Myola and Stuntsman's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 mins
Abseil
Tidal

Range East - usually closed mid-week


This region is another one of those lesser-known Pembroke crags, mainly due to the lack of an obvious viewing point. With a bit of effort, it should be possible to negotiate your way around without too many dramas. The plum here for lower grade climbers, is the magnificent Myola (HS) which is surely the Leapís answer to Mowing Wordís Diedre Sud (but without the queues and/or the bird restrictions). Youíll also find a sprinkling of sustained groove lines. Guidebook page 138.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Life Jacket
32m. Terrific, sustained climbing. Itís possible (and easier) to tackle the hardest section of this route DWS-style (S1), or...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
2
Blind Magic
32m. Start as for Myola. Climb that route to a chockstone at about 8m, then head up and left to small ledges. Continue up the...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
Bedrock
32m. Climb Myola for about 14m, then swing leftwards, tackling the brown groove above. From the top of that groove, step left...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
4
Myola
32m. A classic line, taking the absorbing diagonal line that rises from the very depths of the zawn. It can be clearly viewed...
 
3 Stars
HS 4b
5
Myopia
32m. Another rewarding line, although this oneís a little trickier to follow. Climb diagonally rightwards on flakes from the...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
6
Oversight
28m. The easiest line here which is useful as a quick exit but also good for those getting used to climbing on sea cliffs. From...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
Two Men and a Scrote
24m. The first groove on the buttress. Climb confidently up to gain the lower groove, then make hard moves to enter the steep...
 
Pumpy
HVS 5a
8
Big Sea Running
24m. Up a notch on the last one. Share the easy lower bit with Two Men (or from the right at the same grade) then break out...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
9
Traction Action
24m. A feisty and pumpy route, firing directly through the central, steepest part of the crag. Climb the amenable start, then...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E3 5c
10
Stuntsman
24m. This line (almost) skirts the overhangs on their right. Climb the short face at the bottom, to reach a good ledge; from...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
11
Out of my Mind
28m. Outrageous, exposed climbing. The original line dived in from the cave on the right; but the variation start from the left...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
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  • Latest Comments

    For STENNIS HEAD

    Cool for Cats
    "Surely a gift at E1 and much easier than Manzoku. Huge jugs/rests are never far ..." 07/Jun top50

    Merchant of Stennis
    "excellent, hard work though." 30/Apr

    Riders on the Storm
    "Definitely one of the best HVS climbs in Pembroke. Fantastic position, superb tr..." 17/Nov

    Pleasure Dome
    "I had the same problem with wet holds on the 'rest' as Jus did, so this is worth..." 31/Aug top50

    Mean Streak
    "Agreed, nice climbing, good rock, great position. Very steady for E5." 13/Aug

    Mean Streak
    "This description really needs to be changed. General consensus is that this is ..." 21/Jun

    Riders on the Storm
    "A stunning route with intimidating positions. Seemed a bit hard for 5a. Need to ..." 14/May

    Cool for Cats
    "Brilliant, great positions and mild at the grade. MUCH easier than Manzoku!" 26/Aug top50

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