Adjacent Areas
< West Face | None >
A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end of Djupfjord. It has a quick and easy approach, gets plenty of sun and always popular. It is worth checking from the road to see how busy the crag is to save a walk up if your intended object is occupied. Approach (see map on page §) - Follow a path along the north shore of Djupfjorden for a 100m then head directly up to the crag on a good path through the billberrys. Descent - Either make a spectacular free-hanging abseil (50m) off the fixed chain straight over the huge roof (don't be tempted to try and abseil down the arete on the left - a big scary rope-knackering swing will ensue!) Alternatively, walk over the ridge (to the left looking at the cliff) and descend the gully as for the West Face routes - see page §.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Kangshungrisset 60m. (The Kangshung Crack) The vertical crack system just to the left of the big black chimney. Steep sport, especially the top... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | 6+ |
2 |
Sorte Orm 60m. (Black Adder) The big forbidding groove that bounds the left side of main section of the face gives an atmospheric... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | 6 |
3 |
Applecake Arete Top 50 56m. Start at the foot of the arete under the tree-filled corner. ,br>1) 4+, 40m. Climb onto the arete proper and follow it... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | 5+ |
4 |
Lys og skygge Top 50 60m. (Light and Shade) Start at the foot of a right-trending grassy ramp on the right-hand side of the South Face.1) 5+,... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | 5+ |
5 |
Soria Moria Top 50 65m. A difficult climb up the prominent right-trending groove. Originally a hard aid route and now a harder free one.1) 7,... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | 7+ |
6 |
Nye tider 35m. (New Times) A serious aid route taking the only line up the big slab under Soria Moria. Bring bird-beaks, copper-heads and... | 1 Stars Fluttery | ?? A3 |
7 |
Kongens hjørne 45m. (The King’s Arete) A serious lead, with ground-fall potential. Start at the top of the grassy ramp. Face climb slightly... | 1 Stars Fluttery | 6 |
8 |
Dream of White Whales 28m. The thin dyke on the diagonal buttress below and right of the rest of the cliff. Gain and follow the dyke up and right... | Pumpy | 5+ |
9 |
Djupfjord sprickan 18m. (Djupfjord Crack) A smart vertical crack-line in a clean sheet of rock round and right of Lys og skygge. It can be seen... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | 7- |
10 |
Jorn Roger 45m. An aid route starting from loose blocks and following a groove to a stance (A1, 15m) then up the thin cracks in the face... | 1 Stars | ?? A2 |
