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This is the right-hand of several large, south-facing rock buttress rising above Route 19, two km east of the Svolværgeita. The route is one of Lofoten’s older classics featuring some complicated route finding. The route’s reputation for loose rock has been rather overdone, as most of the loose stuff has long gone. Protection is good throughout, but carry several large sized nuts or Friends (up to a #4) to protect the crux jamming crack. A fine, scenic, and lengthy expedition considering its roadside setting!
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Approach - Park on the right just before the sharp bend leading up to the Svolvær Airport Tunnel, 2km east of Svolværgeita. The...