Demi Lune

Adjacent Areas
< Biographie  |  Un Pont sur l'Infini >

Sport
Morning sun
65 mins
Uphill

A popular sector with a wide variety of grades on offer, although the harder routes are of better quality than the easier ones here.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La Femme Blanche
A pumpy lower wall leads to a precarious slab at the top. Run-out but brilliant.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
2
La Femme Noire
High in the grade - run-out, but still good.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
3
Le Chirurgien du Crépuscule
High in the grade.
 
Technical
Pumpy
8b
4
Le Poinçonneur des Lilas
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
5
L'ami Caouette
A hard route epitomising the climbing in this area - fingery, technical and very sustained.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
6
Changement de Look
The definitive line on this wall therefore a popular challange.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
7
Joyeux Boucher
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c+
8
Marron Derrière
The extension is also 7b+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
9
Jaune Devant
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
10
Vieille Canaille
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
11
Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
12
Mélody Nelson
Easier than Angel Dust, yet difficult to onsight.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
13
La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
14
Great Blanc
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
15
Koumac Patom
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
16
Esperanza
One particularly tough move. It used to have just four bolts, but is now more generously bolted.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
17
Les Dingues et les Paumés
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
18
El Daü
Will feel more like 7a+ for the vertically challenged.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
6c+
19
Les Dessous Chics.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
20
Harley Davidson
An all-time classic.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
21
Marylou
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
22
Minette à la Plage
The hard extension to Marylou, 6b.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
23
Chant de Cristal

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
24
Beauf Story
The first extension to Chant de Cristal, 6b.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
25
Beauf Story Extension
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
26
Papyrus
Classic Céüse climbing, also giving a good pointer to Céüse grading!
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a+
27
Katina
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
28
Carte Noire
 
3 Stars
Technical
6a
29
Uniquemonde.com
The groovy extension to Carte Noire, 6a.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
30
Encore
Start up Carte Noire then move right to follow this extension.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a+
31
Sea Sex and Sun
Good climbing leads to a sharp finish
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a
32
Les Sucettes à l'Anis
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
33
Radote Joli Pépère
The three star extension to Les Sucettes à l'Anis, 6a.
 
3 Stars
Technical
8b
34
Canabis ou Nutella
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
35
Face d'Iguane
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
36
Tête d'Ampoule
 6b
37
Le Bazard Fait Bien les Choses
The vast extension to Tête d'Ampoule, 6b.
 
2 Stars
8b+
38
Petit Monstre
The crack, but don't expect to climb the crack.
 
2 Stars
6a
39
Couilles de Loup
 
2 Stars
6a+
40
À Patrick
 
2 Stars
DWS
6a
41
Bonny and Clyde
A bouldery start leads to easier climbing
 
2 Stars
6c
42
Lapinerie
A big move to get to the chain!
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
7b
43
Dures Limites
A popular 8c, with a technical finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8c
44
Suers Froides
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
45
Carte Blanche
A popular outing for the grade, feet are optional at the start. Expect to queue at popular times.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
46
Sans Peur et Sanglier
Start up Carte Blanche before moving right. A two-move wonder.
 7c+
47
Le Brasseur du Dimanche

1 user comment
 7c+
  • Access Issues for Haute Provence


  • Latest Comments

    For CÉÜSE

    Clochette &Eacute;tal&eacute;e
    "a real sandbag - fine technical climbing to the short fissure threw the final bu..." 26/Nov

    Dietic Line
    "hard for shorties" 07/Jul

    Dietic Line
    "Amazing! ...and not so easy. Dietetic Line vs Dietic Line: what's the correct na..." 06/Jun

    Retour en Afrique
    "Great route. Route to the left is "Aller en Chine" - 7a+/7b(ish) and ..." 03/Aug

    Berlin
    "Agreed, a good grade difference to Galaxy." 25/Oct top50

    Zagreb
    "One of the best routes in France apparently. Absorbing climbing throughout, a..." 22/Sep top50

    M&eacute;decine Douce
    "One of the easiest routes in the sector so often used as a wam-up and pretty pol..." 22/Sep top50

    Bibendum
    "7c+ from the floor. This should really go in as it is the proper route." 22/Sep top50

    Corps &Eacute;ntrager
    "probably harder than Vagabond." 22/Sep top50

    M&eacute;decine Douce
    "Ok warm up when you know the moves. Same goes for Ananda. It has also been said ..." 19/Sep top50

    Search for comments