Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
2 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The final buttress at Kilnsey is often overlooked in favour of its better known near neighbours. However it has a collection of fine pitches that are often dry when much of the rest of the crag is wet. Guidebook page 270.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Rictus The original line in a very confusing section of rock. The steep crack (bolts on right) leads past some tat to a niche. Follow... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
2 |
Chris's Route A bizarre route with a wandering line. Climb to the bulge right of the line of Rictus. Pull right over the bulge then back left... | Technical | 7c |
3 |
The Last Gasp Finish Combine this finish with the start of Chris's Route and things begin to get a bit more logical. 4 user comments | 7b | |
4 |
Slab Culture Another eliminate connecting Chris's Route with Subculture. Worthwhile. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7b+ |
5 |
Subculture A quality route with a steep start and a long move to gain the groove just right of Chris's Route. Easier climbing leads... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Strong Pumpy | 8a |
6 |
Myra Hindley Start below the left-hand side of a prominent undercut. Hard moves lead to the break, then move right to a rest in the base of... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7c |
7 |
Little Ernie One of the original routes which takes a superb line up the open groove. Follow Myra Hindley to the rest then bridge up above... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E6 6b |
8 |
Private Practice The right arete of Little Ernie. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 8a+ |
9 |
Grooved Arete Top 50 The tiny steep groove is sustained and powerful. The grade is the cause of much debate. Some think 8b. 17 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
10 |
Dalliance More desperate climbing up the lesser line right of Grooved Arete. A lefthand finish is also possible The Quick Fixe at 8a+. | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
11 |
La Connection Links Daliance with the upper section of Grooved Arete. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 8b+ |
12 |
More Rhubarb Faster Good climbing through the lower bulges and up the corners above 6 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | 7c+ |
13 |
Brief Encounter A short power problem direct through the bulge above More Rhubarb Faster. Start as for More Rhubarb Faster. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 8b |
14 |
Smooth Torquer 10m. A short steep problem 50m right of Brief Encounter. 4 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 7a+ |
