Tactition

Adjacent Areas
< The Arrow  |  Deranged >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
8 mins

This steep section of cliff hangs over a raised ramp which trails off rightwards under the face. The walls above mostly have hard undercut starts but surprisingly there are a few mid-grade routes which weave their way up the grooves and juggy breaks reaching some delightfully exposed positions. Guidebook page 182.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Raw Recruits
30m. Strenuous climbing up the steep crack. Gain the crack from the right and climb it to a rest below a steeper section...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
2
Get Some In Top 50
30m. Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, itís at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
3
You Got Me Into This!
35m. The wall between Get Some In and the corner. One of the pegs has gone and the other is old - treat the grade with...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
4
Hangover '77
35m. The line is up the left-hand groove of the big open corner above the ramp. Gain the groove from below and follow it to the...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
5
War Crime
35m. The right-hand groove of the big open corner gives an excellent route with a exciting and exposed finish. Pull over an...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
E2 5b
6
Get Out of That!
35m. The wall just to the right of the corner is a lot steeper than it looks. Start as for War Crime but step off the first...
1 user comment
 
Pumpy
E4 5c
7
No Man's Land
35m. This route isnít technically very hard, or badly protected, it is just extremely steep. From the first ledge on War Crime,...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
E4 5c
8
War Games
35m. An underrated route which is probably as good as Tactician. Start as for the last three routes but move right and climb a...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
9
Tactitian Top 50
35m. This excellent and popular route follows the big corner above the centre of the ledge but it does have a bit of a stopper...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
10
Blucher
35m. The arete left of the big groove of Tactician usually has a tempting thread dangling from its upper section. Start as for...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
  • Access Issues for Pembroke


  • Latest Comments

    For ST. GOVAN'S

    Deranged
    "Good solid Pembroke E2 albeit in a pleasant way.........what I mean is that it's..." 20/Dec top50

    Photocall
    "Certainly tough for a Pembroke E2" 29/Aug

    Zero Hour
    "HVS is right but there is a hard boulder start for the grade. The rest is a path..." 07/Jun

    Photocall
    "Good holds except just where you need them: unobvious 5c crux and worth E3 overa..." 01/Jun

    Tangerine Dream
    "I'd say not very safe. A decent looking rock 2 pulled through its placement when..." 24/May top50

    Clean Hand Blues Band
    "Found the pull into the crack really hard (especially after the polished lower t..." 13/May

    Range Rider
    "i spurned the gonads and went slightly further left for the crux!" 16/Apr

    Hangover '77
    "From the bottom it looks harder than it actually is. I'm not saying it's not pum..." 06/Apr

    Search for comments