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< Lille Festvåg  |  Junior Veggan >

Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
20 mins
Uphill

The bigger of the two Festvåg cliffs has a high concentration of good routes with easy access and it is quick drying with a sunny aspect. Approach - As for Lille Festvåg but, just uphill from the old granite block foundation, head to the right through several large boulders, then follow the Festvågtinden track up the back of the valley until you can traverse horizontally left across a very loose scree slope to the cliff base - take care! Descent - Walk down around the cliff’s right-hand side, back past the base of Skiløperen.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Skomaker Grus
A five pitch route that makes the most of the rock at the left-hand side of the cliff. If you are happy to accept a little...
 
1 Stars
6+
2
Johan Boyer
75m. Named after a well-known Norwegian 19th century writer. A short route that runs up to the grassy terrace up and left of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5+
3
Vikingjenta
75m. (The Viking Girl) A free variation to Johan Boyer's second pitch climbing the next crack system to the left. 1) 5+,...
 
1 Stars
Technical
6+
4
Kristaver
25m. The left-hand-crack system, starting through the black overhang. Quite sustained.
 
Pumpy
6-
5
Marja Myran
25m. Climb through the centre of the overhang to enter the easier upper cracks.
 6-
6
Elezeus Hylla
25m. Climb the right-hand-crack through the black bulges then follow the flakes above. A bit grassy but nice enough.
1 user comment
 5+
7
Kanales Gomon
25m. Start on the right and follow parallel cracks trending slightly left until it is possible to sidestep the bulges to reach...
 5+
8
Den Siste Viking
90m. (The Last Viking) The first route done on the cliff tackles the steepest central portion. The route can be extended by...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6
9
Running for Rasmus
90m. An interesting combination of pitches featuring some difficult jamming. Just left of the common start of Lundeklubben and...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7-
10
Luksusdyret
90m. (The Luxury Animal) Follows a line up cracks up the face just right of the groove that bounds the Stone Sausage. 1) 5,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6
11
Lundeklubben Top 50
90m. (The Puffin Club) A great classic, very popular with varied and sustained climbing up the striking right-facing corner...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6
12
Straight Albatross
90m. A good direct line leading to an unusual finish.1) 5+, 20m. Climb cracks to a belay below a black-streaked slab.2)...
 
1 Stars
6
13
Wandering Albatross
95m. A meandering variation to the previous route.1) 6-, 35m. Climb a prominent 5m tall corner, stepping back right onto a...
 
1 Stars
6
14
Fire forsøk
85m. (Four Tries) A sustained crack climb, the crux of which might require a bit of staying power. 1) 6-, 35m. Climb up the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
7-
15
Four Pitch Route
85m. A four (or three!) pitch route which offers a slightly easier finish to Fire forsøk. 1) 6-, 35m. As for Fire forsøk...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6-
16
Riz Raz
30m. The steep wall to the left of Skiløperen was originally a hard aid route Alpinisten. Now it gives an even harder free...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7+
17
Skiløperen Top 50
30m. (The Skier) The strikingly crack-line in the side-wall is very photogenic. It is easily ticked when descending from having...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6-
18
The Joker
35m. The right-trending crack leads to a ledge and possible stance. Step right again and commit to the hollow-sounding flakes....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
6-
19
Jammen, Jammen
Start over some blocks to reach a right-facing groove. Climb up this to a roof then follow an overhanging jamming crack...
 
2 Stars
6+
  • Latest Comments

    For FESTVÅG

    Fire forsøk
    "Jonas is right, even if the last pitch looks wide from the street, it is in fact..." 14/Jul

    Luksusdyret
    "The rock on the second pitch is a bit rotten going through the roof system, so 2..." 06/Aug

    Running for Rasmus
    "Maybe we did not understand where the last pitch goes? It was like 4+/5-?" 03/Aug

    Luksusdyret
    "The second pitch was fine but beware of the three loose blocks." 18/Jul

    Blod eller gull
    "The offwidth crack in the first pitch is pretty hard. At least if you are not us..." 15/Jul top50

    Gaukerisset
    "Tremendous second pitch, one of the best we did on the trip. Much easier than it..." 11/Jul top50

    Skiløperen
    "maybe not very hard for the grade, but sustained impressive climbing. 6- is ok." 29/May top50

    Månedans
    "We thought the second pitch was excellent and about as hard as the first one." 06/Aug top50

    Gaukerisset
    "Maybe the best single pitch hereabouts. Superb athletic climbing. As of July 201..." 25/Jul top50

    Fire forsøk
    "No big cams needed on the last pitch. One big cam (friend #3.5 or #4) helps on t..." 27/Jun

    Four Pitch Route
    "Quite a good route and not a pushover" 28/Jun

    Elezeus Hylla
    "Flaring cracks and big holds plus an overhanging start. Quite strenuous for a 5+..." 14/Jun

    Gammelosten
    "A fun variant (giving a 3rd climb once you've slogged up to the crag) is to clim..." 25/May

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