Vestpillaren

Adjacent Areas
< Lille Presten  |  Harley Davidson Wall >

Trad
No sun
0 mins
Up and Down

There is a great collection of routes on the face and almost all are well worth doing. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar), the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. It is undoubtedly Lofoten's best known and finest rock climb offering twelve pitches of varied and well-protected climbing, up a devious but logical line, and on superb rock throughout. The two main features of the face are the huge roof, which is tackled by Reisen and the Codfather, and the ledge running across the face above the roof. This ledge is known as Storhylla and provides a useful connection point between many of the routes.
Approach - The routes can be approached directly from the road below. There is roadside parking for half-a-dozen cars in a lay-by directly below the big gully that delineates the right-hand side of the face. An intermittent narrow path leads from the left-hand end of this to the right-hand side of the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Himmel og Helvete
(Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the top...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
7
2
To krigere
(Two Warriors) This difficult climb was the second full length route up Presten and was first done in the depths of winter! It...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7 A3
3
Korstoget Top 50
(The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows the...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
7
4
Ypperstepresten
(The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits the sheets of white granite below...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6
5
Biskopen
(The Bishop) An intriguing line at an amenable grade with an exciting pendulum high on the cliff. Despite being the easiest way...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
6- A0
6
The Codfather
An excellent intricate route with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro wires. Start at a...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7
7
Søndagskole turen
(Sunday School Outing) A route to nowhere, though with some good and bold climbing.1) 5, 45m. As for The Cod...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
7
8
Reisen
(The Journey) A tremendous voyage of exploration up Presten's imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing on...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
9
Vestpillaren Variation Start
50m. A left-hand start to Vestpillaren gives a decent long pitch with good crack-climbing and laybacking.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
6-
10
Vestpillaren Top 50
(The West Pillar) The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours although an efficient team should manage it in less. From the parking...
14 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6
11
Vestpillaren original starten Top 50
A good set of pitches which can be combined with Klokkeren (page 150) to offer a different way up the face. Start up and right...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
5+
12
Original avslutning
(Original Finish) On the first ascent of Vestpillaren the team were attracted to the fine leaning grooves in the crest of the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
13
Himmelen kan vente
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6+
14
Variasjon til en variasjon
(Variation on a Variation) A good variation up the left-slanting crack system just to the left Vestpillaren pitch 3. Useful for...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6+
15
Klokkeren
(The Bell Ringer) A popular set of pitches on the upper central portion of Presten, up a parallel crack/groove system just to...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
7-
  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Korstoget
    "Changed from 7 *** to N7 ***, 100% of 3 votes for N7" 27/May top50

    Ypperstepresten
    "It's not Top50, its Top10. One of the greatest climbs I could imagine. The cru..." 14/Jul

    Vestpillaren
    "Just repeated this route (last did it 15 years ago) and found pitch 3 (on the di..." 06/Aug top50

    Himmelen kan vente
    "Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct. 1) dont follow the..." 23/Jul

    Vestpillaren
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Maybe good to know that the hard sections are always short and well protected. O..." 29/May top50

    Vestpillaren original starten
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Diagree with Richard. Pitches 4,5,6,and 10 are actually quite good especially pi..." 26/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren
    "A great route, some beautiful sustained pitches but there are also a number grot..." 25/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

    Search for comments