Fakir to La Plage

Adjacent Areas
< PGF to Les Diamants  |  Pilier des Fourmis >

Sport
Lots of sun!
15 mins
Uphill

The tallest section of Buoux has some great popular sectors on a variety of excellent rock formations. On the left sector Fakir presents a fine wall of orange rock with constantly interesting climbing on large pocketed features. Although the first pitches get most of the traffic, it's worth carrying on up.
Sector Excalibur offers some great link-ups that lead to the top of the crag, well almost. The first pitches around here are popular, taking steep lines with hardly a pocket in sight.
Above this is the magnificent La Plage - a sort of 'Bout du Monde lite' and a popular hangout with a concentration of good bouldery routes mainly in the upper 7s. Approach via the old stairs from below, approaching from the right is not recommended. The lower walls here are called Sector Scorpion which is a popular area with some great easier ticks.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Le Père Noël est une Ordure
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
2
Rivage
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
3
Encore et Toujours
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
4
Bleu Tomate
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
5
La Fakir
1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 6c
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
6
La Fakir (P4)
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
7
Invasion Nordique
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Big Bang
Follow on from Invasion Nordique.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
9
Big Crunch
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
10
Que Fait la Résistance?
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
11
Ici Londres
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
12
Signé Farax
Given 6b in the local guide, but the start is desperate.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c
13
Cri de Guerre
Superb. There are a couple of options for continuing further.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b+
14
Slogan de Combat
Follow on from Cri de Guerre.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6c+
15
Tout, Tout de Suite
Follow on from either Slogan de Combat or Fakir.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
16
Prix de Détail
Another follow on from Cri de Guerre.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
17
Désespoir
A great pitch that weaves around a lot more than the line indicates. Start at the finger crack.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c+
18
De Camino a la Vereda
1) 6c+. Climb Désespoir but continue to a higher lower-off.2) 7b, 3) Unclimbed.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
19
Dérision
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
20
La Solution Finale
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
21
Djihad
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
22
Le Tozal
1) 6a, 2) 6b, 3) 6b
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
23
Le Tozal (P4)
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b
24
Le Vieil Homme est Amer
1) 7a. Continue past the first lower-off. 2) 6c
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
25
Le Pilier Déglingue
1) 5+, 2) 7a, 3) 7a
 
3 Stars
7a
26
J'aime, J'aime, J'aime
Can be started from the ground.
 
3 Stars
6c
27
Leave it to the Lawyer
 
3 Stars
6c+
28
Fingers of Fate
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
29
Into the Waves
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
30
Feeling Fine
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
31
Mr Bricolage
1) 6c+, 2) 7a+. The symbols are for the second pitch.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
7a+
32
La Siesta
 
3 Stars
6c+
33
Homo-sapiens Néandertalis
 
3 Stars
6c+
34
La Concièrge est dans l'Escalier

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
35
Excalibur
1) 7b+, 2) 6a. A short pitch. 3) 6c
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
36
Séquence Frisson
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
37
20 year old project
 ??
38
Fesse et Geste
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7c+
39
Les Flammes du Désir
A superb orange groove leads to a technical finale.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
40
Les Clandestins
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c
41
La Diagonale du Fou
The connection from Les Clandestins is 6a+.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
42
Synergie
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b+
43
Les Joies Simples
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
44
Projection Privée
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
45
La Jonction
A great pitch, steep but they're all big holds.
 
3 Stars
Strong
6b+
46
Baston Général
A good one to get started on, with just one tricky bit.
 
2 Stars
6a
47
Ramboutan Farcis
A few tough pulls.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
48
Roadhouse Blues
 
1 Stars
6a
49
Sid Vicious
A short section of pocket-pulling.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6b+
50
Le Rut
1) 6a, 2) 5+. Can be continued to the top of the crag - see previous page.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
51
Mauvais Sang
A beautiful, exposed pitch.
 
2 Stars
Strong
8b
52
Spécialisé Funky
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
53
Le Grand Petrarkos
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
54
Petit Cali
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a
55
La Casse d'Eau
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7c
56
SOeScalade
1) 7a+. Break left from the third pitch of Le Rut. 2) 6c+. Not a pleasant start, but the slab above is fun.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
57
Crank Frank
 
Technical
7b
58
Comme Papa
 
1 Stars
4c
59
La Montée aux Enfers
 
3 Stars
6b+
60
Carton Jaune

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a+
61
Scorpion
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 7a, 4) 6b, 5) 6c+
 
3 Stars
6c+
62
La Flèche
 
2 Stars
6c
63
Deverdur
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
64
La Nuit des Morts de Rire
 
Technical
Crimpy
8a
65
Des Verts Pépères
Great moves throughout the route, then a frustrating finish where a long reach may make things a bit easier.
 
3 Stars
Reachy
6c
66
Kamikaze
Always be wary of routes named 'kamikaze'!
 
3 Stars
6c+
67
Imitation Granit
Start at the prominent granite-like flake.
 
3 Stars
5c
68
Bourreau d'enfants
 
2 Stars
6b
69
Le Rut (P1 and P2)
1) 6a, 2) 5+. Can be continued to the top of the crag - see previous page.
 
3 Stars
6a
70
L'Anamour
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
71
J'ai du Vague à l'Âme
 
2 Stars
6b+
72
Project
An infamous project, that remains unclimbed...
 ??
73
La Gougousse (P1)

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
74
Acapulco
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c
75
Excès de Zèle
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Crimpy
7c
76
Sous les Pavés Top 50
 
3 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7c+
77
Passage
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
78
La Ouate
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
79
Cadeau Empoisonné Top 50

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
80
Gédéon
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
81
Chocolat Moto
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
82
Il Moro de Venezia
1) 7a, 2) 6c, 3) 7a
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
83
Kookabura
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
84
Cool Raoul
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
85
Relax Max
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b+
86
Paradis Artificiel
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
87
Tranquille Bill
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b