Left Wing

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
10 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Restricted Access

Steep traditional wall climbing is the name of the game here often of a sustained, technical and fingery nature. Some of the lines are a bit vegetated and the crag can be a little dirty at the beginning of the season. Seepage is also a problem and the wall takes a while to dry.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Out of the Blue
Climb the wall via cracks and grooves - passing a peg in the break. Bolt belay. May need cleaning.
 E3 6a
2
The Blues
The roof and thin crack above then move left to a bolt belay.
 E2 6a
3
End Flake
Follow the overlap and corners above. Step right to good tree belay. There is a second pitch but it is rarely climbed.
 VS 4c
4
Exo-sod
Climb the wall to meet End Flake and then take the short corner above to a tree belay.
 E1 5b
5
Blue Thunder
Climb the very thin crackline to a thread on the right (on Blue Sister) and then climb direct before heading rightwards over...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
6
Blue Sister
Climb up the right-trending flakeline to a thread at the break. Move right to thin flakes which are followed to ledges. Move...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
7
End of the Line
Climb to a break and gear. Take the scoop above to a lower-off.
 
Technical
E3 6a
8
Blue Bottle
Vegetated. Climb past the small tree and continue to the break. Move right and then up before climbing back leftwards to the...
 
Pumpy
HVS 5b
9
Some Blue For You
A good pitch when clean. Follow Blue Bottle to the break then head directly up the wall on excellent holds to a lower-off.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5a
10
Goon Show
Hard moves up the wall right of the small tree via a thread gain the horizontal break. Move left and finish up Some Blue For...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
11
Hell's Teeth
Follow the sharply defined corner below a tree.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
12
Captain Beefcake
Start 2m right of Hell's Teeth. Climb direct to a peg and then to the horizontal break. Finish at the Hell's Teeth belay.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
13
The Blue Beat
Varied climbing. Gain the right-to-left trending flakeline above the first break and climb it and the mottled wall above via...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6b
14
The Kill
A tough and sustained mission up the steep flakeline. At the top of the flake make a long reach up and slightly left, then up...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6a
15
Screaming Blue Murder
From the initial break of The Kill, move right and up to a flake. Continue to the second break - peg - and finish up and...
 
Fluttery
E5 6b
16
The Blue Preter
Follow The Real Thing to its initial break. Climb the wall on the left past a thread and second break to moves left to a tree...
 E3 6a
17
The Real Thing
The heavily-vegetated corner to a good tree belay.
 VS 4c
18
Unreal
A good pitch. Easy climbing to the first break is followed by continuously technical moves up the shallow groove. Finish up the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E3 5c
19
Blue Grit
Balancy and technical climbing on superb rock (when clean). Difficult moves lead to the first break and a thread. Head up the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
20
The Shootist
One of the best routes on this section of the crag. Climb to the first break - thread and good gear. Hard moves leftwards over...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
21
The Spineless
Follow The Shootist to its first thread. Move right and climb the wall to a thread and peg. Finish direct to a substantial tree...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
22
The Spineless Right-hand
A good variation on The Spineless. From the peg move down right to a good small hold. Climb up via flakes to finish at a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
23
Blue Band
The girdle traverse of the Left Wing. Start as for Exo-sod. 1) 5b, 20m. Climb to the upper horizontal break and follow it...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6b
24
Arcwright
15m. Follow the right-trending crack just left of the pillar to its conclusion and a bolt belay.
 E3 6a
25
Archangel
15m. Start on the right of the pillar and climb straight up to a bolt. Difficult fingery climbing leads to the horizontal break...
 E5 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BLUE SCAR

    Blue Grit
    "thread got chopped last summer and still needs replacing I have heard." 12/May

    Central Wall
    "An absolutely great climb, wall climbing at its very best. Some of the pegs are ..." 12/Jul

    Pillar Talk
    "Very well bolted! Which is nice. A bit hollow in a couple of places but nothing ..." 10/Jul

    Scarface
    "The crux now has an extra bolt midway between the old second and third. We tried..." 15/Jul

    Scarface
    "Seems hard for the grade and possibly 6c+ if you compare it to, say, the 7as at ..." 18/Sep

    Blue Grit
    "There is gear between the break and peg which is okish but not bomb-proof. The d..." 11/Sep

    One Previous Owner
    "Very upper end 7b, and direct is hard 7b+. Climb to the break, use a small edge..." 23/Jul

    Rattletrap
    "A new variant now makes the route more independent branching off from Pillar Tal..." 24/Aug

    The Professor of Desire
    "The retro-bolting posse have been to work on this one in Summer 2005, replacing ..." 15/Aug

    Rattler
    "Hissing Sid, the old route through the arch at the point it fell down now re-bol..." 04/Aug

    Central Wall
    "a fantastic climb. definitely E5, certainly didn't feel 6c+ to me!!" 09/May

    The Kill
    "T. Birks send me your full name and I'll add you to the credits in the new guide..." 01/Apr

    The Kill
    "I was very fortunate to be ron,s second on the 1st ascents of the kill, unreal a..." 26/Mar

    Pillar Talk
    "Re bolted and re-cleaned 2004. This route has lost a lot of holds, particularly ..." 05/Sep

    Death Wish
    "Worth noting that the half size friend is very poor." 02/Aug

    Unreal
    "As good a limestone E3 as you will find anywhere." 12/Jul

    Priapism
    "Yeah, but E5 6b if you don't (and it's dirty)!" 30/Jun

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