Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Morning sun
Uphill
65 minsWindy
A popular sector with a wide variety of grades on offer, although the harder routes are of better quality than the easier ones here. Guidebook page 42.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8a+ |
2 |
L'ami Caouette A hard route epitomising the climbing in this area. Fingery, technical and very sustained. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy | 8a |
3 |
Changement de Look The definitive line on this wall therefore a popular challenge. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
4 |
Joyeux Boucher | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7c+ |
5 |
Marron Derrière The extension is also 7b+. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
6 |
Jaune Devant | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
7 |
Vieille Canaille | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
8 |
Angel Dust Sustained, technical climbing. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
9 |
Mélody Nelson Easier than Angel Dust, yet difficult to onsight. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
10 |
La Javanaise Great climbing with no tricks. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a |
11 |
Great Blanc | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b |
12 |
Koumac Patom | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7b+ |
13 |
Esperanza One particularly tough move. It used to have just four bolts, but is now more generously bolted. | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | 7a+ |
14 |
Les Dingues et les Paumés | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7b+ |
15 |
El Daü Will feel more like 7a+ for the more vertically challenged. | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | 6c+ |
16 |
Les Dessous Chics | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy | 7a+ |
17 |
Harley Davidson An all-time classic. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
18 |
Marylou The hard extension is Minette á la Plage, 7c. | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
19 |
Chant de Cristal The first (recommended) extension, Beauf Story, 6c - a reach helps at the start. The second extension is 7b. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | 6b+ |
20 |
Papyrus Classic Céüse climbing, also giving a good understanding of Céüse grading! | 3 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
21 |
Katina | 3 Stars Technical | 6a |
22 |
Carte Noire The groovy extension is Uniquemonde.com, 7c. | 3 Stars Technical | 6a |
23 |
Encore Start up Carte Noire then move right to follow this extension. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy | 8a+ |
24 |
Sea Sex and Sun Good climbing leads to a sharp finish | 1 Stars Crimpy | 6a |
25 |
Les Sucettes à l'Anis The three star extension is Radote Joli Pépère, 8b. | 2 Stars Technical | 6a |
26 |
Canabis ou Nutella | 3 Stars Technical | 6b |
27 |
Face d'Iguane | 2 Stars Technical | 6a+ |
28 |
Tête d'Ampoule The vast extension is Le Bazard Fait Bien les Choses, 8b+. | 6b | |
29 |
Petit Monstre The crack, but don't expect to climb the crack. | 2 Stars | 6a |
30 |
Couilles de Loup | 2 Stars | 6a+ |
31 |
À Patrick | 2 Stars | 6a |
32 |
Bonny and Clyde A bouldery start leads to easier climbing | 2 Stars | 6c |
33 |
Lapinerie Top 50 A big move to get to the chain! 1 user comment | 3 Stars Dyno Strong | 7b |
34 |
Dures Limites A popular 8c, with a technical finish. | 3 Stars Technical Strong | 8c |
35 |
Suers Froides | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a+ |
36 |
Carte Blanche A popular outing for the grade, feet are optional at the start. Expect to queue at popular times. | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | 8a |
37 |
Sans Peur et Sanglier Start up Carte Blanche before moving right. A two-move wonder. | 7c+ | |
