Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
0 mins
Roadside
Seepage
Sheltered
Restricted Access

The best bit of the crag, right behind the BMC Access sign (READ IT).

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Broomstick
10m. The jamming crack on the far left leads to a tricky finish.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
VS 5a
2
Cracklap
14m. The left-trending crack system leads to ledges and escape.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
3
Familiar's Fall
14m. A steep white groove leads to a bulge; power through this.
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
4
It Started with a Kiss
16m. Pull the bulge then climb to a ledge. Step right and finish up the left-hand crack.
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
5
The Spell
16m. Climb the cracked wall to a ledge out left. Step up and right to reach a break and finish direct.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5a
6
Spellbound
16m. An excellent direct version linking a thin crack and groove.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
7
Waxen Doll
18m. From the pointy block (the Magician's Hat) climb the pocketed wall past a couple of pegs to a break and easier finish.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
8
Witch Bane
20m. Good climbing though with a loose (and avoidable) flake. Bridge the groove to a ledge out right and a finish up a flake.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5a
9
Black Mass
20m. Climb the cracked nose (5a) to the ledge of the Gallery (possible stance, peg belays). Move left to a jutting ledge then...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
10
Brimstone
18m. A crack in a groove leads (5a) to the belay ledge. Move left and climb the wall passing a small overhang 'en route'.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
11
Peel Off
18m. Mantel onto a ledge on the wall, move up and hand-travrese smartly left to the belay ledge. Step right round the rib and...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c