La No to GVB

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill

La No and Béda form a pair of short walls at the left end of the main crag. The lower wall is an infamous Buoux slab with all that entails, but the crack taken by La No is worth hunting out, if you fancy something a bit different. The upper wall pitches (which are on Sector Béda) can be approached by walking around to the left. Sector Béda itself is a beautiful piece of orange and grey rock with some very strong crack and corner lines.
Sector DSF starts where the wall is more continuous and has a collection of brilliant routes up perfect rock that often involve technical and sustained climbing. There are also some excellent multi-pitch routes which weave all the way up this superb wall.
Further right again is Secteur GVB (Grande Veine Bleue) with routes on three levels. The headwall pitches can be linked into from the pitches below to produce some superb long climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
La Risqueuse
1) 5+, 2) 5+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
2
Canaris des Îles
 
2 Stars
5c
3
Chaton
 
2 Stars
5c
4
L'Émoro (P1)
 
2 Stars
6a
5
L'Oiseau Bleu
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
6
Sex Pistol
1) 6b+, 2) 6a
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
7
Méniskoté
1) 6b, 2) 6a+
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
8
Les Tontons Macoutes
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
9
OK Carol
The less-popular upper pitch is 6b.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
5c
10
Canabis
 
1 Stars
6a
11
Cyanolite
 
1 Stars
6c
12
La No
1) 6a. A Buoux off-width to start. 2) 5+
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
13
Opium
 
2 Stars
6b+
14
L'Intruse
 7b
15
Nuages Blancs
 
1 Stars
6b
16
3 Petits Pas de Bloc
 
1 Stars
6b
17
Vol Qualifié
 
2 Stars
5c
18
L'Abrevoir aux Oiseaux (P1)
1) 6a. Lower-off or scramble a long way through the woods to the upper wall. 2) 6a
 
3 Stars
6a
19
La Béda
1) 6a. Lower-off or continue to the upper wall.2) 6a, 3) 6a+. Only this pitch requires trad gear.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6a+
20
La Kajozoazo
1) 6a. Lower-off or continue to the upper wall. 2) 6a.There are more bolts above.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
21
C'est à Cause des Garçons
 
2 Stars
6c+
22
L'Archi Hyper Ultra Extra
1) 7a. Lower-off or continue to the upper wall. 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
23
L'Archi Variation
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
24
Comme des Bêtes
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
25
Franco-Belge
1) 6a, 2) 6a. Lower-off or continue to the upper wall.3) 5+, 4) 5
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
6a
26
Honneur aux Zappeurs
 
3 Stars
6a
27
L'Émoro (P2)
The first pitch is on Sector La No (previous page).
 
3 Stars
6a
28
Pleure Donc Pas Petit
 
2 Stars
6a+
29
Carnaval des Orchidées
 
2 Stars
6a
30
Le Goïtre
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 5+, 4) 5
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
5c
31
Le Goïtre Direct
 
2 Stars
6b
32
La Berlut des Berlots
1) 7b+, 2) 6b+
 
1 Stars
7b+
33
DSF
1) 6b+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a, 4) 6b+
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
34
Chrysalide

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
8a
35
La Marabounta
1) 6a, 2) 5, 3) 5+. Optional finish on the left on this pitch. 4) 5+
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
36
Tout Va Bien
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
37
Pas de Pet
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
38
Vague de Chaleur sur L'Antarctique
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
39
Touloum
1) 6b+, 2) 6a, 3) 5, 4) 6a+
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
40
Rien ne va plus
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
41
Escouba
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
42
C'est l'Histoire d'un Mec
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
43
Souche à Mex
1) 6c, 2) 6b. A very long second pitch.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
44
Prise d'Otages
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
45
Pepsicomane
1) 6b, 2) 5+, 3) 6a
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
46
Congé Chimique
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
47
Golot Fou
Climb the wall to the right of the arete for much of the route, before returning to the left wall to finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
48
Coeur de Pierre
 
1 Stars
5c
49
Dièdre Rouge
 
1 Stars
6a
50
Duel au Soleil
 
1 Stars
6a+
51
Stratagème
 
1 Stars
6a
52
La Balade des Amoureux
 
1 Stars
5c
53
Coeur en Ballade
 
1 Stars
6a
54
Le Retour de 007
 5a
55
Zapping
 
1 Stars
5c
56
Pubis
1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 6a+ (left finish) or 6a (right finish).
 
3 Stars
6a+
57
Pubis - Variante Érotique
A more direct line.
 
2 Stars
6a+
58
Bagdad Café
1) 6b, 2) 6b+, 3) 6c
 
2 Stars
6c
59
L'Uterus
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
60
Wall Street
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
61
Line & Bar
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
62
Objectif Lune
1) 6a. An easier first pitch can be done on its own. 2) 6b+
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b+
63
Miss Terre
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7a
64
Vaisseau de Pierre
1) 6b+, 2) 6b+
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b+
65
Dévers Gondé
 
2 Stars
Strong
6a+
66
Grande Veine Bleue
1) 6a, 2) 6a+
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a+
67
Bloc Note
 
2 Stars
5c
68
Poème Givré
1) 5+. The easier first pitch can be done on its own. 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
Strong
6b
69
La Baleine et les Glaçons
 5a
70
Le Miel dans les Oreilles
 4c
71
Premières Fessées
 4c
72
Le Choix de Sophie
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
73
La Géomètre
 
2 Stars
6a
74
Luhora
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
75
Maître au Jeu
 
2 Stars
6b
76
Lotus Bleu
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+