Grooved Arete Area

Adjacent Areas
< North Buttress  |  None >

Sport
Morning sun
2 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The final buttress at Kilnsey is often overlooked in favour of its better known near neighbours. However it has a collection of fine pitches that are often dry when much of the rest of the crag is wet.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rictus
The original line in a very confusing section of rock. The steep crack (bolts on right) leads past some tat to a niche. Follow...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
2
Chris's Route
A bizarre route with a wandering line. Climb to the bulge right of the line of Rictus. Pull right over the bulge then back left...
 
Technical
7c
3
The Last Gasp Finish
Combine this finish with the start of Chris's Route and things begin to get a bit more logical.
4 user comments
 7b
4
Slab Culture
Another eliminate connecting Chris's Route with Subculture. Worthwhile.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
5
Subculture
A quality route with a steep start and a long move to gain the groove just right of Chris's Route. Easier climbing leads...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
8a
6
Myra Hindley
Start below the left-hand side of a prominent undercut. Hard moves lead to the break, then move right to a rest in the base of...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
7
Little Ernie
One of the original routes which takes a superb line up the open groove. Follow Myra Hindley to the rest then bridge up above...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E6 6b
8
Private Practice
The right arete of Little Ernie.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
8a+
9
Grooved Arete Top 50
The tiny steep groove is sustained and powerful. The grade is the cause of much debate. Some think 8b.
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
10
Dalliance
More desperate climbing up the lesser line right of Grooved Arete. A lefthand finish is also possible The Quick Fixe at 8a+.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
11
La Connection
Links Daliance with the upper section of Grooved Arete.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
12
More Rhubarb Faster
Good climbing through the lower bulges and up the corners above
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c+
13
Brief Encounter
A short power problem direct through the bulge above More Rhubarb Faster. Start as for More Rhubarb Faster.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8b
14
Smooth Torquer
10m. A short steep problem 50m right of Brief Encounter.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

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