Storpillaren

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Uphill
60 mins
Seepage

Once known for obvious reasons as 'The Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten', this massive arrow-head of sheer granite dominates Vågakallen's intimidating North Face. Currently two routes tackle the impressive left-hand side of the pillar - on the left Storm Pillar, put up by Mike and Louise Turner in 2003 and, on the right, Freya, put up by Robert and Daniela Jasper in 1998. Both routes feature hard free and aid climbing, with little in the way of fixed gear, and should be considered as very major undertakings for teams experienced in long multi-day ascents. Approach - From the edge of Kallevatnet, scramble up scree and rough ground to the face, heading to the right of the huge curving roof.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Storm Pillar
865m. An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on superb rock. Pitch 11 may eventually go free at around 7c+...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
7+ A3
2
Freya
800m. A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. The...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Fluttery
8 A3+
3
Storpillaren Top 50
600m. (The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long remote and serious, though less so an all counts, than the routes to the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7-
4
Genus Locy
610m. If you get stuck in a queue on Storpillaren, or have already done it half-a-dozen times and fancy a change, here is one...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6+
5
Søring variant
95m. (Southern's Variation) Another variation about which little is know. From the stance below Storpillaren pitch 3, climb the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6+
  • Latest Comments

    For VÅGAKALLEN

    Storpillaren
    "The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 place..." 23/Jul top50

    Storpillaren
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Mygga
    "A kind of an adventure climb with some very good climbing as well. 2 Stars are c..." 29/May

    Wee Beastie
    "The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally ..." 23/May

    Storpillaren
    "Regarding the descend I think that most partys should count on a little bit more..." 23/Aug top50

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