Presten

Adjacent Areas
< Lille Presten  |  Harley Davidson Wall >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Uphill
10 mins

Lofotenís most famous cliff is known throughout Norway and it reputation has spread further afield. Its sheer nose of granite rises 400 metres above the sea just to the north of Henningsvśr, in a single majestic sweep. Vestpillaren (The West Pillar) the original route on the face, ascends a system of cracks and corners up the right-hand side of the nose. It is undoubtedly Lofotenís best known and finest rock climb offering twelve pitches of varied well protected climbing, up a devious but logical line, and on superb rock throughout. Korstoget (The Crusade) and Reisen (The Journey) forge their respective ways up the left-hand side of the Priestís face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Himmel og Helvete
560m. (Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
7
2
To krigere
(Two Warriors) This difficult climb was the second full length route up Presten and it was first done in the depths of winter!...
 
1 Stars
6 A3
3
Korstoget Top 50
386m. (The Crusade) A fine and bold route up cracks and grooves just left of the nose of the cliff. The final section follows...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
Loose
7
4
Ypperstepresten Top 50
162m (+ 60m across Storhylla). (The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
6
5
Biskopen
220m (+ 60m across Storhylla). (The Bishop) An intriguing line at an amenable grade with an exciting pendulum high on the...
 
2 Stars
6- A0
6
The Codfather
465m. An excellent route, varied and devious, with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro-wires....
 
3 Stars
Technical
7
7
Søndagskoleturen
170m. (Sunday School Outing) A route to nowhere, though with some good and bold climbing.1) 5, 45m. As for The Cod...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
7
8
Reisen
440m. (The Journey) A tremendous voyage of exploration up Prestenís imposing central section. The route offers technical...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
7+
9
Vestpillaren Top 50
467m. (The West Pillar) The normal ascent time is 6 to 8 hours although an efficient team should manage it in less. From the...
12 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6
10
Vestpillaren Original Start Top 50
A good set of pitches which can easily be combined with Klokkern to offer a different way up the face. Start up and right from...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5+
11
Originalavslutning
(Original Finish) On the first ascent the team were attracted to the fine leaning grooves in the crest of the pillar.9) 6-,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
12
Himmelen kan vente
(Heaven Can Wait) The route is not entirely new, the lower section uses some pitches that have been done before. A large cam or...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6+
13
Variasjon til en variasjon
65m. (Variation on a Variation) Tackles the left-slanting crack system just to the left Vestpillaren pitch 3.1 and 2) 6-,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6+
14
Klokkern
450m. (The Bell Ringer) A popular set of pitches that ascends the upper central portion of Presten, climbing a parallel...
 
2 Stars
7-
  • Latest Comments

    For PRESTEN

    Vestpillaren
    "Just repeated this route (last did it 15 years ago) and found pitch 3 (on the di..." 06/Aug top50

    Himmelen kan vente
    "Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct. 1) dont follow the..." 23/Jul

    Vestpillaren
    "Perfection - wonderful, sustained climbing all the way with only a few short tri..." 13/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "On the crux pitch, after the 3rd bolt, go "right and up" rather than &..." 26/Jun top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Maybe good to know that the hard sections are always short and well protected. O..." 29/May top50

    Vestpillaren Original Start
    "We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (..." 06/Aug top50

    Vestpillaren
    "Diagree with Richard. Pitches 4,5,6,and 10 are actually quite good especially pi..." 26/Jul top50

    Vestpillaren
    "A great route, some beautiful sustained pitches but there are also a number grot..." 25/Jul top50

    Korstoget
    "Very nice up to Storhylla, pitch 5 and 6 are OK, after that the quality drops dr..." 04/Aug top50

    Korstoget
    "An excellent link-up (with a 7- crux) is the first 4 pitches of Korståget (to St..." 29/Jul top50

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