Adjacent Areas
< None | Diedre Sud >
Trad
Afternoon sun
Level
25 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
Restricted Access
No climbing 1 Mar to 1 Aug
This huge lump of a buttress is crossed by a series of juggy breaks and small roofs. All the routes up the main face and the right arete are excellent and popular, giving great climbing and positions. Guidebook page 196.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Onion Eaters 30m. A little gem with weird rock at the bottom and a fine finishing crack. From the ledge move leftwards to an open groove.... | 2 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
2 |
Crystal Grazer 30m. Climb direct up the wall above on some large crystal-covered pockets to the break. Move slightly right then climb a steep... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
3 |
Sea Goon 30m. Climb the right-hand side of the wall by a shallow groove, to a ledge on the right. Continue up the corner above. | 1 Stars | HVS 4c |
4 |
Seaside Salamander 35m. Sustained climbing and a wicked crux move high up, unfortunately it is a bit escapable. The old peg may not now be... | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
5 |
All at Sea 35m. A better route than its left-hand neighbour. Start below a slim right-facing corner which is just above the right-hand of... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
6 |
Crises 35m. Follow All at Sea to the break, then trend right across the wall to a square-cut hole below the roof. Pull over with great... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Pumpy | E3 6a |
7 |
Tie Me to the Tyburn Tree 35m. An eliminate but with good climbing but it is probably not climbed in its current state due to the peg being old - maybe... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
8 |
Widowmaker 35m. A fine companion route to Chimes of Freedom. Start below two prominent right-facing grooves below the main line of... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E3 5c |
9 |
Chimes of Freedom 35m. One of the classic routes of the area which follows the most substantial line on the face. Start beneath the larger of the... | 3 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
10 |
Stand by to Boogie 35m. An easy start leads to a good steep finish. Climb easily up the wall about 5m left of the arete, to the band of overhangs... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
11 |
Blowin' in the Wind Top 50 30m. A popular photogenic route up the left arete of the Diedre Sud corner. It can be split at a belay on the arete. Start from... | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
12 |
Snozwanger 30m. This excellent route fills the gap between the arete and the corner of Diedre Sud. Start from the base of the corner and... 6 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |