Poema de Roca

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

Poema de Roca is the tallest section of the Frontales wall and has a large oval cave at its base - the Poema Cave. The cave is one of El Chorro's most famous sections of crag. The climbs are mostly hard and steep, however their quality and popularity, combined with the fact that they rarely get wet, means that they are pretty slick when it is warm. For the majority of climbers the lower wall of the cave is the limit of ambition whilst the extensions that lead out to the cave lip rarely see attempts. Even less frequented are the exceptional long multi-pitch climbs that take on the huge headwall above the cave. The crag goes into the shade in the late afternoon and climbing is possible in the rain. Guidebook page 78.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Kervala
35m. The blank streaked wall left of cave.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
8b
2
Maquina cualquiera
The easiest of the big lines. Start at the left edge of the cave. 1) 7a+, 2) 6c+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7b+, 5) 7a+, 6) 6b+. Abseil off.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
3
El complot
27m. Super steep line around the left edge of the cave.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
4
La villa strangiato
15m. Slots and pockets up the left wall of the cave. Popular.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
5
Eye of the Storm Top 50
19m. Start up a wide crack at the back of the cave.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
6
Thunder struck
19m. Butch climbing to the Eye of the Storm lower-off in the middle of the roof.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
7
Swimming Through a Shark Attack Top 50
19m. Steep blobs to the Eye of the Storm finish. Brilliant.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
8
Shark extention
26m. Connect Shark attack to the first belay of Maquina.....
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
9
Poema de Roca (P1) Top 50
23m. A fun, and pumpy romp up steep tufas and cracks.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
10
Viejos rockeros
24m. Direct above the first half of Poema de Roca pitch 1.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8a+
11
Poema de Roca
The route of the wall in six big pitches. The pitch grades are 1) 7a, 2) 8a+, 3) 7b, 4) 7c+, 5) 7a, 6) 6c. Abseil off.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
12
Licantropia de plenilunio
12m. A variation second pitch to Poema de Roca full version.
 
Strong
7c
13
Rima libra
23m. A hard direct on Poema de Roca.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
14
Viejo traidor Top 50
25m. A tremendous sustained route with a tricky climax. The extension is Sarracenos - grade unknown.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
15
Morritos jaeger
24m. A hard pitch. There is an often-climbed variation which wanders around up an easier S-shaped line at 7a+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
16
Viejo amigo
23m. A flowstone start leads to a nasty crux. The left-hand extention is Via de Rudolf, 7c+ and the right-hand extension is Los...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
7a
17
Newie
22m. Left of the flowstone edge of Garcia aguas.
3 user comments
 6b+
18
García aguas
22m. Good climbing up the flowstone. The left-hand extension is Mamacita, 8a and the right-hand extension is El ave fenix, 8a.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b
19
Escorpion
23m. The prominent rib is actually the first pitch of an 11 pitch mixed (A1) route that reaches the top of the wall.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
20
The splits
20m. A blank wall to a choice of finishes. The right-hand line is 7b.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
21
Slimbo
20m. The thin crack in a steep wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
22
Stonker
20m. The cracks on the right-hand side of the steep wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6b
23
La Princesa Carol
20m. The grey flowstone and tufa right of the steep wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5c
24
Talibania
28m. The steep right-hand side of the cave. 7c to the first lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
25
Vivac porus Top 50
28m. A long pitch left of a corner that defines.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
26
El señor de las tinieblas
A popular first pitch. 1) 6b+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
27
Fahrenheit
10m. The short arete right of the corner.
2 user comments
 6c
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  • Latest Comments

    For FRONTALES

    Seco y Pedro
    "The new route up the soaring groove to the right looks quite hard but is a reall..." 28/May top50

    Putifero
    "I agree that the route would now be better described as 6a. A long nice route it..." 31/Jan top50

    El osito polar
    "extra bolted, pay attention at a loose rock on the middle" 06/Jan

    New Bolts
    "Hard to tell were the route is. 2 pitches. P1 18m, 4, non-descript; P2 32m 6a, e..." 31/Dec

    Un monton de chatarra
    "3 bolts are now missing in the middle of this, so you have to finish off on Big ..." 23/Dec

    Agip
    "Nice route. More like 6b, and needs extra gear between bolt 3 and 4 unless you e..." 12/Apr

    Quatro elephants
    "You DO get down from the top on a 60m rope. If the belayer is clipped to the bol..." 19/Mar

    Edelweiss
    "Now it is harder than 5+, maybe even more pieces has fallen" 14/Mar

    Un monton de chatarra
    "Backed off this as there seems to be a bolt missing, maybe due to rockfall? The ..." 01/Mar

    Frente popular de judea
    "New route to te right called "La mata no se toca" 6c ecxellent climb 3..." 06/Jan

    Agip
    "Defo 6b with some very slick footholds at the crux." 03/Dec

    El osito polar
    "As for Amigas de Lulu, worth the trip to Solarium. Comfortable on a 50m rope." 01/May

    Escorpion
    "A tough 6a for the first 6 or 7 metres and an enjoyable romp on good holds for t..." 05/Apr

    Clint Eastwood
    "Didn't find the belay between pitches 2&3 so it felt tough as a big pitch - ..." 31/Dec

    Vas pisando huevos
    "An odd climb which suddenly goes right to a lower off when a climbable groove be..." 25/Oct

    Gabi
    "The correct name of this route is 'Gaby'" 05/Jul top50

    Nitti
    "There is 6 pitch. I think they are 5+, 5+, 5, 6b, 5 and 6a." 26/May top50

    Yailhouse rock
    "I thought this was harder than Tinto with a thin reachy bulge and 6b seemed abou..." 03/May

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