Main Cliff

Trad
Morning sun
Up and Down
15 mins
Sheltered

A fine wall tapering down towards the sea, which offers some excellent short routes on great rock. Approach (see map on page ) - Scramble up the grassy left-trending ramp to the left of Svenska diedret to a flat area then follow a ledge to the right of a gully (a little exposed, but with large holds) to reach the open slabs below the cliff.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stormvarsel
20m. (Storm Warning) A pleasant route traversing above the waves. Start at the lowest point of ramp and climb cracks to reach a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5
2
Lett bris
16m. The long bubbly crack above the base of the ramp gives a good lower grade pitch.
 
1 Stars
4
3
Liten storm
16m. Either of two cracks leads to a junction. Continue with difficulty up the yellow streak to reach easier ground.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
5+
4
Full storm
16m. Climb the crack system in the steepest part of the face to hard moves up to and past the highest break.
 
1 Stars
Technical
5+
5
Malabarsk
16m. The central line on the wall has a testing finale up a thin flake. Bolder than the other routes hereabouts.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6
6
Sterk storm
16m. The right-hand crack system on the steep part of the wall has a well-positioned crux.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6
7
Orkan
14m. The wide crack/narrow chimney is steeper than it looks
 
Pumpy
5
8
Sterk kuling
14m. Twin cracks just right have a steep and awkward exit.
 
Pumpy
5+
9
Laber bris
16m. The juggy groove on massive holds to an exit on the right.
 
1 Stars
4
10
Stiv kuling
14m. Trend right to gain the flakes and climb these to a finish up the scoop above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5+
11
Liten kuling
18m. The left-hand crack is a good pitch. Climb it to the ramp the balance right until an upward exit is possible.
 
1 Stars
5+
12
Frisk bris
14m. Climb the left-hand side of the steep face on amazing holds, first right then left to the ramp. Finish above and right.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5+
13
Heavy Weather
14m. The right-hand side of the face on jugs to an exit through the bulges.
 
1 Stars
5
14
Værvarsel
14m. The right-hand crack leads to a fork, finish to the right or, a little harder, up the thinner left-hand version.
 
1 Stars
5
  • Latest Comments

    For PARADISET

    Butter Arms
    "nothing smaller than friend #1 / camalot #.5 needed (except a small wire to aid ..." 15/Aug top50

    Love Me Two Times
    "There's a nice climb up flakes trending up left from this hand-crack start (whic..." 06/Aug

    Living in Paradise
    "We prefer approaching past the route Demonstranten." 02/Aug top50

    Living in Paradise
    "Its possible to reach the start direct from the sector Dashboard light, but only..." 29/May top50

    Venstre risset
    "Much harder than the grade suggest: around 5+ thought our 3-member team." 14/Jun

    Living in Paradise
    "Excellent crack route, good fun!" 06/Apr top50

    Vågarisset
    "I would call it an off-width crack..." 10/Aug

    By the Dashboard Light
    "Bold! Didn't really manage to protect the first half (some aliens, but I didn't..." 28/Jul top50

    X-crement
    "An OK route in my opinion. :o)" 21/Jul

    X-crement
    "That's because we shifted most of it! Chris" 16/Jul

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