Gandalf Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The fine broad buttress that makes up the main bulk of the cliff is home to many of its best routes. On the left are a compelling set of groovelines and to the right some striking cracklines - almost all of these give classic climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Edderkoppen
40m. (The Spider) Start below the left-hand end of the big slanting overhang in the middle of the wall.1) 6-, 25m. Trend...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7-
2
Tynne ting
35m. (Thin Things) Another bold pitch up the slabby rock below and right of the lower abseil point. The name is pointer to the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
6
3
Nøttolfs fristelse
45m. (Nøttolf's Temptation) A line based on the black water streak just to the left of the diagonal overlaps.1) 6+, 25m....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
7-
4
Nøtteliten
95m. An extension to Nøttolfs fristelse (pitch 1 of which is probably overgraded in the guidebook). 1) 6+, 25m. As for...
 
1 Stars
6+
5
Førstereisgutten
95m. (The Boy's First Journey At Sea) The thin crack and right-hand edge of the diagonal overhangs. The hard climbing is above...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7
6
Gamle rev Top 50
95m. (Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming....
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
6
7
Tromsø ekspressen Top 50
95m. (The Tromsø Express) A fine route up the most prominent of the parallel grooves in the centre of the cliff. Three...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
6
8
Lost Gandalf
This variation start to one of the adjacent routes is rather grassy though it does see quite a few ascents and queues are rare....
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
5-
9
Gollum Top 50
100m. An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Almost as...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
5
10
Smeagul
Plugs the gap between Gollum and Lost Gandalf. The first pitch follows cracks to the belay on Gollum, the second trends left up...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
5+
11
Gandalf's kamin
100m. (Gandalf's Chimney) A more strenuous and awkward finish to Gandalf and easily combined with Lost Gandalf.1) 5, 40m....
4 user comments
 
Graunchy
5+
12
Gandalf Top 50
100m. A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff by a fine series of pitches, each interesting, varied and well...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
5