Directissima Area

Adjacent Areas
< South Buttress  |  The Bulge Area >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The huge limestone umbrella of Kilnsey's Main Overhang shelters some great pitches. It also has a good number of boulder problems at its base should the upper section be out of condition. The huge overhang shelters the lower wall and allows climbing in the rain as long as seepage is not present which can be a problem during prolonged wet periods. It can be cold and breezy at times and during the warmer months midges are problematic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Peepshow
The most amenable route on this section of the crag. Swing right at the second bolt (hanger on first missing) and then take the...
3 user comments
 
Strong
6b+
2
Sidekick
A hard and reachy start passes the first bulge. Continue above to the lower-off on the arete.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7a+
3
Sideshow
Hard in its lower section. Sideline, 7b - is a link-up moving right into Metal Guru at the 4th bolt of either Sidekick or...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
4
Metal Mickey
A short-lived but very powerful line just left of Metal Guru. Finish as for Metal Guru.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8b
5
Metal Guru
The powerful groove leads to a vertical wall and welcome rest. Step left and climb the steepening wall above.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
6
Last Action Hero
A fine but very tough line. An extension of Metal Guru that merges with Bullet in its upper reaches.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
7
Man With a Gun
Follow Bullet to the lower-off where the angle steepens.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
8
Bullet
The extension of Man With a Gun. Continue up the ever-leaning wall to the top break and pull over to a lower-off on the lip.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
9
Cold Steal
A popular sustained and technical route with a powerful start up the steep groove. Start up Hardy Annual and follow the resin...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
10
Stolen
The powerful continuation above Cold Steal to the next big break, then finish as for Bullet.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
11
Steal the Show
From the top of Cold Steal, step right and continue as for Showtime.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
12
Showtime
A magnificent long pitch with some wild climbing in its upper section. Follow Hardy Annual to the corner, then pull back left...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
13
Hardy Annual
A left-hand start to the Superdirectissima with a direct continuation. Start up the short groove down and left of the main...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7a+
14
Epic Adventures
Climb all of Hardy Annual and continue via pure endurance climbing all the way over the top roof. No really hard moves but...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8c
15
The Superdirectissima
A curiously-named wandering line but with some fine climbing. A powerful start gains jugs up and right (thread) move up and...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
16
Jump Leads
Climb direct from the initial thread on Superdirectissima, past another thread and peg, to rejoin Superdirectissima for its...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
17
Jump Leads into Wise Blood
From midway up Jump Leads climb up and right to ledge on Wise Blood. Finish as for Wise Blood.
 E6 6b
18
Wise Blood
After a bouldery start the wall above leads past two good pegs. Hard moves left and up via a thin thread access a ledge and...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
19
Diminishing Returns
Start up Deja Vu and move directly up to its twin threads. Take the black streak above to a bolt and continue up to a rest in a...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
7c
20
Visitation
A fine direct line up the vague arete left of Deja Vu. From the first bolt on Deja Vu climb direct past three bolts until level...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
21
Deja Vu
An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall - the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5 6b
22
Full Value
Follow Face Value to its thread then climb a slim groove above to another thread. The next black groove gains a chain lower-off...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
23
Face Value
Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped, hence the polish. Pull through...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
24
Guns in the Sky
A spectacular continuation from the top of Full Value through the huge Main Overhang roof, to join and finish up Mandela.
 8b+
25
The Directissima Top 50
The superb curving-corner is polished but remains a wonderful climb. Bolts have made it a sport route but for the full 3-star...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
26
Mandela
The line through Kilnsey's Main Overhang that they said would never go free. A magnificent route along the obvious diagonal...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
27
Next Direct
Move out right from high on The Directissima to climb the short-lived but difficult hanging rib.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
28
Aboriginal Sin
Take a rightward line out across the roof to a lower-off around the lip. Old gear.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c+
29
Dreamtime
The elegant groove breaking out of The Directissima succumbs to sustained and powerful bridging in a wild position.
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
30
Sticky Wicket
A popular and tricky little pitch. Pull over the low roof and wander leftwards with increasing difficulty to a lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
31
Indian Summer
The awesome extension of Sticky Wicket. Strenuous climbing leads to a desperate finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
32
The Ashes Top 50
A brilliant route up the line of triangular grooves. The initial wall and groove leads to two juggy pockets. Continue up the...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
33
50 for 5
To the lower-off mid way up All Out remains a tough and popular challenge. Linking into the upper section of The Ashes (without...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
34
All Out
An extremely impressive route which tackles the thin bulging wall above the 50 for 5 lower-off all the way to the break.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
35
Contraflow
Start up The Directissima and go left to the thread on Face Value and on to gain Deja Vu. Move up to a thread, clip a high bolt...
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
36
The Big C
Climb Contraflow to the Deja Vu thread before heading back rightwards across Face Value to meet up with The Directissima....
 
1 Stars
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

    Sticky Wicket
    "I did this after Frankie and found it OK, easier for the tall I think which mayb..." 12/Sep

    The Last Gasp Finish
    "The slight rest in the niche is hands off." 29/Aug

    Quiet Flight
    "Air rage 7c+ goes direct through the roof where QF goes left." 26/Aug

    Comedy
    "Ascended the day before yesterday by myself (age 35) after much hanging about. W..." 12/Aug top50

    Tragedy
    "Hard power endurance. To a poor rest then some sapping moves to a run out finish..." 12/Aug

    Little Ernie
    "Now fully bolted. Told that holds have come off above the break after the boulde..." 12/Aug

    Alternative
    "Very loose boulder between third and fourth bolt. Temping to use as hand hold, b..." 09/Aug

    No More Jumping to Conclusions
    "well worth doing, barely inferior too frankie. nice bit of rock on the main sec..." 30/Jul

    Slab Culture
    "As of July '09, and until I or someone else gets to it, be very very wary of the..." 27/Jul

    Mr. Nice
    "A tad rattly in places, but awesome climbing. A bit of glue would improve matter..." 24/Jul

    Sticky Wicket
    "Very hard for 7b, failed on this when i did frankie and slabculture" 23/Jul

    Highway 395
    "Good fun route up a good direct line. Easy start full of no-hands rests and one ..." 22/Jul

    Sidekick
    "Beware of loose rock near lower off. Added maillon to last clip if you don't fan..." 20/Jun

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