Adjacent Areas
< None | None >
Trad and Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill
10 minsSeepage
Restricted Access
Phone 01756 770 269 to ask permission.
The left-hand side of the crag is composed of smooth solid rock in its lower half but is a little loose above half-height. Further right is a fine wall of tufa-cover rock with some technical walls and small-but-testing overhangs. The rock is excellent although due to a lack of traffic, and major seepage in winter, the lines can be dirty. Guidebook page 280.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Beyond the Fringe 20m. The easiest of the true sport climbs at Yew Cogar. Follow the first bit of good rock, passing a grassy alcove, before... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | 6b+ |
2 |
Frenzy 20m. Move rightwards up the stepped-corner then power up the headwall passing the roof on its left. Avoid the original loose... | 1 Stars | E4 6a |
3 |
Just Another Ordinary Route 18m. Start just right of the stepped-corner of Frenzy. Climb powerfully up leftwards, crossing Frenzy, to the sanctuary of a... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E5 6b |
4 |
Yew Terrace 20m. A desperate start, which is both technical and powerful, leads to a semi-rest below the roof. Curse the start for using... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Strong | 7a |
5 |
Yew Torqueture 20m. Start 2m left of the left-facing stepped-corner system. Climb up to the shallow groove and a rest below the first roof.... | 2 Stars Strong Fluttery | E5 6b |
6 |
Against all Odds 18m. Follow the stepped-corner to the break. Move up and right to a bush then pull past a small roof and up to a lower-off. | Strong Fluttery | E6 6b |
7 |
Strictly B Team 18m. A very steep start leads to a hard sequence up the wall to the roof. Pull over this at its widest point to finish as for... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Strong | 7b+ |
8 |
Empty Rhetoric 1) 6a, 10m. Climb the faint rampline leftwards to a shallow groove which leads to a small roof. Traverse right to a nut belay... | Fluttery | E5 6a |
9 |
Justin Time 12m. Powerful climbing through a series of small overlaps leads to the traverse of Level Pegging. Single-bolt lower-off. | 1 Stars Strong | 7c |
10 |
Happy Birthday to Yew 20m. Continues above the bolt lower-off of Justin Time. | 2 Stars Strong Fluttery | E8 6c |
11 |
Level Pegging 1) 5c, 10m. If you are one of those perverted climbers that has a fetish for big wide cracks then this should really get three... | Pumpy | E4 5c |
12 |
Pegged Out 20m. A stunning route breaking out right from the large fissure of Level Pegging. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy Crimpy | 8a+ |
13 |
Love Sculpture 20m. Another stunning route through the steepest part of the crag. Use a pocket at 3m to gain the black groove then climb up... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
14 |
Ten Year Itch 20m. A decade on and another excellent line completes a trilogy of superb pitches from Mr. Vickers. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
15 |
The Power and the Glory 20m. Start at the ochre-stained tufa-streak. Climb the streak, surmount the roof with great difficulty, then move right and up... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy | 7c+ |
16 |
Vorsprung Durch Technik 20m. If you know what it means you will realise what a good name it is for this route. Start at the tufa drainpipe. Power up... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7c+ |
17 |
Staying Power 18m. Another appropriate name. Climb to a thread at 7m in the next black tufa-streak. Pass this to another thread way above and... | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6b |
18 |
Devil's Grip 16m. Start midway between two black streaks passing 5 bolts. The start is very tight ¤ ? but it is possible to down climb from... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | 7b+ |
19 |
Cruisin' for a Bruisin' Top 50 15m. The most popular route on the crag and one of the better '7b's in the Dales. Mega moves up the groove lead to steeper... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Strong Pumpy | 7b |
20 |
Bustin' the Block 15m. A great hard trad route. Climb the tufa to undercuts then up the fingery wall above. High in the grade. | 2 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6b |
21 |
Powerplay 15m. Another great gear route up the leftwards-slanting shallow groove. Undercut up the groove to a thread then make a long... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | E5 6b |
22 |
Power in the Balance 14m. Do the first moves of Powerplay then up the blank looking wall above to a tree. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
23 |
Cavalier Cruncher 12m. Start just left of the next groove. Climb past two pegs to a tree belay. The alternative finish goes up and slightly right... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
24 |
Powerless 12m. From the shallow groove move up and then right onto the blunt and blocky arete to a dead yew tree. | E2 5c | |
