La Dérive to Autoroute

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  La No to GVB >

Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Uphill

Three sectors on the far left end of the crag. La Dérive is a quiet sector with some great routes following strong lines up clean and unpolished rock. If you're over-used to steep pocket pulling, the grades of the slabby routes will probably feel quite harsh. There are a few routes in the 5 to 6b+ range further left of Brazil which are featured in the local guide. The area further right has two classic walls of perfect rock giving routes with tricky finishes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Brazil
Follow the flake left then the technical slab to the top. The big pocket on the slab is a highly effective water collector, so...
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
2
La Présanteur ou la Grâce
A short bouldery route aiming for the prominent scoops.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
3
Rambo
A striking line up the arête.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
4
La Conjuration des Imbéciles
Another fingery exercise.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
5
Xénofolie
Climb the left side of the corner before venturing out onto the wall. May feel a little run-out if the climbing's at your...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6b
6
La Gibottière
A classic line up the corner
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
5c
7
Ambre d'Anus
Climb the groove to an initial belay (5 to this point) then move right and follow the crack with interest.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
8
Canard WC
A very short route, can be extended at 6a+ by continuing as for Ambre d'Anus.
 5a
9
La Calfouette
A superb route following the prominent crack/flake.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
10
Bon Anniversaire Enté
A technical test-piece up the wall/steep slab just right of La Calfouette (start hidden on the topo).
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
11
La Dérive des Incontinents
 
2 Stars
6a+
12
Ring'art
Start in the corner, and finish up the slab.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
13
Germanophobie
Technical slab climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
14
Unknown 1
Pointless. The worst route at Buoux?
 5a
15
Unknown 2
Some tough slab moves.
 
2 Stars
7a+
16
Afrique physique
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
17
Podium
 
1 Stars
6c
18
Embouillasse
Start in the chimney formed by the large block (start hidden on the topo).
 
1 Stars
6a
19
Doutte à Goutte
A very thin piece of slab climbing.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
20
Là-Bas si j'y Suis
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
21
Complicité d'Évasion
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
22
Vol au Vent
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
23
Salsa du Démont
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
24
Drôle de Drame
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
25
Marteau sans Maître
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a
26
Alertez les Bébés
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
27
Songe Sucré
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
28
Polka des Ringards

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
29
Be Bop Tango
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
30
Top Club
A few hard pulls on pockets. It is possible to avoid the hardest moves my stepping one move to the left onto holds shared with...
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
31
Dernier Problème des Alpes
A cunning line. When it starts to feel improbable, jugs are just out of sight.
 
3 Stars
6b+
32
Partie Carée
A good line on superb rock, with a bouldery finish.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
33
Docteur Jacques Hob
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
34
Viol de Corbeau
Enjoy the good rests on the way up the wall, an exacting slab finish awaits: jumping for the belay is not uncommon.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b+
35
Autoroute du Soleil
A Buoux classic following the dark rock all the way.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Crimpy
7c
36
Valse aux Adieux
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
37
Belle de Cadix
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
38
La Mimi aux Champs
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
39
Les Gens d'Ici
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
40
Le Coeur en Bandoulière
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
6c
41
L'Armour à la Plage
 6a+
42
Noël au Balcon
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7a
43
Nomades
 
1 Stars
5c