The White Tower

Adjacent Areas
< The Space Face  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
10 mins

Grand, shapely and classic - Pembroke wall climbing at its very best. Yet it's much less trafficked than its close neighbour - this is because, darn it, the best routes are also the hardest ones! The White Tower is home to the incredible wall climb of White Heat, and the infamous testpiece The Great White. The best 'easy' is undoubtedly the lengthy Sea Groove, which flanks the right edge of the Tower. Guidebook page 224.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sackless
16m. This short route follows the left-hand crack. Climb past the hole and continue up the crack, gradually moving leftwards to...
 E1 5b
2
Petit Blanc
18m. Some good, tricky climbing. It takes the discontinuous crack line just to the right of Sackless.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
3
Dog Nobbler
25m. The lower rising breakline across the face provides some great and pumpy entertainment - and there is one hard move, too....
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E4 6b
4
Killer White
22m. The first of the 'white' desperates; just superb. Sustained climbing all the way. Cross Dog Nobbler, and continue up the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E6 6b
5
White Heat
25m. The strongest line on the wall, and one of the best the Tower has to offer. The route takes the left-hand, full-height...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6b
6
The Great White
30m. Arguably THE hard wall climb of its era. It's a mighty route, with a weighty reputation - and one which sees very few...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
7
Sea Groove
38m. This fine little expedition follows the huge groove found in the eastern edge of the Tower. A great line, terrific...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
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  • Latest Comments

    For MOTHER CAREY'S

    Joyous Gard
    "Agree- felt more like E1 to me due to the length, steepness and exposure. Very s..." 28/May

    Narrow Carriage
    "Good route with a tricky move in the groove and fine moves higher up." 16/Apr

    Toffee Nose
    "This is a great route, deffinatly recomended" 19/Dec

    Rock Idol
    "A wonderful route of course, but surprised everyone votes E1. 5a, well protected..." 05/Sep top50

    Zeppelin
    "amazing climb! If you train on indoor overhangs then you have absolutely no excu..." 20/Aug

    Heroes
    "Too eliminate and escapable to be worthwhile. Stepped onto pedestal for a rest t..." 08/Jul

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