Gandalf Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The fine broad buttress that makes up the main bulk of the cliff is home to many of its best routes. On the left are a compelling set of groovelines and to the right some striking cracklines - almost all of these give classic climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Edderkoppen
(The Spider) Start below the left-hand end of the big slanting overhang in the middle of the wall.1) 6-, 25m. Trend right,...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7-
2
Tynne ting
(Thin Things) Another bold pitch up the slabby rock below and right of the lower abseil point. The name is pointer to the lack...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
Loose
6
3
Nøttolfs fristelse
(Nøttolf's Temptation) A line based on the black water streak just to the left of the diagonal overlaps.1) 6+, 25m. Climb...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7-
4
Nøtteliten
An extension to Nøttolfs fristelse (pitch 1 of which is probably overgraded in the guidebook). 1) 6+, 25m. As for Nøttolfs...
 
1 Stars
6+
5
Førstereisgutten
(The Boy's First Journey At Sea) The thin crack and right-hand edge of the diagonal overhangs. The hard climbing is above the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7
6
Gamle rev Top 50
(Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming. Popular...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6
7
Tromsø ekspressen Top 50
(The Tromsø Express) A fine route up the most prominent of the parallel grooves in the centre of the cliff. Three...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6
8
Lost Gandalf
This variation start to one of the adjacent routes is rather grassy though it does see quite a few ascents and queues are rare....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
5-
9
Gollum Top 50
An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Almost as good as...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
10
Smeagul
Plugs the gap between Gollum and Lost Gandalf. The first pitch follows cracks to the belay on Gollum, the second trends left up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5+
11
Gandalf's kamin
(Gandalf's Chimney) A more strenuous and awkward finish to Gandalf and easily combined with Lost Gandalf.1) 5, 40m. As for...
4 user comments
 
Graunchy
5+
12
Gandalf Top 50
A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches, each interesting, varied and well protected....
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
5
  • Latest Comments

    For GANDALF

    Lost Gandalf
    "Totally agree with Chris. Very nice rock and never crowded." 08/Jul

    Gandalf
    "The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Gun..." 08/Dec top50

    Gamle rev
    "Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun." 13/Jul top50

    Guns 'n' Roses
    "Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good." 29/May top50

    Gamle rev
    "Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?" 28/Jun top50

    Silmarillion
    "The pegs on pitch 3 are all gone." 29/Jul

    Gandalf's kamin
    "Just wondering if the rout is 5+, or just a 5 ?" 15/Jun

    Gandalf
    "The original finish (straight up from the Eagle's Nest) is quite fun - probably ..." 25/May top50

    Gollum
    "Thought 5 was fair enough for the first pitch. Gets a lot less traffic then Gan..." 06/Jul top50

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