Dihedral Wall Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Bulge Area  |  Optional Extra Area >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
1 min
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The distinctive left-curving overlap of Dihedral Wall, the appealing corner of Balas and the walls on either side provide something for most tastes - some easier sport pitches, some trickier stuff and a trio of top notch trad routes. Some routes stay dry in the rain as long as seepage is not present. It can be cold and breezy at times and during the warmer months midges are problematic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Organ Grinder
The long left arete is a tempting line but pretty loose.
 
Loose
E5 6a
2
Witches Brew
Varied climbing up the right-hand side of the arete. The start requires a fierce pull through the initial overhang.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
3
Frankie Comes to Kilnsey Top 50
A tremendous pitch taking the steep wall to the left of Balas. Continuously pressing moves and an easy-to-fluff finish.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
4
Balas
An awesome line with some equally impressive and quality climbing. Climb the corner to the bulge and then head out left with...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
5
Sabbath's Theatre
The huge intimidating wall to the right of Balas. Trend up rightwards across the wall to the lower-off of Dihedral Wall and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
6
The Puppeteer
A direct version of Sabbath's Theatre that is steeper than first impressions suggest. A tough 8a.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
7
Drenka
A left-hand finish to The Puppeteer. Technical and pumpy.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
8
Relax
A very serious pitch taking the low bulge and wall beneath the lower-off of Dihedral Wall. A classic of its genre but it will...
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E7 6b
9
China Crisis
A very big pitch with the crux at the start, a sustained central section and hard moves again at the top. High in the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
10
Mr. Nice
Follow the line of bolts up the wall just left of the corner of Dihedral Wall to the overlap. Pull straight up on to the very...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
11
The Jekyll
Follow Mr. Nice to the overlap and then take the pumpy right-hand line - the easier of the pair.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c+
12
Dihedral Wall
An excellent, well protected route following the leftward-curving overlap to a lower-off.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
13
Open Road
An appealing and varied outing up the steep corner cracks and right wall with one hard section. Climb the slim corner and pull...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
14
Silk Road
Follow Open Road to where it moves right. Move left into The Jekyll and climb up this for three bolts. Traverse left to finish...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
15
Highway 395
A more sustained and pumpy finish to Open Road. Climb Open Road on to the right-hand wall and then take the left line of bolts...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
16
Arch Rival
A bold pitch moving right out of Open Road onto the steep wall before heading up (peg) and then onwards to a flake in the...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
17
Achilles Heel
Take the crack just right of the start of Open Road to a peg. Move up and left to the peg and flake of Arch Rival. Go right and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
18
Architrave
Climb the wall before moving left and up to gain the thread on Achilles Heel. Finish up this to the lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

    Sticky Wicket
    "I did this after Frankie and found it OK, easier for the tall I think which mayb..." 12/Sep

    The Last Gasp Finish
    "The slight rest in the niche is hands off." 29/Aug

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