save a walk up if your intended route is occupied.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kangshungrisset
(The Kangshung Crack) The vertical crack system just to the left of the big black chimney. Steep sport, especially the top...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6+
2
Sorte Orm
(Black Adder) The big forbidding groove that bounds the left side of the main section of the face gives an atmospheric...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6
3
Applecake Arete Top 50
Start at the foot of the arete under the tree-filled corner.1) 4+, 40m. Climb onto the arete proper and follow it through...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
4
Lys og skygge Top 50
(Light and Shade) Start at the foot of a right-trending grassy ramp.1) 5+, 25m. Climb the ramp then the steep fingery wall...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
5+
5
Soria Moria Top 50
(A castle in a Norwegian fairytale) A difficult climb up the prominent right-trending groove. Originally a hard aid route and...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
6
Nye tider
(New Times) A serious aid route taking the only line up the big slab under Soria Moria. Bring birdbeaks, copperheads and...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
A3
7
Kongens hjørne
(The King's Arete) A serious lead, with ground-fall potential. Start at the top of the grassy ramp. Climb slightly left, then...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6
8
Dream of White Whales
The thin dyke on the diagonal buttress below and right of the rest of the cliff. Gain and follow the dyke up and right until it...
2 user comments
 
Pumpy
5+
9
Slemgutt risset
(Bad Boy's Crack) The crack in the small outcrop above the cliff.
 
Crimpy
5+
10
Djupfjord sprickan Top 50
(Djupfjord Crack) A smart vertical crackline in a clean sheet of rock round and right of Lys og skygge. It can be seen from the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7-
11
Jørn Roger
An aid route starting from loose blocks and following a groove to a stance (A1, 10m) then up the thin cracks in the face above...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
A2
  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN

    Frøken Sverige
    "Added a route up the blunt rib to the left of Frøken Sverige: "Ångermanland..." 23/Jun

    Djupfjord sprickan
    "1 Star in the guidebook and the information that it is an off width, means just ..." 14/Jul top50

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

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