Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
Level
20 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Range East - usually closed mid-week
The East Face of the Castle has a great set of very steep routes. It is popular with Deep Water soloists and those going to do Wishful Thinking. A full survey of the routes is attainable from the old building opposite. Guidebook page 88.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Bastille 16m. The wall just right of the of the arete of Vista. From ledges at the base, climb the blocky face to the top. ThereÕs a few... | Loose | HVS 5a |
2 |
Kramer vs Kramer 16m. The twin cracks right again give good climbing. Start by way of bridging, then follow the left-hand crack to the top. | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5b |
3 |
Daze of the Weak 17m. A good, hard addition, tackling the alluring pillar. From non-tidal ledges at the base of the pillar, climb the pillar... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E6 6b |
4 |
Anniversary Waltz 17m. Excellent climbing, ascending the south-facing wall of the bay. Climb diagonally rightwards up cracks to start, pass an... | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E3 5c |
5 |
Barbecuing Traditions 16m. Another line that gets soloed more often than led; the crux is around 6m above a good high tide. Climb through the low... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | E5 6b |
6 |
Critical Masses 16m. Another good line, and one thatÕs also seen a number of solos. Break out rightwards from Barbecuing, to gain the steep... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | E4 6a |
7 |
Vengeance 17m. The face to the right is wonderful, and a great DWS; expect a crux at about 11m. From the slender pillar at the high water... | 2 Stars DWS Pumpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Dead Choughed 18m. A hard modern classic, tackling the unrelenting wall right of Vengeance, it has been on-sight soloed! Pull over the lower... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy | E6 6b |
9 |
Trapdoor 20m. A good line up the massive corner. YouÕll have a choice of stances, with lower or higher ledges available. Climb up to the... | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E2 5b |
10 |
Black Man Ray 19m. This line offers some amazing climbing in the upper section. From the base of the big chimney, climb its left edge for 7m,... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
11 |
Wishful Thinking 19m. A classic trip at a more amenable grade; the upper roofs provide delicious, juggy entertainment. Climb the right wall of... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E1 5b |
12 |
Tragedy and Mystery 19m. A demanding wall climb to the right of Wishful Thinking. Sustained and bold in places. Climb the lower wall moving left to... | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 6a |
