Trollsfestningen Main

Adjacent Areas
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No sun
20 mins
Uphill
Seepage

The main bulk of Trollfestningen is dominated by some striking cracks and grooves beneath a huge capping roof high on the wall. The left-arching groove system is the classic Odins Bue which is one of the major ticks on the wall. On the right-hand side are the classic pitches of Colibrien and Spurven. Approach Pitches - The routes start on the mid height ledge which is best reached by doing the first 2 pitches of Colibrien or Spurven. Then scramble about 50m to the left to gain the ledge. Descent - Cross the top of the cliff then head down grassy ledges to the right (northwest), finally climbing down to the top bolt station on Spurven. Four abseils lead down Spurven to the base (40m, 45m, 40m, 50m) see topo on page §§§.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Approach Pitch
60m. The normal approach to all the routes on the cliff. This can be soloed by the confident though the presence of wet streaks...
2 user comments
 3
2
Colibrien
180m. (The Hummingbird) Three fine pitches lead to the upper grass terrace. From here the usual way on is to join Spurven, but...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6-
3
Swedish Highway Blues
210m. The left-hand arete of the crag in five long pitches. The exact line is uncertain, and some aid is needed - four blade...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6+
4
Fingerrisset
40m. (The Finger Crack) A fine finger-crack splitting the big slab left of the Odin's Bue overlaps gives sustained and well...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6-
5
Odins bue Top 50
200m. (Odin’s Bow) One of Lofoten’s most sought after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliff’s...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7
6
Cmelák
180m. (The Bumble Bee) A major route up the soaring buttress to the right of Odins Bue. Carry a big aid rack including a full...
 
2 Stars
Technical
5 A3
7
Nemesis trollkirka
110m. (Nemesis of the Troll Church) An good aid climb up the centre of the big smooth wall in the centre of the cliff. This is...
 
Technical
?? A3+
8
Spurven
170m. (The Sparrow) The first route on Trollfestningen and an excellent outing though the line involves a poorly protected wide...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
Graunchy
6+
9
Spurven/Colbrien
200m. A devious but popular combination that avoids the wide crack on Spurven by a long loop out to the left. Included here so...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5+
10
Havørnen
170m. (The Sea Eagle) A link-up of several strenuous cracks gives a worthwhile combination.1) 2) 5- or 5+, 60m. Climb the...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6+
  • Latest Comments

    For TROLLFESTNINGEN

    Anachronism
    "Haven't heard of anyone else climbing this excellent slab/face climb (it's at th..." 06/Aug

    Fingerrisset
    "Agree with jukka. Very impressive, much easier then it looks." 29/May

    The Approach Pitch
    "My 60m rope was not long enough to reach the belay station. Prepare to solo/simu..." 15/Jan

    Trolltrappen
    "This is true. Sorry for that, wrote too sloppy..." 22/Jul

    Odins bue
    "The best route I have done in Lofoten. Bring lots and lots of friend #1.5 and l..." 22/Jul top50

    Trolltrappen
    "Rumours has it that the second pitch is 6+ not 7+ as given in the guidebook... P..." 06/Jul

    Colibrien
    "In comparison to the other commenters, I found it all pretty much as the grades ..." 28/Mar

    Colibrien
    "I thought the 3rd pitch the crux and the peg, in 2003 at least, worthless. Worth..." 27/Mar

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