Great Tor Upper

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
25 mins

Great Tor Upper Tier has some good climbs, Undercut Crack is the best, although it isn't everyone's style. There are also some easier climbs and Gargoyle Flake is one of the best VS climbs on the cliff with good moves in a spectacular setting. The routes on Tinner Buttress are worth doing if you like climbing on slopers. Guidebook page 88.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Easy Chimney
8m. The deep and easy rift leads to a through cave.
1 user comment
 M
2
Palpitation
8m. The undercut left arete. Awkwardly reach holds over the bulge (bridge from the left) to easier climbing on sloping holds.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
HS 4b
3
Sweaty Palms
8m. The right-hand side of the arete on green slopers - yummy.
 
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
4
Thin on Top
8m. The left-hand line passing a hole to a harrowing exit on shelving dirty holds.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
5
Green and Nasty
8m. The right-hand line starting up a flake also has a taxing exit that will keep you on your toes.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5c
6
Initiation
5m. The short groove and flake in the back of the bay.
 
Pumpy
S 4b
7
Beer Matters
6m. Layback the arete to a large suspect flake.
 
Loose
VS 5a
8
Fat Cat
6m. The short tilted wall.
 
Technical
HVS 5b
9
Deep Chimney
8m. Another historical cleft for those who enjoy the dark and dingy. Approach over ledges and squirm to the cliff top.
 M
10
Kelly
10m. The left arete of the next buttress via a shelf, an awkward wide crack, and a rightwards exit. Tough at the grade.
2 user comments
 
Graunchy
S 4b
11
Deaf Raspberry Climb
10m. Swing over the nose and continue easily.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Strong
E1 5c
12
Astronaut's Wall
12m. The centre of the undercut buttress is strenuous through the roofs, then a delicate mantelshelf reaches easier ground.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
HVS 5a
13
Possibility
12m. Tackle the south-facing side wall and make an exit round to the left. Neglected but worthwhile.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
14
Primitive Chimney
10m. Climb the deep chimney that separates the two buttresses, in classic fashion, passing a jammed boulder. The start is...
 D
15
Undercut Crack
8m. The short roof crack is a real gritstoner's glory where subtlety is definitely not required - brute force rules OK!
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Graunchy
E2 5c
16
MAy35
8m. The vague break in the roof to the right of the overhanging crack has been reclimbed via a powerful sequence.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
Rounded
E6 6b
17
Avoiding the Traitors
8m. The inverted scoop and hanging flutings to the right of MAy35 are the substance of this brilliant little micro route.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E7 6c
18
Terrace Rib
10m. From below the tree climb the precarious rib to a scruffy landing. Continue up the rib above, on its left-hand side.
1 user comment
 
Rounded
VS 4c
19
Terrace Trog
12m. A good route up the diagonal break, to a steep finale.
 
1 Stars
M
20
Old Wall
12m. Climb on to the tip of the perched flake at the base of the wall, then through a notch and up the face on poor holds.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
21
Gargoyle Flake
14m. The delicate slabby arete, or the face to its left, leads to a ledge. Access the flake and a dramatic finish on the...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
VS 4c
22
Sunset
12m. A line up the scoop, wide crack and wall above.
1 user comment
 HVD
23
Beelzebugger
10m. Gain a projection then the break. Stand in this then another tricky move accesses the easier slab. Up the juggy wall to...
 
Technical
HVS 5b
24
Bum Deal
10m. The bottom-shaped crack leads powerfully to a ledge then romping up the crack and wall above.
3 user comments
 
Strong
E1 5c
25
Clean, Squeaky and Scented
6m. The rough, tough bulge is not well named!
 
Technical
E1 6b
26
Left Wing
8m. The crack on the left is steep and awkward.
 S
27
Tinner
10m. The left-hand side of the wall trending right. Low in the grade though many of the holds are rounded.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
28
Right-hand Twin
10m. The centre of the wall via a right-trending ramp is oddly reminiscent of its left-hand twin.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
29
Private Practice
10m. Use a pocket to reach the flake, then climb up and left to finish. A right-hand finish has been claimed but it is an...
1 user comment
 
Rounded
E1 5b
30
Solstice Arete
10m. Climb the crack then the narrow arete and rounded bulges above. Escapable but with some good moves.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
VS 4c
  • Latest Comments

    For BAMFORD

    Private Practice
    "This is perhaps closer to E1 5b than the HVS 5b it gets in the guidebooks" 05/Sep

    Bum Deal
    "stiff pull over the bulge , well protected with small cams , make good use of th..." 30/Jul

    Astronaut's Wall
    "I reckon HVS 5A is fair, but the moves are intimidating because you can't see wh..." 11/Apr

    Trango 2
    "Excellent micro route - crux at top and nasty landing" 22/Mar

    Adjacent Slab
    "Best reason for the evasion start is that the slab above while balancy is VD at ..." 31/Aug

    Bamford Rib
    "shorties beware the bomber gear is a long reach away away, i couldn't reach it ..." 28/Aug

    Parliament
    "This would be hard for E1." 09/Jul

    Reach
    "But where does it go? And why?" 25/Jun

    Oracle
    "Ropes a right mess on this one but never felt bold to me. Odd route but good fun..." 23/Jun

    Reach
    "Totally disagree with Jon. With some discipline, you can ignore Bamford Wall and..." 16/Jun

    Astronaut's Wall
    "Very good route, but not HVS 5a in my book. Committing moves over the first bulg..." 01/Jun

    Reach
    "I slagged this route off on UKC before I'd done it, because I could see from the..." 15/May

    Brown's Crack
    "Very tempting to absolutely lace the crack - excellent gear all the way and a ve..." 11/May

    Deb
    "Called Crunchy Nuts in the BMC guide. Nice little route but agree with prev comm..." 01/Nov

    Auricle
    "Easier than 5c if you can reach it, harder than 5c if you can't. Not really E2 i..." 19/Oct

    Auricle
    "this route is no longer soft for shorties (me), I could do laps on Billy Whizz b..." 16/Sep

    Portside
    "The start provides a challenge on a damp day: either a huge reach up (more lunge..." 04/Sep

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "First E1." 17/Aug

    Nemmes Pas Harry
    "I don't think the description's very good,'cause it's very clear where it goes w..." 16/Aug

    Parliament
    "Never HVS in a million years." 12/Jul

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