East Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
20 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The East Face of the Castle has a great set of very steep routes. It is popular with Deep Water soloists and those going to do Wishful Thinking. A full survey of the routes is attainable from the old building opposite.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bastille
16m. The wall just right of the of the arete of Vista. From ledges at the base, climb the blocky face to the top. ThereÕs a few...
 
Loose
HVS 5a
2
Kramer vs Kramer
16m. The twin cracks right again give good climbing. Start by way of bridging, then follow the left-hand crack to the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5b
3
Daze of the Weak
17m. A good, hard addition, tackling the alluring pillar. From non-tidal ledges at the base of the pillar, climb the pillar...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
4
Anniversary Waltz
17m. Excellent climbing, ascending the south-facing wall of the bay. Climb diagonally rightwards up cracks to start, pass an...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E3 5c
5
Barbecuing Traditions
16m. Another line that gets soloed more often than led; the crux is around 6m above a good high tide. Climb through the low...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E5 6b
6
Critical Masses
16m. Another good line, and one thatÕs also seen a number of solos. Break out rightwards from Barbecuing, to gain the steep...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E4 6a
7
Vengeance
17m. The face to the right is wonderful, and a great DWS; expect a crux at about 11m. From the slender pillar at the high water...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Pumpy
E4 6a
8
Dead Choughed
18m. A hard modern classic, tackling the unrelenting wall right of Vengeance, it has been on-sight soloed! Pull over the lower...
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
Pumpy
E6 6b
9
Trapdoor
20m. A good line up the massive corner. YouÕll have a choice of stances, with lower or higher ledges available. Climb up to the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E2 5b
10
Black Man Ray
19m. This line offers some amazing climbing in the upper section. From the base of the big chimney, climb its left edge for 7m,...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
11
Wishful Thinking
19m. A classic trip at a more amenable grade; the upper roofs provide delicious, juggy entertainment. Climb the right wall of...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E1 5b
12
Tragedy and Mystery
19m. A demanding wall climb to the right of Wishful Thinking. Sustained and bold in places. Climb the lower wall moving left to...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For THE CASTLE

    Wishful Thinking
    "^^She's right. Better climbing than Rock Idol! Over too soon, would be uber-clas..." 08/Sep

    Wishful Thinking
    "This route is AMAZING! A great contrast between lovely wall climbing in the lowe..." 01/Jul

    Chasing Shade
    "Razor sharp, not that much fun. Nothing as hard as the crux of Heat, but quite s..." 15/Aug

    Out for the Count
    "Under the influence is a better route i reckon, and a bit harder. This is good t..." 01/Jun top50

    Chasing Shade
    "The start looks somewhat unlikely at the grade: anyone done this?" 28/May

    Over the Hill
    "Why don't you give me any credit for Over the Hill. I've long since been niggled..." 07/Oct

    Vista
    "A steady f6a+ 2 star deep water solo if you climb primarily on the left side of ..." 14/Jul

    Under the Influence
    "A super dooper route. Very well protected and quite fingery with delicate but pu..." 29/Apr

    Under the Influence
    "steady away E4 6a. Not really that gnarly, honest moves and good gear. Superb ..." 28/Aug

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