Subculture Area

Adjacent Areas
< The North Buttress  |  None >

Trad and Sport
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

A popular area that is dominated by the fantastic left-leading line of The Overlap. The majority of the routes see regular ascents and are on excellent rock. Further right are some extremely steep bulges with a set of very hard routes. As with other areas, there is often something to be had here in the rain as long as the seepage has dried out. It can be cold and breezy at times and during the warmer months midges are problematic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
WYSIWYG
A short but worthwhile excursion up the wall between the two overlaps to a lower-off in a shallow, square-cut niche.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
2
Complete Control
Undercut left from the top of WYSIWYG to join and finish as for They Brush Me. This is pretty much a fully bolted version of an...
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
3
Over The Thumb
Extend Complete Control all the way left on undercuts to the good undercut on The Vanilla Path (page §§§). Finish up this.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
4
The Perfect Storm
A long pitch with a short bouldery crux near the top. Start as for WYSIWYG and break out right before heading back left to a...
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c+
5
Dead Calm
A spectacular and much-attempted route with a tough finish that branches out right from The Perfect Storm.
 
3 Stars
Strong
7c+
6
Nisus
Start up WYSIWYG and continue direct to a jug. Move up to the overhang and undercut left until moves up past a bolt gain The...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
7
Crank Stroke Groove
Start 2m left of the base of The Overlap. Climb the faint line of grooves to join The Overlap. Follow The Overlap through the...
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
8
The Overlap
The full-height, right-to-left-trending overlap gives a superb pitch. Follow the line all the way to a lower-off/abseil station...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
9
Rictus
The steep crack (bolts on right) leads past some tat to a niche. Follow the scoop above to the roof then swing right to a...
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
10
The Last Gasp Finish
A good and popular line, that has a lot of fine moves.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
11
Dr Crimp
Follow the initial section of The Last Gasp Finish and then make a difficult traverse out left and up past a bulge onto the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
8b+
12
Suigeneris
Now superseded for the most part by other lines. Follow The Last Gasp Finish and traverse leftwards to finish as for Dr Crimp....
 
Technical
7c
13
Slab Culture
A worthwhile eliminate connecting The Last Gasp Finish with Subculture. Variation 1, 7c - Continue up to belay of Myra Hindley....
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
14
Subculture
A quality route with a steep start and a long move to gain the groove just right of The Last Gasp Finish. Easier climbing leads...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
8a
15
Myra Hindley
Start below the left-hand side of a prominent undercut. Hard moves lead to the break, and then move right to a rest in the base...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c
16
Le Lapin et le Pigeon
A direct on the middle section of Myra Hindley.
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a
17
Little Ernie
One of the original routes that takes a superb line up the open groove. Follow Myra Hindley to the groove. Bridge up the groove...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7c
18
Little Ernie Direct Start
Climb direct to the base of the groove - no bolts.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E8 6c
19
Private Practice
The tilted right arete of Little Ernie is climbed via an excursion left into the large corner/groove of Little Ernie.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
8a+
20
Grooved Arete Top 50
The narrow, and very steep groove is sustained and powerful.
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
21
Dalliance
A desperately hard climb up the less well-defined line right of Grooved Arete. Stepping out right and back left to the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
22
La Connection
Links Daliance with the upper section of Grooved Arete.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
23
The Quick Fixe
The left-hand finish to Dalliance is easier than the parent route but still takes in its hardest moves.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
24
More Rhubarb Faster
Good climbing through the lower bulges and up the wall and arete. The line has shed a few holds in recent times, hence the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7c+
25
Brief Encounter
A short power problem through the bulge above More Rhubarb Faster, starting up the initial section of More Rhubarb Faster.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
8b
26
Smooth Torquer
An excellent short but very steep problem. Make hard moves to jugs on still steep ground.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
7a+
27
Fit of Peak
The short looking, leftward leaning line is tougher that appearances would suggest. Start to the right of the first bolt.
 
1 Stars
Strong
7c
28
Downright Theft
Climb with difficulty to a small niche and move rightwards to finish on a steep grass slope that leads to a tree belay.
 E3 6a
29
Prying Eyes
Climb the shallow groove and wall to a steep grassy slope and tree belay some way above.
 E1 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For KILNSEY

    Friends in High Places
    "Changed from 5c ** to E4 5c **, no votes" 19/Nov

    Quiet Flight
    "Anybody been on Air Rage recently - the direct finish to Quite Flight. Seemed na..." 25/Jun

    The Yorkshire Ripper
    "Fully rebolted now" 17/Aug

    Another Clip in the Wall
    "nice route up to the second bolt, then descends into contrived sharp moves and o..." 01/Aug

    Floccipaucinihilipilificatious
    "Re-bolted today. Few cool moves. One to do if you have done everything else. (Or..." 18/Jul

    Pantomime
    "Harder move than its neighbour but less sustained in its upper section. I'm havi..." 11/Jul

    The Diedre
    "Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher ..." 10/Jul top50

    Quiet Flight
    "underrated, and better than it looks on fine rock with interesting climbing for ..." 13/Jun

    The Diedre
    "Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre..." 22/May top50

    Smooth Torquer
    "Correction, a million miles from 8a, only 48 miles from 7b." 21/May

    The Directissima
    "If you werent impressed you obviously only went to the first lower off." 16/Sep top50

    Sticky Wicket
    "I did this after Frankie and found it OK, easier for the tall I think which mayb..." 12/Sep

    The Last Gasp Finish
    "The slight rest in the niche is hands off." 29/Aug

    Quiet Flight
    "Air rage 7c+ goes direct through the roof where QF goes left." 26/Aug

    Comedy
    "Ascended the day before yesterday by myself (age 35) after much hanging about. W..." 12/Aug top50

    Tragedy
    "Hard power endurance. To a poor rest then some sapping moves to a run out finish..." 12/Aug

    Little Ernie
    "Now fully bolted. Told that holds have come off above the break after the boulde..." 12/Aug

    Alternative
    "Very loose boulder between third and fourth bolt. Temping to use as hand hold, b..." 09/Aug

    No More Jumping to Conclusions
    "well worth doing, barely inferior too frankie. nice bit of rock on the main sec..." 30/Jul

    Slab Culture
    "As of July '09, and until I or someone else gets to it, be very very wary of the..." 27/Jul

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