South Face

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

This superb and atmospheric section of cliff has plenty to offer at a reasonable grade although the exposed location and committing blind approaches tend to make the routes feel quite serious.
Approach - A walk southwards from the Keelhaul Wall along the cliff edge will take you past the Preposterous Tales exit hole, and then along to the headland proper. Locate the line of Quoin, which is effectively the south-west arete of the buttress. From here abseil in from wires and blocks. Further right (looking in) the abseils need a little thought since you can't see where you are going until you have committed. There are various belays from wires and threads in the crag-top blocks.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sunny Corner
A brilliant find which takes you to places other HVS routes don't reach. The location is intimidating though and you need a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
HVS
2
Quoin
This exposed route is based on the south-west arete of the face. Expect a little crunchy rock and the odd loose flake in the...
 
1 Stars
HS
3
Poltergeist
Excellent. Ascend the lower wall, breaking away from Quoin to climb into a deep groove. Follow this on steepening rock and...
 
2 Stars
HVS
4
Telekinesis
Similar to Polergeist, but a little less obvious. Move right out of the sister route to follow a steep groove system. Continue...
 
1 Stars
HVS
5
Neurosis
Less-often climbed. You need a low-ish tide and hanging stance tactics to get started on this one. Climb up on steep rock to...
 
1 Stars
E2
6
Preposterous Tales Top 50
This route is a wild, crazy trip into the bowels of the earth. It starts as for Quoin, and traverses into the low sea cave to...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2
7
High Life
An excellent rising traverse which is a great way to experience this face, giving good exposure at a reasonably friendly...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1
8
Frigid Digits
Climb the wall just left of the belay, then climb a sustained section to reach a sloping ledge on the right (possible belay)....
 
1 Stars
E2
9
Dayglow Saracen
Break out right from the belay, to gain a groove. Follow this to a rest on a sloping ledge (possible belay), then step right to...
 
1 Stars
E2
10
Exogen
Step left off the ledge, and climb a steep crack to a short-lived groove; a hard move through a bulge gains a rest on a sloping...
 
1 Stars
E3
11
Wavelength
A terrific line. Pull into the chimney-crack, and follow it until it abruptly ends; move up, then follow the leftwards-groove...
 
2 Stars
E3
12
Dope without a Rope
This line makes the best use of the hanging, bottomless grooveline found high up on the crag. The route can be split into 2...
 
1 Stars
HVS
13
Chakademus and Pliers
A nicely out-there upper pitch. Start at the big ledges. Break left out of Warm Waves, to climb the excellent steep juggy wall...
 
1 Stars
E1
14
Warm Waves
This one's more amenable; good climbing, and good positions. Can be split into two pitches. From a belay close to sea-level...
 
1 Stars
VS
15
Trade Wind
This steep testpiece is mighty appealing. Recommended is starting from the big half-height ledges, as the original bottom pitch...
 
1 Stars
E4
16
Ocean Passage
A grand and engaging little adventure, with a comfortable half-height belay option. Climb out of the lower cleft, and continue...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
17
Lundy Road
Another good route; steep, but well-littered with jugs. Move right from the lower stance, and climb the steep wall above, to a...
 
1 Stars
E2
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  • Latest Comments

    For BOSHERSTON HEAD

    Keelhaul
    "Set off in a confident mood which completely vanished after slipping on wet hold..." 09/Dec

    High Life
    "E2 5c" 20/Dec

    Keelhaul
    "The best E2 I've done in Pembroke, should be top 50. A beautiful, absorbing rout..." 16/Sep

    Intensive Scare
    "This route gets E3 5c in the new Climbers Club guide..... and even though it wou..." 08/Jul

    Keelhaul
    "Amazing route although being little slick at the bottom led to an over-griping p..." 07/Jun

    Sunny Corner
    "Really awkward corner- good gear- but 'squirming' onto the hanging slab sums it ..." 01/Jun

    Keelhaul
    "Just brilliant; the great sequence of moves to gain the overhang quite a way abo..." 31/Mar

    Ghost Ship
    "I was so surprised after a damp and slippery start, the route was a pleasure, no..." 15/Dec

    Ghost Ship
    "Brilliant route & not really very sustained in my opinion" 01/Sep

    Ghost Ship
    "Fully deserving of top 50 status. Classic Pembroke - steep, long, outrageous exp..." 01/Sep

    Preposterous Tales
    "Elation, no. Nausea, yes." 01/Mar top50

    Keelhaul
    "Brilliant, should be in the Top 50" 31/Aug

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