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15 mins

Dry in the Rain

Poema de Roca is the tallest section of the Frontales wall and has a large oval cave at its base - the Poema Cave. The cave is one of El Chorro's most famous sections of crag. The climbs are mostly hard and steep, however their quality and popularity, combined with the fact that they rarely get wet, means that they are pretty slick when it is warm. For the majority of climbers the lower wall of the cave is the limit of ambition whilst the extensions that lead out to the cave lip rarely see attempts. Even less frequented are the exceptional long multi-pitch climbs that take on the huge headwall above the cave. The crag goes into the shade in the late afternoon and climbing is possible in the rain. Guidebook page 78.

Route (click for voting and user comments)		Symbols	Grade
1	Kervala 35m. The blank streaked wall left of cave.	2 Stars Pumpy	8b
2	Maquina cualquiera The easiest of the big lines. Start at the left edge of the cave. 1) 7a+, 2) 6c+, 3) 7a+, 4) 7b+, 5) 7a+, 6) 6b+. Abseil off. 1 user comment	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
3	El complot 27m. Super steep line around the left edge of the cave.	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
4	La villa strangiato 15m. Slots and pockets up the left wall of the cave. Popular. 3 user comments	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7b
5	Eye of the Storm Top 50 19m. Start up a wide crack at the back of the cave. 2 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c
6	Thunder struck 19m. Butch climbing to the Eye of the Storm lower-off in the middle of the roof.	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c+
7	Swimming Through a Shark Attack Top 50 19m. Steep blobs to the Eye of the Storm finish. Brilliant. 2 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a+
8	Shark extention 26m. Connect Shark attack to the first belay of Maquina.....	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	8b
9	Poema de Roca (P1) Top 50 23m. A fun, and pumpy romp up steep tufas and cracks. 4 user comments	3 Stars Strong Pumpy	7a
10	Viejos rockeros 24m. Direct above the first half of Poema de Roca pitch 1. 2 user comments	1 Stars Strong	8a+
11	Poema de Roca The route of the wall in six big pitches. The pitch grades are 1) 7a, 2) 8a+, 3) 7b, 4) 7c+, 5) 7a, 6) 6c. Abseil off. 2 user comments	3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy	8a+
12	Licantropia de plenilunio 12m. A variation second pitch to Poema de Roca full version.	Strong	7c
13	Rima libra 23m. A hard direct on Poema de Roca. 2 user comments	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	7c+
14	Viejo traidor Top 50 25m. A tremendous sustained route with a tricky climax. The extension is Sarracenos - grade unknown. 3 user comments	3 Stars Pumpy	7b+
15	Morritos jaeger 24m. A hard pitch. There is an often-climbed variation which wanders around up an easier S-shaped line at 7a+. 1 user comment	2 Stars Technical Pumpy	7b
16	Viejo amigo 23m. A flowstone start leads to a nasty crux. The left-hand extention is Via de Rudolf, 7c+ and the right-hand extension is Los... 3 user comments	1 Stars	7a
17	Newie 22m. Left of the flowstone edge of Garcia aguas. 3 user comments		6b+
18	García aguas 22m. Good climbing up the flowstone. The left-hand extension is Mamacita, 8a and the right-hand extension is El ave fenix, 8a. 3 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6b
19	Escorpion 23m. The prominent rib is actually the first pitch of an 11 pitch mixed (A1) route that reaches the top of the wall. 3 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	5+
20	The splits 20m. A blank wall to a choice of finishes. The right-hand line is 7b. 1 user comment	1 Stars Technical	7a+
21	Slimbo 20m. The thin crack in a steep wall.	1 Stars Technical	7b
22	Stonker 20m. The cracks on the right-hand side of the steep wall. 2 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	6b
23	La Princesa Carol 20m. The grey flowstone and tufa right of the steep wall. 2 user comments	1 Stars Pumpy	5+
24	Talibania 28m. The steep right-hand side of the cave. 7c to the first lower-off. 1 user comment	2 Stars Strong Pumpy	8a
25	Vivac porus Top 50 28m. A long pitch left of a corner that defines. 2 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	7a+
26	El señor de las tinieblas A popular first pitch. 1) 6b+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a. 3 user comments	2 Stars Pumpy	6b+
27	Fahrenheit 10m. The short arete right of the corner. 2 user comments		6c

Poema de Roca

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