PGF to Les Diamants

Adjacent Areas
< La No to GVB  |  Fakir to La Plage >

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill

The central section of the crag has a series of sectors split by a tree-filled ledge at half-height. On the left is Sector PGF (Pilier de la Gueule Fermée) which has some good short slabs and an upper wall containing long, soaring lines up fine, grey rock.
Right of this the lower wall is known as Mur Zappa - home of many of Buoux's most feared slabs, stay away from it when it is warm unless you want to suffer. The 6b's aren't much harder than the 6a's, though that says more about the 6a's than it does about the 6b's.
On the right-hand side where the wall is more continuous is and has a concentration of brilliant routes. The lower Partie Gratuite wall combines steep and powerful starts with technically absorbing 'grey' finishes. Les Diamants has some incredible soaring pitches that would be completely polished were they closer to the beaten track, so they are well worth the effort! Approach either by walking along the ledge from the left, or doing one of the routes below and continuing upwards.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tout à Fait Theirry
 4c
2
Eh Oui Jean-Michel!
 4c
3
Que d'Émotions!
 4c
4
Petit Prince
 
Technical
5a
5
La Confiture pour Cochon
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
6
Lapin des Sables
 
2 Stars
Technical
5c
7
Quatre Quarts
 
1 Stars
Technical
5a
8
Bascule Infernale
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
9
Infernale Bascule
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
10
Le Routard Galactique
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
11
Pilier de la Gueule Fermée
1) 7a, 2) 5+
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
12
Boulevard du rock
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
13
Join à Venture
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
14
Age of Dream
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
15
L'Éspoir Vit en Exil
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
16
Saccageur de Rêve
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
17
Zygène Pourpre
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
18
Patte de Coin
 5c
19
Édition Spéciale
 
DWS
6a
20
Prise Matique
 
1 Stars
6a
21
Minouchette Chérie
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
22
Poupon la Peste

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
23
Pilier de la Gueule Fermée (P1)

2 user comments
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
6b
24
Kadjet Tropic

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a+
25
Ainsi Parlait Zarathoustra
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
26
Zarathoustra Direct
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
27
Couleur 3
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
28
Zappa Maniac (Left)
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
29
Zappa Maniac
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
30
L'Ombre d'un Doute
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
31
Bal des Lazes

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
32
Schabada Swing
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
33
La Quête de l'Oiseau du Temps
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
34
Paulo, si t'Assures C'est pas Dur!
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
35
Dardibule
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
36
Bas les Masques
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
37
La Bonté du Forgeron
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
38
Skud
 
1 Stars
Technical
6a+
39
La Marine (P1)
 
3 Stars
DWS
Technical
6a
40
Aptitudes
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
41
Tentation d'Éxister
 
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
42
Procession des Sous-Hommes
 
Technical
Crimpy
7b
43
Nutso-mato
 6b
44
Enty-prises
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
45
Belsunce
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
46
Belsunce Direct
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
47
Cap'tain Crochet
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
48
Super Brown
Not too many bolts on this Yosemite style off-width.
 6b
49
Antinéa
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
50
Javanaise
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
51
Northern Light
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
52
Salinas (P1)
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
53
Amour Bleu
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
54
Transat
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
55
The Cruiser
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
56
Partie Gratuite
 
3 Stars
6a+
57
Borinqueno
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
58
Samba
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
59
Music of Moves
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
60
En Montant Chez Kate
 
Technical
7a+
61
La Volière
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 7b. Two easier pitches to a hard finish.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
62
Pigalle la Blanche
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
63
Fire Works
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
64
Joe Weider's Rock Principle

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
7c+
65
La Balance
Start on the left wall back in the cave, and follow the bolts left to a junction with Joe Weider, then take the left-hand...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c
66
Vieux Debris
Same start as La Balance, but continue straight up to finish as for Joe Weider.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6c+
67
Terre Sauvage
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
68
Jungle
 
1 Stars
6b
69
Africa
1) 6b+, 2) 7a+
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
70
La Marine (P2)
2) 7a+, 3) 6b
 
2 Stars
DWS
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
71
Akoulina
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
72
Sensuelle et Sans Suite
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
73
La Nostalgie Camarade
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
74
Koweit and See
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c
75
Pêcheur d'Étoiles
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
76
La Petite Graine
 
1 Stars
6b+
77
Salinas (P2)
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
78
Fréquence Môme
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
79
Les Diamants sont Éternels
One of the finest 7a's in the world, it has a little bit of everything.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
80
Lieux Secrets et Vilains Messieurs
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
81
La Bourse ou la Vie
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
82
Tempête du Désert
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
83
C'est une Andalouse
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b