Myola and Stuntsman's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

This region is another one of those lesser-known Pembroke crags, mainly due to the lack of an obvious viewing point. With a bit of effort, it should be possible to negotiate your way around without too many dramas. The plum here for lower grade climbers, is the magnificent Myola (HS) which is surely the Leap's answer to Mowing Word's Diedre Sud (but without the queues and/or the bird restrictions). You'll also find a sprinkling of sustained groove lines.
The routes just to the north (right looking out) of Myola are restricted due to nesting birds.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Life Jacket
Terrific, sustained climbing. It's possible (and easier) to tackle the hardest section of this route DWS-style (S1), or even...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
2
Blind Magic
Start as for Myola. Climb that route to a chockstone at about 8m, then head up and left to small ledges. Continue up the line...
 
1 Stars
E1
3
Bedrock
Climb Myola for about 14m, then swing leftwards, tackling the brown groove above. From the top of that groove, step left and...
 
1 Stars
E2
4
Myola
A classic line, taking the absorbing diagonal line that rises from the very depths of the zawn. It can be clearly viewed from...
 
3 Stars
HS
5
Myopia
Another rewarding line, although this one's a little trickier to follow. Climb diagonally rightwards on flakes from the lower...
 
1 Stars
VS
6
Oversight
The easiest line here which is useful as a quick exit but also good for those getting used to climbing on sea cliffs. From the...
 
1 Stars
S
7
Two Men and a Scrote
The first groove on the buttress. Climb confidently up to gain the lower groove, then make hard moves to enter the steep...
 HVS
8
Big Sea Running
Up a notch on the last one. Share the easy lower bit with Two Men (or from the right at the same grade) then break out...
 
1 Stars
E1
9
Traction Action
A feisty and pumpy route, firing directly through the central, steepest part of the crag. Climb the amenable start, then pull...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E3
10
Stuntsman
This line (almost) skirts the overhangs on their right. Climb the short face at the bottom, to reach a good ledge; from here,...
 
1 Stars
E2
11
Out of my Mind
Outrageous, exposed climbing. The original line dived in from the cave on the right; but the variation start from the left is...
 
3 Stars
E5
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For STENNIS HEAD

    Cool for Cats
    "Surely a gift at E1 and much easier than Manzoku. Huge jugs/rests are never far ..." 07/Jun top50

    Merchant of Stennis
    "excellent, hard work though." 30/Apr

    Riders on the Storm
    "Definitely one of the best HVS climbs in Pembroke. Fantastic position, superb tr..." 17/Nov

    Pleasure Dome
    "I had the same problem with wet holds on the 'rest' as Jus did, so this is worth..." 31/Aug top50

    Mean Streak
    "Agreed, nice climbing, good rock, great position. Very steady for E5." 13/Aug

    Mean Streak
    "This description really needs to be changed. General consensus is that this is ..." 21/Jun

    Riders on the Storm
    "A stunning route with intimidating positions. Seemed a bit hard for 5a. Need to ..." 14/May

    Cool for Cats
    "Brilliant, great positions and mild at the grade. MUCH easier than Manzoku!" 26/Aug top50

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