Great Tor Upper

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
25 mins
Uphill

Great Tor Upper Tier has some good climbs, Undercut Crack is the best, although it isn't everyone's style. There are also some easier climbs and Gargoyle Flake is one of the best VS climbs on the cliff with good moves in a spectacular setting. The routes on Tinner Buttress are worth doing if you like climbing on slopers.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
End Face
The north-facing wall on a poor selection of holds.
 
Rounded
VS 5b
2
WRoEF
Follow the crack up the face right of the arete.
 HS 4c
3
WLoEC
The wide zig-zag crack leads to a tricky leftward exit.
 
Graunchy
HVD 4a
4
Easy Chimney
The deep, easy and often midgy rift leads to a through cave.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
M
5
Palpitation
Gain the crack above the arete from a block round to the left.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HS 4c
6
Thumping
A direct start via the undercut left arete of the buttress.
 
Reachy
Technical
Strong
Rounded
HVS 5c
7
Thin on Top
The left-hand line past a hole to a tough exit on shelving holds.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
8
Green and Nasty
The right-hand line starts up a flake. It also has a taxing exit.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
9
In my Pocket
Climb the wall left of the arete - another bold and rounded one. The arete right again is a short 5a problem with a dodgy...
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
10
Initiation
The tiny green groove and flake in the back right side of the bay.
 
Pumpy
S 4a
11
Introduction
This is the short arete and shorter crack above.
 
Pumpy
S 4a
12
Beer Matters
Layback the arete to a finish up the large and rather suspect looking jutting flake.
 
Loose
VS 5a
13
Fat Cat
The short green tilted wall. The nearby boulder interferes a bit.
 
Technical
VS 5b
14
Deep Chimney
Another historical cleft for aficionados of the dark and dingy. Approach over ledges and squirm to the cliff top.
 M
15
Kelly
The left arete via a tough groove to the shelf, an awkward wide crack, and a rightward exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
16
Deaf Raspberry Climb
Swing over the nose and continue easily.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
E1 5c
17
Astronaut's Wall
The steep centre of the undercut buttress is strenuous through the roofs to a delicate mantelshelf reaching easier ground and...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5b
18
Possibility
Tackle the cracks in the south-facing side-wall and make an exit round to the left. Neglected but quite pleasant.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
19
Primitive Chimney
The deep chimney separating the buttresses. The start is tricky and at least one of the chocks is a wobbler.
 
Graunchy
VD
20
Undercut Crack
The short crack through the left-hand side of the great roof is a real gritstoner's glory where subtlety is not definitely not...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
E2 5c
21
MAy35
The vague break in the roof to the right of the overhanging crack via a short powerful sequence. Originally known as A35.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E6 6c
22
Avoiding the Traitors
The inverted scoop and hanging flutings in the roof to the right of MAy35 are the substance of this brilliant little micro...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E7 6c
23
Overhang Traverse
A right to left (or left to right) trip under the roof. Mild though with impressive views and not for timid seconds.
 
Fluttery
M
24
Bad Wind
The crack behind the block (crux) and wall left of the corner are the line. A direct finish is the best, though an easy escape...
 S 4a
25
Claim to Fame
Climb to the ledge then up the steeper face - tricky to start.
 HVS 5a
26
Terrace Rib
Climb the tricky rib to a scruffy landing left of the tree. Continue up the rib above, on its left-hand side. Artificial and a...
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4c
27
Terrace Wall
A block and short crack leads to the ledge. Trend right up the face to a flake and a steep finish.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
VS 4b
28
Terrace Trog
A decent easy route up the diagonal break, to a steep finale.
 
1 Stars
M
29
Old Wall
Climb on to the tip of the perched flake at the base of the wall, then through a notch and up the face on poor holds. Rather...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
30
Gargoyle Flake
The delicate slabby arete, or the face just left, leads to a ledge. Access the flake and a dramatic finish that will find you...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
31
Gargoyle Gully Left
Round to the right is a wide rift climbed via its left-hand corner.
 D
32
Gargoyle Gully Right
The more open right-hand side involves grassy scrambling and some loose rock. A more Direct Finish to is VDiff.
 D
33
Sunset
A line up the scoop, wide crack and wall above. The start is bold.
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
S 4a
34
Beelzebugger
Fills a gap. Gain a projection then the break. Stand in this then another tricky move gains the slab. Up the juggy wall to...
 
Technical
HVS 5b
35
Bum Deal
The bottom-shaped crack leads powerfully to a ledge then romping up the crack and wall above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5c
36
Clean, Squeaky and Scented
The rough, tough bulge is short and sharp.
 
Technical
E1 6a
37
Hard Rain
The left neglected left arete of the face.
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
38
Left Wing
The grassy crack is short, steep and awkward.
 
Reachy
S 4a
39
Almost Granite
The crack and bulge above give a bold and worrying pitch.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E1 5b
40
Tinner
The left side of the wall up a flake to a ledge. Then climb right with a tricky stretch for better holds and a bolder finale.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5b
41
Right-hand Twin
The centre of the wall via a crack and right-trending ramp is easier and better protected than its left-hand twin.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
42
Private Practice
Use a pocket to reach the flake, then climb up and left to finish. A right-hand finish has been claimed but it is an eliminate.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
43
Solstice Arete
Climb the crack then the narrow arete and rounded bulges. Escapable but with good moves and a bold central section.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Neb Buttress
    "On second found the route very entertaining but strenuous to finish." 18/Jun

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "I don't think the description's very good,'cause it's very clear where it goes w..." 16/Aug

    Parliament
    "Never HVS in a million years." 12/Jul

    Sinuous Crack
    "Though it was about half height and only offered a poor placement and not thread..." 30/Jun

    Bamford Rib
    "The 'blocky flake' is the 'ledge'." 28/Jun

    Bamford Wall
    "Judging from the chalk and scratches, most people start up Bamford Buttress on t..." 28/Jun

    Sinuous Crack
    "The chockstone seems to have gone missing. I'm sure it was there when I climbed ..." 31/May

    Master Blaster
    "found this quite scarey couldn't find any gear worth placing ." 26/May

    Right-hand Twin
    "good route. reasonably easy for hvs but requires a steady head as the gear is ab..." 23/May

    The Happy Wanderer
    "Top move to the break hard if you are short (5b) not if you are tall, like me! E..." 05/May

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