El Polvorin Main

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

El Polvorin is one of El Chorro's best crags. The climbs stand shoulder to shoulder with the best of their style anywhere and a visit should not be missed. Since the last guidebook there has been a lot of rebolting work on the main section of the wall that has also involved the rationalizing and slight realignment of some of the lines. Along with the rebolting of the lines has been the addition of many more lower-offs that allow the routes on the main face to be climbed in massive single pitches.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
El gordo ya no come guarro
15m. Start by the little hut.
 5c
2
Pedro el grande
20m. The grey wall 30m to the right.
 6a
3
Alerta roja
35m. Start at the first line of bolts just right of the base of the corner/gully. A fine technically sustained line which is...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
4
Sueño de venus
35m. An outstanding expedition which gains a long line of good holds, after a tricky start as for Alerta Roja. An excellent...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
5
Pilier dorada
35m. The 'Golden pillar' is an extremely fine pitch with sustained and varied climbing plus a couple of hard moves thrown in....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
6
Generación spontanea
35m. A huge line with little respite. Climb the wall to a large cave. Exit this via a fingery move to some pumpy ground above.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
7
Revuelta en el frenopático
35m. The thin blank wall direct between the holes.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
8
Habitos de un perturbado irrerdiable
35m. A phenomenal climb offering continually interesting climbing from start to finish. A good rest can be had in the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
9
La pregiera tonta
35m. Yet another masterpiece with the difficulties confined to the lower two thirds of the pitch. Photo on page 130.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
10
Games moya
35m. An easier start to La pregiera tonta.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6a+
11
Obsesion permanente
38m. A superb route which can be split at a small stance.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
12
Araña mecánica
15m. A short route to the third stance of Paca eugene.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
13
Nirvana
1) 5, 15m. Up the crack to a ledge. 2) 6b+, 30m. Fine climbing on the upper wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6b+
14
Romo y extraploma
1) 5, 15m. As for Nirvana. 2) 6c, 30m. The wall to the right.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
15
Urbi et orbe
15m. Very artificial and escapable.
 7a
16
Los crocodrilos no lloran
15m. Slightly better than its sister.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
17
Paco Eugene
A long and classic expedition. Start at the base of the face. The lower two pitches need a small rack. If you wish to do the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6a