Brazen Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Strait Gate  |  Star Gate >

Trad
Lots of sun!
10 mins
Level
Abseil
Tidal

The centre of Mother Carey's is dominated by the tall tower of Brazen Buttress. Around the tower are a series of caves and pillars composed of some great fissured rock. This wall has some of the best easier routes around, plus a couple of 'big tick' E2s.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Threadneedle Street Top 50
A brilliant and highly entertaining route that gets you into some spectacular situations. It is probably best to do it in the...
 
3 Stars
S
2
Karma Waters
25m. A route which bisects the traverse of Threadneedle Street. Climb the steep wall on the left-hand side of the through cave...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
3
Eight Gauge
25m. Start on the right-hand side of the through cave. Climb the pillar on the front edge then step right onto a ramp. Pull...
 HVS 5a
4
Narrow Carriage
25m. Start as for Eight Gauge. Make one move up then branch leftwards up a faint groove. Climb the easy slab above to the top...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
5
Tempest
28m. A good route which uses the start of Eight Gauge to gain the fine crack to the left of Brazen Buttress. Climb the pillar...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
6
Whirlwind
30m. This hybrid starts and finishes on other routes but there is some good independent climbing, and it should be of interest...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
7
Brazen Buttress
35m. A superb and popular route. Start beneath a left-facing groove in the middle of the south face of the buttress. Climb over...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
8
Herod
35m. The arete of Brazen Buttress gives a magnificently-positioned pitch which has set many a camera clicking. Start beneath...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
9
Heroes
35m. An eliminate with some good climbing. Start as for Herod but move onto the wall on the left until forced back into Herod -...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5b
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  • Latest Comments

    For MOTHER CAREY'S

    Joyous Gard
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Narrow Carriage
    "Good route with a tricky move in the groove and fine moves higher up." 16/Apr

    Toffee Nose
    "This is a great route, deffinatly recomended" 19/Dec

    Rock Idol
    "A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected..." 05/Sep top50

    Zeppelin
    "amazing climb! If you train on indoor overhangs then you have absolutely no excu..." 20/Aug

    Heroes
    "Too eliminate and escapable to be worthwhile. Stepped onto pedestal for a rest t..." 08/Jul

    Zeppelin
    "same as above, i found the top corner the crux" 09/Jan

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