The North Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
4 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The leaning mass of Kilnsey's North Buttress is one of the UKs most impressive crags. This continuously steep wall overhangs for over 20m and is breached by some of the most difficult pitches anywhere in the world. The lines take time to dry out but are rainproof once in condition. It can be cold and breezy at times and during the warmer months midges are problematic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Dominatrix
The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. A couple of pieces of gear are needed at...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
2
Northern Exposure
The initial 10m of the full line of North Star.
 
Technical
Strong
8b+
3
North Star
The completion of the full height line that was previously initiated by Northern Exposure.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
9a
4
Progress
A major route breaching the leaning wall and pulling through the wide overhang above. Loss of holds has made this route harder...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
5
Northern Lights
An incredible climb that takes on the centre of the North Buttress at its most fearsome. Super sustained and technical.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
9a
6
Full Tilt
To the lower-off at half-height on True North is a popular route on its own.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8b
7
Magnetic North
The stunning left-hand line that cuts left out of Full Tilt/True North at the third bolt.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
8
True North
A mega pitch. Take the line leading slightly rightwards to join Urgent Action above its final difficulties on the upper wall.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
9
Full Action
Climb up Full Tilt before trending right to meet and finish up Urgent Action.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
10
Urgent Action
A popular route of immaculate quality and one of the best at the grade in the UK. At the top of the pumpy leaning wall, move...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
11
The Vanilla Path
More tough stuff climbing up to, and crossing, the overlap of The Thumb at a prominent notch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a+
12
The Thumb
The long curving overlap defining the right-hand side of the North Buttress gives this hard classic. Climb to the overlap and...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
13
They Brush Me
Climb The Thumb to the overlap then continue directly through the bulges above to a lower-off on the wall.
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
14
Friends in High Places
An exposed trip across the top of the North Buttress but starting up The Diedre (page §§§). 1) 5a, 32m. Climb The Diedre...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

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