Directissima Area

Adjacent Areas
< South Face  |  The Bulge Area >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
1 min
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The huge umbella of Kilnseys main overhang shelters some of Yorkshires great pitches. The lower wall is a safe bet in the rain as long as seepage has not started and has a good number of boulder problems at its base should the crag be out of condition. Guidebook page 262.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Peepshow
The most ameanable route on this section of crag. Swing right at second bolt and then take easiest line to lower off using...
3 user comments
 
Strong
6b+
2
Sidekick
Hard and reachy past the first bulge. Continue above to the lower-off on the arete.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7a+
3
Sideshow
The next line of bolts is also hard in its lower section.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
4
Metal Mickey
Short lived but very powerful line just left of Metal Guru. Finish as for Metal Guru. Route has not been reclimbed since loss...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8b
5
Metal Guru
The groove leads to a vertical wall. Finish leftwards.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
Last Action Hero
Extention of Metal Guru to merge with Bullet.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
7
Bullet
Thin climbing leads to a lower-off where the angle gets steep. Continue to the top break. Pull over this to a lower-off on the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
8
Man With a Gun
Follow Bullet to the lower-off where the angle gets steep.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
9
Hardy Annual
An eliminate on the Superdirectissima starting up a short groove down and left of the main corner. Connecting the groove to the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
7b
10
Cold Steal
A squeezed-in eliminate which borrows holds from the adjacent routes. Start up Hardy Annual and follow the resin bolts.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
11
Showtime
A magnificent long pitch with some wild steep climbing on its upper section. Follow Hardy Annual to the corner, then pull back...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
12
The Superdirectissima
A slightly wandering line but with some fine climbing. Start down and right of the corner and ape up leftwards past some...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Jump Leads
Climb direct from the initial thread on The Superdirectissima, via a thread and peg to rejoin The Superdirectissima for its...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
14
Wiseblood
A bouldery start and wall above lead past two good pegs. Hard moves left and up via a thin thread access a ledge and peg....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
Diminishing Returns
Start up Deja Vu and move directly up to is twin threads. Take the black streak above to a bolt and continue on up to peg....
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
16
Deja Vu
An excellent wall climb on perfect rock. Start below some threads and power through the bulges to the gentler upper wall....
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5 6b
17
Visitation
A fine direct line up the vague arete left of Deja Vu. From the first bolt on Deja Vu climb direct past 2 bolts until level...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
18
Face Value
Steady climbing with a bit of a run-out. It remains a good lead although it is often top-roped now, hence the polish. Pull...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
19
Full Value
Up Face Value to its thread then via slim groove above to another thread. The black groove accesses the chain lower-off of The...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
20
The Directissima Top 50
The superb curving corner is getting a bit polished these days but remains a wonderful climb. Bolts have made it a tidy sport...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
21
Mandela
The roof that they said would never go free. A magnificent route along the obvious diagonal line which is often wet.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
22
Next Direct
Moves out right from high on The Directissima to climb the difficult hanging rib.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
23
Dreamtime
The elegant groove breaking out of The Directissima succumbs to sustained and powerful bridging in a wild position.
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
24
Sticky Wicket
The left-hand of a trio of sport routes up the wall left of the corner. This one wanders left after crossing the initial roofs...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
25
Indian Summer
The awesome extension of Sticky Wicket to the main break.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8b+
26
The Ashes Top 50
A brilliant route up the line of triangular grooves. The initial wall and groove leads to two juggy pockets. Surge up the wall...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
27
All Out
An extremely impressive route which tackles the desperate thin bulging wall all the way to the break.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
28
50 for 5
To the lower off mid way up All Out remains a tough and popular challenge. Twin resin anchor lower-off.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
29
Stumped
A filler-in direct up the blank wall right of the vegetated corner. Start up the corner before moving on to the right wall.
 
Technical
7a+
30
Detox
Starts just left of Comedy. Pull around the bulge and take the wall directly above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

    Sticky Wicket
    "I did this after Frankie and found it OK, easier for the tall I think which mayb..." 12/Sep

    The Last Gasp Finish
    "The slight rest in the niche is hands off." 29/Aug

    Quiet Flight
    "Air rage 7c+ goes direct through the roof where QF goes left." 26/Aug

    Comedy
    "Ascended the day before yesterday by myself (age 35) after much hanging about. W..." 12/Aug top50

    Tragedy
    "Hard power endurance. To a poor rest then some sapping moves to a run out finish..." 12/Aug

    Little Ernie
    "Now fully bolted. Told that holds have come off above the break after the boulde..." 12/Aug

    Alternative
    "Very loose boulder between third and fourth bolt. Temping to use as hand hold, b..." 09/Aug

    No More Jumping to Conclusions
    "well worth doing, barely inferior too frankie. nice bit of rock on the main sec..." 30/Jul

    Slab Culture
    "As of July '09, and until I or someone else gets to it, be very very wary of the..." 27/Jul

    Mr. Nice
    "A tad rattly in places, but awesome climbing. A bit of glue would improve matter..." 24/Jul

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