North Face

Adjacent Areas
< Myggapillaren  |  Nordryggen >

Trad
Sun and Shade
30 mins
Uphill
Windy

Once known for obvious reasons as 'The Bonatti Pillar of Lofoten', this massive arrow-head of sheer granite dominates Vågakallen's intimidating North Face. The current set of routes on this pillar mostly feature hard free and/or aid climbing, with little in the way of fixed gear. All routes should be considered as very major undertakings for teams experienced in multi-day ascents.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Storm Pillar
An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on superb rock. Pitch 11 may eventually go free at around 7c+ with...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
7+ A3
2
Freya
A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. The...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
8 A3
3
The Corner Kick
This major hard route follows the first 13 pitches of Freya to then break off left up the obvious groove to the left of the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
9-
4
Storpillaren Top 50
The Great Pillar) A Lofoten classic - long remote and serious, though less so on all counts, than the routes to the left. The...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7
5
Genus Locy
If you get stuck in a queue on Storpillaren, or have already done it half-a-dozen times and fancy a change, here is one idea....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6+ A2
6
Søring variant
(Southern's Variation) Another variation about which little is known. From the stance below Storpillaren pitch 3, climb the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6+ A1
  • Latest Comments

    For VÅGAKALLEN

    Nordryggen
    "Changed from *** to N4+ ***, no votes" 27/May top50

    Storpillaren
    "The approach is depending on the water. If wet, you might take a rope on 2 place..." 23/Jul top50

    Storpillaren
    "Hello, It's question about rack recommendation, assuming we intend to climmb li..." 22/Mar top50

    Mygga
    "A kind of an adventure climb with some very good climbing as well. 2 Stars are c..." 29/May

    Wee Beastie
    "The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally ..." 23/May

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