Adjacent Areas
< Myggapillaren | Nordryggen >
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Uphill
60 minsSeepage
Windy
Once known for obvious reasons as 'The Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten', this massive arrow-head of sheer granite dominates Vågakallen's intimidating North Face. Currently two routes tackle the impressive left-hand side of the pillar - on the left Storm Pillar, put up by Mike and Louise Turner in 2003 and, on the right, Freya, put up by Robert and Daniela Jasper in 1998. Both routes feature hard free and aid climbing, with little in the way of fixed gear, and should be considered as very major undertakings for teams experienced in long multi-day ascents. Approach - From the edge of Kallevatnet, scramble up scree and rough ground to the face, heading to the right of the huge curving roof.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Storm Pillar 865m. An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on superb rock. Pitch 11 may eventually go free at around 7c+... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Fluttery | 7+ A3 |
2 |
Freya 800m. A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. The... | 3 Stars Technical Strong Fluttery | 8 A3+ |
3 |
Storpillaren Top 50 600m. (The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long remote and serious, though less so an all counts, than the routes to the... 7 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | 7- |
4 |
Genus Locy 610m. If you get stuck in a queue on Storpillaren, or have already done it half-a-dozen times and fancy a change, here is one... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6+ |
5 |
Søring variant 95m. (Southern's Variation) Another variation about which little is know. From the stance below Storpillaren pitch 3, climb the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6+ |
