Central

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No sun
10 mins
Uphill
Seepage

The huge intimidating Central Wall of Blue Scar is the showpiece of the crag and yields some of the areas most difficult and high quality routes. Guidebook page 274.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Blue Max
1) 4a, 10m. The flake-line to a belay on a ledge. Loose in places.2) 5b, 15m. Groove above to a tree and lower-off on the...
 
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5b
2
Bolt from the Blue
1) 4a, 10m. The flake line to a belay on a ledge. Loose in places.2) 6a, 15m. Traverse right to the left-facing groove and...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
3
More Bolts from the Blue
22m. Climb through the overhangs of the flake-line right of the first pitch of Bolt From The Blue past bolts to join Bolt From...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
Bottlnose
22m. Pull through the right-hand side of the overhang and move up to the 2nd bolt. Go left and then up to the base of the BFTB...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6b
5
Hammerhead
25m. A hard and serious undertaking up the left side of the wall. Follow the right side of the depression to below the large...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
6
Priapism
27m. A superb pitch taking the centre of the grey wall. Start at the base of a grassy ramp and climb leftwards up the wall,...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E5 6b
7
Central Wall
28m. A classic Yorkshire E5 with excellent but unnerving climbing. Ascend the grassy ramp and move up to good holds. Once stood...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6a
8
Barracuda
24m. A sharp pitch. Start left of the large tree up and right of the start of Central Wall. Move left to the initial break and...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
Death Wish
27m. A tremendous pitch which requires careful rope work. It is E7 if the good peg on Stairway to Heaven is not clipped. Follow...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Stairway to Heaven
25m. An awesome route with a hard first half and a bold second. Follow the first few moves of Barracuda to its initial break....
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
11
Blue Angel
25m. A super, serious and sustained route of great quality. Climb Stairway to Heaven, past its bolt, to the break. Move up into...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
12
The Great White
25m. Start right of the tree. Follow a line left to below the roof (peg) and pull over and up to the main-break (peg). Step...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
13
Blue Water, White Death
27m. Follow The Great White to the main-break and traverse right to gain the obvious flake (thread and peg). Move up the flake...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
14
Something Borrowed
30m. Follow Death Wish along the break and continue the traverse to the peg on Stairway to Heaven. Move down and contine...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6c
15
Something Blue
1) 4a, 10m. Pitch one of Blue Max.2) 5c, 25m. Move right to the groove of Bolt from the Blue and move down and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
16
The Underlap
36m. Climb to a tree in the break and move right to a thread. Hard moves up gain the underlap itself. Follow this, past...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
17
The Professor of Desire
23m. A dramatic pitch through the bulges on the right-hand side of the crag. Follow the line of old and new bolts to the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
18
Blue Afternoon
20m. Start at the tree on the right-hand side of the ledge. Climb the wall and bulge to a tree in the upper break. Move right...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
19
The Lord of the Dance
A mammoth undertaking girdling the Main Wall along the upper Intermittent break. Not marked on the topo.1) 6a, 25m. Climb...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BLUE SCAR

    Blue Grit
    "thread got chopped last summer and still needs replacing I have heard." 12/May

    Central Wall
    "An absolutely great climb, wall climbing at its very best. Some of the pegs are ..." 12/Jul

    Pillar Talk
    "Very well bolted! Which is nice. A bit hollow in a couple of places but nothing ..." 10/Jul

    Scarface
    "The crux now has an extra bolt midway between the old second and third. We tried..." 15/Jul

    Scarface
    "Seems hard for the grade and possibly 6c+ if you compare it to, say, the 7as at ..." 18/Sep

    Blue Grit
    "There is gear between the break and peg which is okish but not bomb-proof. The d..." 11/Sep

    One Previous Owner
    "Very upper end 7b, and direct is hard 7b+. Climb to the break, use a small edge..." 23/Jul

    Rattle Trap
    "A new variant now makes the route more independent branching off from Pillar Tal..." 24/Aug

    The Professor of Desire
    "The retro-bolting posse have been to work on this one in Summer 2005, replacing ..." 15/Aug

    Rattler
    "Hissing Sid, the old route through the arch at the point it fell down now re-bol..." 04/Aug

    Central Wall
    "a fantastic climb. definitely E5, certainly didn't feel 6c+ to me!!" 09/May

    The Kill
    "T. Birks send me your full name and I'll add you to the credits in the new guide..." 01/Apr

    The Kill
    "I was very fortunate to be ron,s second on the 1st ascents of the kill, unreal a..." 26/Mar

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