Dib Scar Routes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Sun and Shade
Uphill
15 mins
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The nettle-infested bowl is flanked on its left-hand side by some impressive bulging rock with routes giving sustained and powerful climbing. To the right of the main roofs the routes are less fierce and sometimes the rock is a bit dubious although on the routes described it is mostly solid. This is a good spot to head for in warm spells as it gets shade.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cauliflower
20m. The leftward-facing groove succumbs to a sturdy lay-back to the thread. Once around the bulge, move left to the other...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
2
The Fish and the Scales
20m. The line of bolts right of Cauliflower. Hard at the bottom and the top overlap. High in the grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
3
Final Demand
20m. An impressive line but it is often wet and the top has some suspect rock. Climb the dark groove to the top then step...
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
4
Symbols of the Soul
22m. A stunning route which tackles the most impressive section of the bulge.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
5
The Gemini Incident
22m. Another brilliant sport route. A hard start up the initial wall then easier moves above. Getting as far as the lip of the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
6
Central Wall
22m. The thread above the left-hand side of the roof can be reached by three methods. 1) Use a stick to clip the thread and...
 
2 Stars
Strong
E3 5c
7
I Travel
24m. From above the bulge on Central Wall, traverse rightwards along two breaks to below a thread. Move confidently up the wall...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
This Fear of Blocks
16m. An intimidating line starting just right of the low overhang. Move through the bulge and up to a tiny corner. Now head...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
9
Ration and Welfare
18m. Heave up to the thread above the shallow cave then pull right and climb the wall above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c
10
Elation And Despair
18m. Short hard bulge moving left into Ration and Welfare.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
11
Nettle Whine
18m. Climb the left-hand crack then traverse left almost as far as the tree. Follow the wall directly above and step right to a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
12
Old Dog New Tricks
18m. As for Nettle Whine but donÕt traverse as far. Climb direct past a bolt to the lower-off chain.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
13
Pension And Busfare
18m. A tight eliminate just right of the crack. Start up Passion and Warfare but continue just right of the crack.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
14
Passion and Warfare
18m. The wall beyond the two flake/cracks is home to this enjoyable and technical sport route. The normal method on the crux is...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
15
Division And Fanfare
Clip the same bolts as Passion and Warfare but stay on their right.
 7b
16
Mettle Nettle
18m. A good pitch that is low in the grade. The wall just right of the tree passing two pegs and finishing up a slim groove.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
17
Natural Born Runners
18m. Another fine little pitch. Good climbing on excellent rock. Start in the little recess and climb the wall. Finish up a...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
18
Back Burner
Climb direct to the niche (hidden peg) and pull into it. The wall above leads to a finishing groove. Belay on the top.
 E2 5c
19
The White Rose
Start left of a tree on the crag and climb up passing the niche of Back Burner until you can step left and join it at the...
 E2 5b
20
Revived Forty Five
Start just left of the tree and climb up to a small flake. Step left and move up slightly rightwards to a good hold (peg). Step...
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For DIB SCAR

    Passion and Warfare
    "I went back to this today for another look - it took a while to work out where e..." 17/Apr

    Passion and Warfare
    "I did this again a few weeks ago and still think it worth 2 stars if not 3. It w..." 17/Aug

    This Fear of Blocks
    "Has seen the blushes of a few notables - who claim it is F7a" 16/Aug

    Mettle Nettle
    "Brilliant continuous wall climbing with hidden delights. It's E3 to look at, but..." 12/Jul

    Passion and Warfare
    "Spoilt by two bollox eliminates squeezed in on either side, making it really har..." 13/May

    Natural Born Runners
    "Top 50? Oh dear." 31/Jul

    Nettle Whine
    "now 6a+/6b. nicer than 'Old dog' to the right and a better warm up" 16/May

    Natural Born Runners
    "I'm sorry but this is a non-entity of a route. Not actually bad as such but you ..." 21/May

    Passion and Warfare
    "The original route and the best way up the wall.Intricate and fingery-excellent...." 12/Feb

    Natural Born Runners
    "Did this route in 1997, thought it was great. Never too taxing, relatively well ..." 11/Feb

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