Adjacent Areas
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Great Tor Upper Tier has some good climbs, Undercut Crack is the best, although it isn't everyone's style. There are also some easier climbs and Gargoyle Flake is one of the best VS climbs on the cliff with good moves in a spectacular setting. The routes on Tinner Buttress are worth doing if you like climbing on slopers. Guidebook page 88.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Easy Chimney 8m. The deep and easy rift leads to a through cave. 1 user comment | M | |
2 |
Palpitation 8m. The undercut left arete. Awkwardly reach holds over the bulge (bridge from the left) to easier climbing on sloping holds. 3 user comments | Rounded | HS 4b |
3 |
Sweaty Palms 8m. The right-hand side of the arete on green slopers - yummy. | Reachy Rounded | HVS 5b |
4 |
Thin on Top 8m. The left-hand line passing a hole to a harrowing exit on shelving dirty holds. 1 user comment | Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
5 |
Green and Nasty 8m. The right-hand line starting up a flake also has a taxing exit that will keep you on your toes. 1 user comment | Rounded Fluttery | E2 5c |
6 |
Initiation 5m. The short groove and flake in the back of the bay. | Pumpy | S 4b |
7 |
Beer Matters 6m. Layback the arete to a large suspect flake. | Loose | VS 5a |
8 |
Fat Cat 6m. The short tilted wall. | Technical | HVS 5b |
9 |
Deep Chimney 8m. Another historical cleft for those who enjoy the dark and dingy. Approach over ledges and squirm to the cliff top. | M | |
10 |
Kelly 10m. The left arete of the next buttress via a shelf, an awkward wide crack, and a rightwards exit. Tough at the grade. 2 user comments | Graunchy | S 4b |
11 |
Deaf Raspberry Climb 10m. Swing over the nose and continue easily. 1 user comment | Technical Strong | E1 5c |
12 |
Astronaut's Wall 12m. The centre of the undercut buttress is strenuous through the roofs, then a delicate mantelshelf reaches easier ground. 7 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Pumpy | HVS 5a |
13 |
Possibility 12m. Tackle the south-facing side wall and make an exit round to the left. Neglected but worthwhile. 3 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
14 |
Primitive Chimney 10m. Climb the deep chimney that separates the two buttresses, in classic fashion, passing a jammed boulder. The start is... | D | |
15 |
Undercut Crack 8m. The short roof crack is a real gritstoner's glory where subtlety is definitely not required - brute force rules OK! 4 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy Graunchy | E2 5c |
16 |
MAy35 8m. The vague break in the roof to the right of the overhanging crack has been reclimbed via a powerful sequence. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong Rounded | E6 6b |
17 |
Avoiding the Traitors 8m. The inverted scoop and hanging flutings to the right of MAy35 are the substance of this brilliant little micro route. | 2 Stars Technical Strong | E7 6c |
18 |
Terrace Rib 10m. From below the tree climb the precarious rib to a scruffy landing. Continue up the rib above, on its left-hand side. 1 user comment | Rounded | VS 4c |
19 |
Terrace Trog 12m. A good route up the diagonal break, to a steep finale. | 1 Stars | M |
20 |
Old Wall 12m. Climb on to the tip of the perched flake at the base of the wall, then through a notch and up the face on poor holds. | Rounded | HVS 5b |
21 |
Gargoyle Flake 14m. The delicate slabby arete, or the face to its left, leads to a ledge. Access the flake and a dramatic finish on the... 11 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | VS 4c |
22 |
Sunset 12m. A line up the scoop, wide crack and wall above. 1 user comment | HVD | |
23 |
Beelzebugger 10m. Gain a projection then the break. Stand in this then another tricky move accesses the easier slab. Up the juggy wall to... | Technical | HVS 5b |
24 |
Bum Deal 10m. The bottom-shaped crack leads powerfully to a ledge then romping up the crack and wall above. 3 user comments | Strong | E1 5c |
25 |
Clean, Squeaky and Scented 6m. The rough, tough bulge is not well named! | Technical | E1 6b |
26 |
Left Wing 8m. The crack on the left is steep and awkward. | S | |
27 |
Tinner 10m. The left-hand side of the wall trending right. Low in the grade though many of the holds are rounded. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
28 |
Right-hand Twin 10m. The centre of the wall via a right-trending ramp is oddly reminiscent of its left-hand twin. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
29 |
Private Practice 10m. Use a pocket to reach the flake, then climb up and left to finish. A right-hand finish has been claimed but it is an... 1 user comment | Rounded | E1 5b |
30 |
Solstice Arete 10m. Climb the crack then the narrow arete and rounded bulges above. Escapable but with some good moves. 2 user comments | Rounded | VS 4c |