Main Wall

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Sport
Morning sun
14 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

An excellent wall of gently leaning limestone that has a very good selection of grade 7s. In warm weather the wall offers a useful retreat in the afternoons but at other times it can be cold once the sun has gone off the wall in the afternoon, especially if there is a wind howling down the gill. Can be midgy at times.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
All Weather Extra
The first line of bolts on the left margin of the wall.
 5c
2
Shaggy Dog Story
The line to the right of All Weather Extra joining it at its fourth bolt after a deviation right into Angelic Upstart.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
3
Angelic Upstart
A good pitch that has a fine finish on good holds.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a
4
Spent Youth
The trio of overlaps and the short headwall is a good line.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
5
The Tinderbox
A good direct line up the overlaps.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
6
Smouldering Globules of Lust
A sustained wall pitch starting up a short left-facing flake.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
7
The Velveteen Rabbit
Fine climbing to the ramp of Angel Dust.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
8
Angel Heart
Tackle the hanging blunt arete.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
9
Hoodoo Guru
Make some steep moves to access the base of the groove and climb it to a rest. Finish steeply rightwards via the diagonal...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
10
Kick My Habit
Climb direct to the ledge of Angel Dust and then move up, as for Cold Turkey, before breaking leftwards up a vague ramp to join...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
11
Angel Dust
An excellent climb. Hard moves over the first roof gain a small ledge up and left. Follow the corner/groove and ramp leftwards...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
12
Cold Turkey
The line above the ledge of Angel Dust gives a good pitch.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
13
The Big Crack
20m. Thrash up the corner with gusto.
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVS 5a
14
The Jack Flap
Move right out of The Big Crack after its steep start - no bridging into The Big Crack after the start. It can be started...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
15
Angel Delight
A sustained pitch that follows the left-facing flake and rib above it, finishing at the lower-off of The Jack Flap.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
16
Haslam
The line of bolts just right of the projecting block leads to a shake-out. Finish via some tricky thin pulls over the bulges.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
17
The Jim Grin Top 50
The best route at Troller's Gill starting up the left-facing corner to a ledge and then moving out left and up to finish -...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
18
Cross Breeding
From the second bolt on All Weather Extra go right to the third bolt on Shaggy Dog. Cross the Angelic Upstart groove and go up...
 6c+
19
Never Look Back
Follow Cross Breeding to the roof on Spent Youth. Traverse the break past Smouldering Globules of Lust and continue to the ramp...
 
1 Stars
7a+
20
Barguest Direct
A popular and more logical direct finish to the original line.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
21
Barguest
Beware the Barguest! Follow Barguest Direct to its upper break. Traverse right along the break and then move up to a lower-off.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
22
The White Zone
Move up the wall leftwards to the shallow cave. Pull out and make hard moves to the upper horizontal break. Finish up the short...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
23
Eau de Lapin
A varied pitch crossing Brute.
 
Technical
Strong
6c+
24
Yew Can Do
Climb easily to a ledge and then up the bolt line above.
 6a+
25
Sweet Nothing
Climb The Big Crack for six metres and move right to a good hold on Angel Delight. Traverse past a rib to gain The Jim Grin and...
 
1 Stars
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For TROLLERS GILL

    Barguest
    "Easier than the Barguest Direct certainly, but the traverse adds to the climbing..." 23/May

    The Jim Grin
    "Now very well bolted, and a bit polished, and all the better for it. Very good j..." 10/Jul top50

    Angel Delight
    "7a+, definitely no longer a trad route (although there's a rusty peg high up)." 04/Jul

    Angel Dust
    "7a+ and quite good. shame about the rock quality near the start." 28/Jun

    Angelic Upstart
    "I'd second that opinion, I reckoned 7a, tricky but not hard." 19/Oct

    Smouldering Globules of Lust
    "Very hard start to gain good undercut. Virtually impossible to dog as the bolts ..." 04/Oct

    Haslam
    "How far left are you 'allowed' to go near the top before the final crux? It all..." 26/May

    The Jim Grin
    "Still a great route, and the 'polished horror' Mike feared has defnitely not mat..." 15/May top50

    Cold Turkey
    "A friend recently pointed out my earlier comments on this route. I did back an..." 05/Sep

    Haslam
    "Certainly felt hard for a 7b pitch." 16/Jul

    Haslam
    "Yeah, you missed the finish. There is a belay now straight up, common with Angel..." 03/May

    The Big Crack
    "Classic climbing, possible in the rain as this part of the crag can be sheltered..." 01/Dec

    Cold Turkey
    "Poor route with a bad start" 04/Sep

    Spent Youth
    "extra bolt in upper section, to prevent deck-out" 21/Jul

    Barguest
    "I don't think the original finish should be considered redundant. I did it again..." 12/Jul

    The White Zone
    "First ascent of this and Cold Turkey were 1985, not 95, with 1 bolt already plac..." 30/Jun

    Cold Turkey
    "I know this jhas always been loose but I must be a clumsy oaf as I went on this ..." 18/Jun

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