Presten

Adjacent Areas
< Lille Presten  |  Harley Davidson Wall >

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Sun from mid-morning
10 mins
Uphill

Lofoten’s most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has spread further afield. Its sheer nose of granite rises 400 metres above the sea just to the north of Henningsvær, in a single majestic sweep. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar) the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. It is undoubtedly Lofoten’s best known and finest rock climb offering twelve pitches of varied well protected climbing, up a devious but logical line, and on superb rock throughout. Korstoget (The Crusade) and Reisen (The Journey) forge their respective ways up the left-hand side of the Priest’s face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Himmel og Helvete
560m. (Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
7
2
To krigere
(Two Warriors) This difficult climb was the second full length route up Presten and was first done in the depths of winter! It...
 
1 Stars
7
3
Korstoget Top 50
385m. (The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
7
4
Ypperstepresten Top 50
162m (+ 60m across Storhylla). (The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6
5
Biskopen
220m (+ 60m across Storhylla). (The Bishop) An intriguing line at an amenable grade with an exciting pendulum high on the...
 
2 Stars
6-
6
The Codfather
465m. An excellent intricate route with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro wires. Start at a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7
7
Sondagskole turen
170m. (Sunday School Outing) A route to nowhere, though with some good and bold climbing. 1) 5, 45m. As for The Cod Father. 2)...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
7
8
Reisen
440m. (The Journey) A tremendous voyage of exploration up PrestenâÄôs imposing central section. The route offers technical...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
9
Vestpillaren Variation Start
50m. A left-hand start to Vestpillaren gives a decent long pitch with good crack-climbing and laybacking.
 
2 Stars
6-
10
Vestpillaren Top 50
467m. (The West Pillar) The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours although an efficient team should manage it in less. From the...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6
11
Vestpillaren original starten Top 50
A good set of pitches which can be combined with Klokkeren (page 150) to offer a different way up the face. Start up and right...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5+
12
Original avslutning
(Original Finish) On the first ascent of Vestpillaren the team were attracted to the fine leaning grooves in the crest of the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
13
Himmelen kan vente
310m. (Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6+
14
Variasjon til en variasjon
150m. (Variation on a Variation) A good variation up the left-slanting crack system just to the left Vestpillaren pitch 3....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6+
15
Klokkeren
450m. (The Bell Ringer) A popular set of pitches on the upper central portion of Presten, up a parallel crack/groove system...
 
2 Stars
7-
  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Ypperstepresten
    "It's not Top50, its Top10. One of the greatest climbs I could imagine. The cru..." 14/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Just repeated this route (last did it 15 years ago) and found pitch 3 (on the di..." 06/Aug top50

    Himmelen kan vente
    "Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct. 1) dont follow the..." 23/Jul

    Vestpillaren
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Maybe good to know that the hard sections are always short and well protected. O..." 29/May top50

    Vestpillaren original starten
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Diagree with Richard. Pitches 4,5,6,and 10 are actually quite good especially pi..." 26/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren
    "A great route, some beautiful sustained pitches but there are also a number grot..." 25/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

    Korstoget
    "An excellent link-up (with a 7- crux) is the first 4 pitches of Korståget (to St..." 29/Jul top50

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