Adjacent Areas
< None | None >
Trad
Evening sun
Roadside
0 minsSeepage
Restricted Access
The best bit of the crag, right behind the BMC Access sign (READ IT).
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Broomstick 10m. The jamming crack on the far left leads to a tricky finish. | 2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | VS 5a |
2 |
Cracklap 14m. The left-trending crack system leads to ledges and escape. | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
3 |
Familiar's Fall 14m. A steep white groove leads to a bulge; power through this. | 1 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
4 |
It Started with a Kiss 16m. Pull the bulge then climb to a ledge. Step right and finish up the left-hand crack. | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
5 |
The Spell 16m. Climb the cracked wall to a ledge out left. Step up and right to reach a break and finish direct. | 1 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5a |
6 |
Spellbound 16m. An excellent direct version linking a thin crack and groove. | 2 Stars Crimpy | HVS 5b |
7 |
Waxen Doll 18m. From the pointy block (the Magician's Hat) climb the pocketed wall past a couple of pegs to a break and easier finish. | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
8 |
Witch Bane 20m. Good climbing though with a loose (and avoidable) flake. Bridge the groove to a ledge out right and a finish up a flake. | 2 Stars Pumpy Loose | HVS 5a |
9 |
Black Mass 20m. Climb the cracked nose (5a) to the ledge of the Gallery (possible stance, peg belays). Move left to a jutting ledge then... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
10 |
Brimstone 18m. A crack in a groove leads (5a) to the belay ledge. Move left and climb the wall passing a small overhang 'en route'. | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
11 |
Peel Off 18m. Mantel onto a ledge on the wall, move up and hand-travrese smartly left to the belay ledge. Step right round the rib and... | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4c |