Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
10 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Range East - usually closed mid-week
This region is another one of those lesser-known Pembroke crags, mainly due to the lack of an obvious viewing point. With a bit of effort, it should be possible to negotiate your way around without too many dramas. The plum here for lower grade climbers, is the magnificent Myola (HS) which is surely the Leap’s answer to Mowing Word’s Diedre Sud (but without the queues and/or the bird restrictions). You’ll also find a sprinkling of sustained groove lines. Guidebook page 138.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Life Jacket 32m. Terrific, sustained climbing. It’s possible (and easier) to tackle the hardest section of this route DWS-style (S1), or... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | E6 6b |
2 |
Blind Magic 32m. Start as for Myola. Climb that route to a chockstone at about 8m, then head up and left to small ledges. Continue up the... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
3 |
Bedrock 32m. Climb Myola for about 14m, then swing leftwards, tackling the brown groove above. From the top of that groove, step left... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5c |
4 |
Myola 32m. A classic line, taking the absorbing diagonal line that rises from the very depths of the zawn. It can be clearly viewed... | 3 Stars | HS 4b |
5 |
Myopia 32m. Another rewarding line, although this one’s a little trickier to follow. Climb diagonally rightwards on flakes from the... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Oversight 28m. The easiest line here which is useful as a quick exit but also good for those getting used to climbing on sea cliffs. From... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
7 |
Two Men and a Scrote 24m. The first groove on the buttress. Climb confidently up to gain the lower groove, then make hard moves to enter the steep... | Pumpy | HVS 5a |
8 |
Big Sea Running 24m. Up a notch on the last one. Share the easy lower bit with Two Men (or from the right at the same grade) then break out... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Traction Action 24m. A feisty and pumpy route, firing directly through the central, steepest part of the crag. Climb the amenable start, then... | 1 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
10 |
Stuntsman 24m. This line (almost) skirts the overhangs on their right. Climb the short face at the bottom, to reach a good ledge; from... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
11 |
Out of my Mind 28m. Outrageous, exposed climbing. The original line dived in from the cave on the right; but the variation start from the left... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
