Demi Lune

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
65 mins

A popular sector with a wide variety of grades on offer, although the harder routes are of better quality than the easier ones here. Guidebook page 42.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
2
L'ami Caouette
A hard route epitomising the climbing in this area. Fingery, technical and very sustained.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
3
Changement de Look
The definitive line on this wall therefore a popular challenge.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
4
Joyeux Boucher
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
5
Marron Derrière
The extension is also 7b+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
6
Jaune Devant
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
7
Vieille Canaille
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
Mélody Nelson
Easier than Angel Dust, yet difficult to onsight.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
10
La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
11
Great Blanc
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
12
Koumac Patom
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
13
Esperanza
One particularly tough move. It used to have just four bolts, but is now more generously bolted.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
14
Les Dingues et les Paumés
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
El Daü
Will feel more like 7a+ for the more vertically challenged.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
16
Les Dessous Chics
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
17
Harley Davidson
An all-time classic.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
18
Marylou
The hard extension is Minette á la Plage, 7c.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Chant de Cristal
The first (recommended) extension, Beauf Story, 6c - a reach helps at the start. The second extension is 7b.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
20
Papyrus
Classic Céüse climbing, also giving a good understanding of Céüse grading!
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a+
21
Katina
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
22
Carte Noire
The groovy extension is Uniquemonde.com, 7c.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
23
Encore
Start up Carte Noire then move right to follow this extension.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
24
Sea Sex and Sun
Good climbing leads to a sharp finish
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
25
Les Sucettes à l'Anis
The three star extension is Radote Joli Pépère, 8b.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
26
Canabis ou Nutella
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
27
Face d'Iguane
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
28
Tête d'Ampoule
The vast extension is Le Bazard Fait Bien les Choses, 8b+.
 6b
29
Petit Monstre
The crack, but don't expect to climb the crack.
 
2 Stars
6a
30
Couilles de Loup
 
2 Stars
6a+
31
À Patrick
 
2 Stars
6a
32
Bonny and Clyde
A bouldery start leads to easier climbing
 
2 Stars
6c
33
Lapinerie Top 50
A big move to get to the chain!
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Dyno
Strong
7b
34
Dures Limites
A popular 8c, with a technical finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
35
Suers Froides
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
36
Carte Blanche
A popular outing for the grade, feet are optional at the start. Expect to queue at popular times.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
37
Sans Peur et Sanglier
Start up Carte Blanche before moving right. A two-move wonder.
 7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For CÉÜSE

    Clochette Étalée
    "a real sandbag - fine technical climbing to the short fissure threw the final bu..." 26/Nov

    Dietic Line
    "hard for shorties" 07/Jul

    Dietic Line
    "Amazing! ...and not so easy. Dietetic Line vs Dietic Line: what's the correct na..." 06/Jun

    Retour en Afrique
    "Great route. Route to the left is "Aller en Chine" - 7a+/7b(ish) and ..." 03/Aug

    Berlin
    "Agreed, a good grade difference to Galaxy." 25/Oct top50

    Zagreb
    "One of the best routes in France apparently. Absorbing climbing throughout, a..." 22/Sep top50

    Médecine Douce
    "One of the easiest routes in the sector so often used as a wam-up and pretty pol..." 22/Sep top50

    Bibendum
    "7c+ from the floor. This should really go in as it is the proper route." 22/Sep top50

    Corps Éntrager
    "probably harder than Vagabond." 22/Sep top50

    Médecine Douce
    "Ok warm up when you know the moves. Same goes for Ananda. It has also been said ..." 19/Sep top50

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