Cotos Medios

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Lots of sun!
25 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

A slabby wall of perfect limestone that is popular for routes in the mid grades. The climbs require a refined technique. Most of the lines are a little polished but do not seem to be any worse than when the last guide was published. Many of the better routes have been rebolted but a few are still reliant on older gear. Guidebook page 125.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Camella Cojo
25m. Climb a crack past one bolt to a lower-off at a tree.
 
Pumpy
5a
2
Fisuroterapia
28m. A good and popular crack pitch starting past some bolts. Gear is needed for the crack.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5a
3
Fisura de los Santos
28m. A worthwhile right-hand alternative to Fisuroterapia.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
5a
4
Fisura de Hombre
30m. A cracking pitch which sadly has old gear.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
5
Bitchitos on the Wailers
20m. The bulge is tough.
 
Strong
5a
6
El Monstruo de las Galletas
28m. The centre of the long sustained slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5c
7
Mordiscos de Amor
28m. Start from a higher vegetated ledge.
 
Technical
Pumpy
5a
8
Dodgy
22m. Not really worth the effort, a poor route.
 
Technical
6a+
9
Alucinosis
22m. A fine pitch that features a tricky start and finish. The first bolt is blue.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
5a
10
Cursillos
27m. Wonderfully sustained and engaging climbing.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5a
11
Mitad Hombre’ Mitad Galleta
24m. A bold trad route that branches out left from midway up Cursillios. Rarely climbed.
4 user comments
 
Fluttery
E4 5c
12
Number One Top 50
28m. The eye-catching left-to-right thin diagonal crackline is one of the best easier pitches hereabouts. Photo on page 120.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
4c
13
Bruja Intrepida
27m. Climb the blank-looking wall to join up with the final section of Number One.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5a
14
Numero Dos
28m. Spaced and very old bolts at the present time.
 
1 Stars
5a
15
Galleta
35m. Follow the grassy diagonal break leftwards to a bolt near to its end and then head up the wall to finish.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5a
16
Super Galleta Top 50
30m. A brilliant and extremely sustained wall climb up the thin seams. The first bolt is high up. Photo on page 123.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a
17
Gaby
30m. A hard left-hand finish to Los mandriles no comen Galletas.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
18
Los Mandriles No Comen Galletas
30m. The line of the crag featuring some superb and tough climbing but sadly, currently the gear is a bit old. The first bolt...
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Madriles
26m. Thinner and steeper than the other lines near by.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
20
Invernal
28m. A long pitch starting from the arete and moving right on to the face. There is a second pitch but the bolts are older.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
5c
21
Montgroni free
19m. At last the correct grade! The finishing moves have stopped many 5+ leaders.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
22
Cebolla pa la olla
13m. The left-hand line of thin cracks to a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
23
Genesis
13m. The line of thin cracks just right of Cebolla pa la olla.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
24
Arbola
20m. A highly technical thin crack that requires some care getting to the first bolt.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
25
Bruner and the bruna
25m. Gain a small round pocket at 7m and continue up the thin wall that gradually eases as height is gained. Old bolts.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
26
La ley de la selva
25m. Start as for Bruner and the Bruna but follow the line of green-painted bolts past a rockover move on the upper wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
27
Embolia cerebral
25m. An all out friction move gains better holds and the first bolt. Continue to double bolts and abseil. The gear on the old...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
5c
28
The Policeman Stole my Walkman
32m. The line continuing rightwards from the lower-off on Embolia Cerebral is worthwhile and best done in a single pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b
29
Güirilandia
25m. The very thin line just right of The Policeman stole my Walkman.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
30
Cafe bonk
25m. More extremely technical and thin wall work..
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
31
Penetración analgésica
25m. The rounded, right trending corner groove is a superb but tough exercise. The lower-off is a long way to the left.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
32
Si te caes pega una voz
9m. Short and desperate. Only one bolt long.
 
Technical
6c
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  • Latest Comments

    For LOS COTOS

    Alucinosis
    "The second bolt is now blue." 17/Oct

    Number One
    "New personal low point... Grabbing the top clip on a 4+. Ok, I missed a hold, bu..." 15/Sep top50

    Embolia cerebral
    "this is a semi trad route with only two bolts high up - bring friends and nuts!" 23/Oct

    Super Galleta
    "Hard for the grade, not sure what the above comment about small wires or sky hoo..." 15/Jan top50

    Invernal
    "The start is very comitting to on sight. I agree - an improvised clipstick make..." 16/Dec

    Mitad Hombre’ Mitad Galleta
    "Two of us led this while we were there and both thought it was nowhere near E4." 26/Nov

    Number One
    "Last 2 or 3 moves way harder (polish) than the rest." 28/Oct top50

    Mitad Hombre’ Mitad Galleta
    "Well guys, as the first ascentionist of this route, you are both actually wrong...." 19/Jul

    Mitad Hombre’ Mitad Galleta
    "I believe that this route in fact branches RIGHT out of cursillios following a l..." 02/Jun

    Number One
    "last few moves are almost as polished as me mums marble worktop. Apart from that..." 29/Apr top50

    Bruner and the bruna
    "A precarious start with the high bolt, although you can clip the first bolt of t..." 26/Mar

    Galleta
    "nice un-polished route" 21/Mar

    Invernal
    "Very hard start with akward moves. Use of clipstick recommended. Nice slab to th..." 02/Mar

    Number One
    "Apparently to slippy to climb with pleasure" 11/Jan top50

    Super Galleta
    "The hard section is high up and very polished, small wires or a sky hook ease th..." 26/Nov top50

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