Adjacent Areas
< South Face | The Bulge Area >
Trad and Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
1 minSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The huge umbella of Kilnseys main overhang shelters some of Yorkshires great pitches. The lower wall is a safe bet in the rain as long as seepage has not started and has a good number of boulder problems at its base should the crag be out of condition. Guidebook page 262.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Peepshow The most ameanable route on this section of crag. Swing right at second bolt and then take easiest line to lower off using... 3 user comments | Strong | 6b+ |
2 |
Sidekick Hard and reachy past the first bulge. Continue above to the lower-off on the arete. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Strong | 7a+ |
3 |
Sideshow The next line of bolts is also hard in its lower section. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
4 |
Metal Mickey Short lived but very powerful line just left of Metal Guru. Finish as for Metal Guru. Route has not been reclimbed since loss... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 8b |
5 |
Metal Guru The groove leads to a vertical wall. Finish leftwards. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c |
6 |
Last Action Hero Extention of Metal Guru to merge with Bullet. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
7 |
Bullet Thin climbing leads to a lower-off where the angle gets steep. Continue to the top break. Pull over this to a lower-off on the... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
8 |
Man With a Gun Follow Bullet to the lower-off where the angle gets steep. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
9 |
Hardy Annual An eliminate on the Superdirectissima starting up a short groove down and left of the main corner. Connecting the groove to the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical | 7b |
10 |
Cold Steal A squeezed-in eliminate which borrows holds from the adjacent routes. Start up Hardy Annual and follow the resin bolts. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a |
11 |
Showtime A magnificent long pitch with some wild steep climbing on its upper section. Follow Hardy Annual to the corner, then pull back... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
12 |
The Superdirectissima A slightly wandering line but with some fine climbing. Start down and right of the corner and ape up leftwards past some... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
13 |
Jump Leads Climb direct from the initial thread on The Superdirectissima, via a thread and peg to rejoin The Superdirectissima for its... | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
Wiseblood A bouldery start and wall above lead past two good pegs. Hard moves left and up via a thin thread access a ledge and peg.... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
15 |
Diminishing Returns Start up Deja Vu and move directly up to is twin threads. Take the black streak above to a bolt and continue on up to peg.... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
16 |
Deja Vu An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall.... 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong | E5 6b |
17 |
Visitation A fine direct line up the vague arete left of Deja Vu. From the first bolt on Deja Vu climb direct past 2 bolts until level... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
18 |
Face Value Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped now, hence the polish. Pull... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E5 6a |
19 |
Full Value Up Face Value to its thread then via slim groove above to another thread. The black groove accesses the chain lower-off of The... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
20 |
The Directissima Top 50 The superb curving corner is getting a bit polished these days but remains a wonderful climb. Bolts have made it a tidy sport... 10 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6c |
21 |
Mandela The roof that they said would never go free. A magnificent route along the obvious diagonal line which is often wet. 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
22 |
Next Direct Moves out right from high on The Directissima to climb the difficult hanging rib. | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
23 |
Dreamtime The elegant groove breaking out of The Directissima succumbs to sustained and powerful bridging in a wild position. 9 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
24 |
Sticky Wicket The left-hand of a trio of sport routes up the wall left of the corner. This one wanders left after crossing the initial roofs... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | 7b |
25 |
Indian Summer The awesome extension of Sticky Wicket to the main break. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8b+ |
26 |
The Ashes Top 50 A brilliant route up the line of triangular grooves. The initial wall and groove leads to two juggy pockets. Surge up the wall... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
27 |
All Out An extremely impressive route which tackles the desperate thin bulging wall all the way to the break. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
28 |
50 for 5 To the lower off mid way up All Out remains a tough and popular challenge. Twin resin anchor lower-off. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
29 |
Stumped A filler-in direct up the blank wall right of the vegetated corner. Start up the corner before moving on to the right wall. | Technical | 7a+ |
30 |
Detox Starts just left of Comedy. Pull around the bulge and take the wall directly above. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | 7b+ |
