Adjacent Areas
< Trolltrappen | Tranedansen >
The main bulk of Trollfestningen is dominated by some striking cracks and grooves beneath a huge capping roof high on the wall. The left-arching groove system is the classic Odins Bue which is one of the major ticks on the wall. On the right-hand side are the classic pitches of Colibrien and Spurven. Approach Pitches - The routes start on the mid height ledge which is best reached by doing the first 2 pitches of Colibrien or Spurven. Then scramble about 50m to the left to gain the ledge. Descent - Cross the top of the cliff then head down grassy ledges to the right (northwest), finally climbing down to the top bolt station on Spurven. Four abseils lead down Spurven to the base (40m, 45m, 40m, 50m) see topo on page §§§.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Approach Pitch 60m. The normal approach to all the routes on the cliff. This can be soloed by the confident though the presence of wet streaks... 2 user comments | 3 | |
2 |
Colibrien 180m. (The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 6- |
3 |
Swedish Highway Blues 210m. The left-hand arete of the crag in five long pitches. The exact line is uncertain, and some aid is needed - four blade... | 1 Stars Pumpy | 6+ |
4 |
Fingerrisset 40m. (The Finger Crack) A fine finger-crack splitting the big slab left of the Odin's Bue overlaps gives sustained and well... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 6- |
5 |
Odins bue Top 50 200m. (Odin’s Bow) One of Lofoten’s most sought after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliff’s... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | 7 |
6 |
Cmelák 180m. (The Bumble Bee) A major route up the soaring buttress to the right of Odins Bue. Carry a big aid rack including a full... | 2 Stars Technical | 5 A3 |
7 |
Nemesis trollkirka 110m. (Nemesis of the Troll Church) An good aid climb up the centre of the big smooth wall in the centre of the cliff. This is... | Technical | ?? A3+ |
8 |
Spurven 170m. (The Sparrow) The first route on Trollfestningen and an excellent outing though the line involves a poorly protected wide... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery Graunchy | 6+ |
9 |
Spurven/Colbrien 200m. A devious but popular combination that avoids the wide crack on Spurven by a long loop out to the left. Included here so... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | 5+ |
10 |
Havørnen 170m. (The Sea Eagle) A link-up of several strenuous cracks gives a worthwhile combination.1) 2) 5- or 5+, 60m. Climb the... | 2 Stars Pumpy | 6+ |
