South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
5 mins

A good collection of climbs on this fine face which overlooks the causeway across the seaward end of Djupfjord. It has a quick and easy approach, gets plenty of sun and always popular. It is worth checking from the road to see how busy the crag is to save a walk up if your intended object is occupied. Approach (see map on page §) - Follow a path along the north shore of Djupfjorden for a 100m then head directly up to the crag on a good path through the billberrys. Descent - Either make a spectacular free-hanging abseil (50m) off the fixed chain straight over the huge roof (don't be tempted to try and abseil down the arete on the left - a big scary rope-knackering swing will ensue!) Alternatively, walk over the ridge (to the left looking at the cliff) and descend the gully as for the West Face routes - see page §.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kangshungrisset
60m. (The Kangshung Crack) The vertical crack system just to the left of the big black chimney. Steep sport, especially the top...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6+
2
Sorte Orm
60m. (Black Adder) The big forbidding groove that bounds the left side of main section of the face gives an atmospheric...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
6
3
Applecake Arete Top 50
56m. Start at the foot of the arete under the tree-filled corner. ,br>1) 4+, 40m. Climb onto the arete proper and follow it...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5+
4
Lys og skygge Top 50
60m. (Light and Shade) Start at the foot of a right-trending grassy ramp on the right-hand side of the South Face.1) 5+,...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
5+
5
Soria Moria Top 50
65m. A difficult climb up the prominent right-trending groove. Originally a hard aid route and now a harder free one.1) 7,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
6
Nye tider
35m. (New Times) A serious aid route taking the only line up the big slab under Soria Moria. Bring bird-beaks, copper-heads and...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
?? A3
7
Kongens hjørne
45m. (The King’s Arete) A serious lead, with ground-fall potential. Start at the top of the grassy ramp. Face climb slightly...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
6
8
Dream of White Whales
28m. The thin dyke on the diagonal buttress below and right of the rest of the cliff. Gain and follow the dyke up and right...
 
Pumpy
5+
9
Djupfjord sprickan
18m. (Djupfjord Crack) A smart vertical crack-line in a clean sheet of rock round and right of Lys og skygge. It can be seen...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7-
10
Jorn Roger
45m. An aid route starting from loose blocks and following a groove to a stance (A1, 15m) then up the thin cracks in the face...
 
1 Stars
?? A2
  • Latest Comments

    For PIANOKRAKKEN

    Pizzatyven
    "Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1..." 31/Jul top50

    Lys og skygge
    "I felt the first pitch more delicate. Take care in the crux, not every hold is v..." 29/May top50

    Applecake Arete
    "Nice Climb" 27/Sep top50

    Pianohandler Lunds rute
    "Great route, well worthy of it's top 50 status. Varied climbing. Top of pitch 3 ..." 26/Jul top50

    Ant Line
    "You can also continue the climbing along obvious crack lines to the summit of th..." 10/Jul

    Pizzatyven
    "P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The r..." 17/Jul top50

    Pizzatyven
    "Did it a few days ago following the amended instructions in the update. Pitch 3 ..." 28/Jun top50

    Huggormen
    "Nicer than it looks. Tricky roof and the rest was also harder than it looked. I..." 29/Jul top50

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