Adjacent Areas
< Blind Bay - DWS | Strait Gate >
Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
10 minsAbseil
Tidal
Windy
This hidden bay contains some of the best hard routes in the area but most people don't even know it is there. The corner of Beat Surrender is superb, the expedition of The One-eyed Man is magnificent, and the atmospheric Alien Cave gives awesome routes for those keen to go bat-style. Guidebook page 214.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Beat Surrender 24m. An absolute classic, taking on the towering corner above the ledge. High in the grade, but very well-protected. Climb the... | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | E5 6b |
2 |
Aristocrat 26m. The crinkly low face leads to a pleasant crack. (S3, 7a). | 1 Stars DWS Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6b |
3 |
Toffee Nose 26m. Gain the technical lower arete via the diagonal seam, and follow the arete past a small overlap to the top. (S3, 7a). | 1 Stars DWS Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6a |
4 |
The One-eyed Man 36m. A stupendous expedition weaving across the entire crag to finish up the hanging corner above the Alien Cave. Can be split... | 3 Stars DWS Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6a |
5 |
The Abyss A brilliant, visionary line, tackling the massively overhanging left wall of the cave. The first ascent was soloed (S3, 7b) and... | 3 Stars DWS Strong Pumpy Graunchy | E7 6b |
6 |
The Anti Matterhorn Steep, crazy climbing, tackling the cave at its very centre. Start on the right side of the pillar. (S3, 7b). 1) 13m, 6a.... | 3 Stars DWS Reachy Strong Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
7 |
Alien World/Blind Vision The original line is better when combined with the alternative top pitch of Blind Vision. Start on boulders below the... | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E3 5c |
8 |
Alien World Direct 20m. A fine finish from the cave belay at the end of pitch 3. Traverse up and right for 3m to a seat just inside the cave. Pull... | 3 Stars Strong | E4 6a |
