Demi Lune

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
65 mins
Uphill

A popular sector with a wide variety of grades on offer, although the harder routes are of better quality than the easier ones here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
2
L'ami Caouette
A hard route epitomising the climbing in this area. Fingery, technical and very sustained.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
3
Changement de Look
The definitive line on this wall therefore a popular challenge.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
4
Joyeux Boucher
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
5
Marron Derrière
The extension is also 7b+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
6
Jaune Devant
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
7
Vieille Canaille
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
8
Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
9
Mélody Nelson
Easier than Angel Dust, yet difficult to onsight.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
10
La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
11
Great Blanc
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
12
Koumac Patom
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
13
Esperanza
One particularly tough move. It used to have just four bolts, but is now more generously bolted.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
14
Les Dingues et les Paumés
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
15
El Daü
Will feel more like 7a+ for the more vertically challenged.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
16
Les Dessous Chics
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
17
Harley Davidson
An all-time classic.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
18
Marylou
The hard extension is Minette á la Plage, 7c.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
19
Chant de Cristal
The first (recommended) extension, Beauf Story, 6c - a reach helps at the start. The second extension is 7b.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
20
Papyrus
Classic Céüse climbing, also giving a good understanding of Céüse grading!
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a+
21
Katina
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
22
Carte Noire
The groovy extension is Uniquemonde.com, 7c.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
23
Encore
Start up Carte Noire then move right to follow this extension.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
24
Sea Sex and Sun
Good climbing leads to a sharp finish
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
25
Les Sucettes à l'Anis
The three star extension is Radote Joli Pépère, 8b.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
26
Canabis ou Nutella
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
27
Face d'Iguane
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
28
Tête d'Ampoule
The vast extension is Le Bazard Fait Bien les Choses, 8b+.
 6b
29
Petit Monstre
The crack, but don't expect to climb the crack.
 
2 Stars
6a
30
Couilles de Loup
 
2 Stars
6a+
31
À Patrick
 
2 Stars
6a
32
Bonny and Clyde
A bouldery start leads to easier climbing
 
2 Stars
6c
33
Lapinerie Top 50
A big move to get to the chain!
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Dyno
Strong
7b
34
Dures Limites
A popular 8c, with a technical finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
35
Suers Froides
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
36
Carte Blanche
A popular outing for the grade, feet are optional at the start. Expect to queue at popular times.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
37
Sans Peur et Sanglier
Start up Carte Blanche before moving right. A two-move wonder.
 7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For CÉÜSE

    Clochette Étalée
    "a real sandbag - fine technical climbing to the short fissure threw the final bu..." 26/Nov

    Dietic Line
    "hard for shorties" 07/Jul

    Dietic Line
    "Amazing! ...and not so easy. Dietetic Line vs Dietic Line: what's the correct na..." 06/Jun

    Retour en Afrique
    "Great route. Route to the left is "Aller en Chine" - 7a+/7b(ish) and ..." 03/Aug

    Berlin
    "Agreed, a good grade difference to Galaxy." 25/Oct top50

    Zagreb
    "One of the best routes in France apparently. Absorbing climbing throughout, a..." 22/Sep top50

    Médecine Douce
    "One of the easiest routes in the sector so often used as a wam-up and pretty pol..." 22/Sep top50

    Bibendum
    "7c+ from the floor. This should really go in as it is the proper route." 22/Sep top50

    Corps Éntrager
    "probably harder than Vagabond." 22/Sep top50

    Médecine Douce
    "Ok warm up when you know the moves. Same goes for Ananda. It has also been said ..." 19/Sep top50

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