Chaine du Clapis

Adjacent Areas
< Chaine de Gigondas  |  Saint Christophe >

Sport
Lots of sun!
25 mins
Uphill

The biggest of the Chaines present s huge south-facing wall of perfect rock. Single and multi-pitch routes including some very hard stuff in its central section. Guidebook page 206.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Traversée
A long trad route for which few details are known.
 5a
2
Nike

1 user comment
 5c
3
Ça Racle un Max
1) 5+, 2) 6c
 
2 Stars
6c
4
Papé

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b
5
Comme un Oiseau Sans Ailes
1) 6a+, 2) 6a+
 
2 Stars
6a+
6
Éléctric Soupçon
 
2 Stars
6a
7
Pan Bagnat
1) 5+, 2) 7a+. The second pitch can be gained from the left.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
8
Chagrin d'Humeur

2 user comments
 
3 Stars
6a
9
Brazil
 
2 Stars
6a
10
Silence
 
2 Stars
6a
11
Cheeseburger Top 50

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
12
Nid d'Écureuil
1) 6a, 2) 6a+
 
3 Stars
6a
13
Ventre Gris
1) 6a. As for Nid d'Écureuil. 2) 6b, 3) 6b
 
3 Stars
6b
14
Jeu d'Artifice
 
2 Stars
6a
15
N'Accablez Pas l'Os
y Diane 2c 5+
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
16
Tablier Rose
 
3 Stars
6b
17
Charter Pour Ouaga
2) 6a, 3) 6c
 
2 Stars
6c
18
Des Gestes Pour le Faire
1) 5+, 2) 6b+, 3) 7a
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
19
Château de Sable
1) 6a, 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
6b
20
Bayonnette
1) 5+, 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
6b
21
Sucre d'Orge
1) 5, 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
6b
22
Expo Système
1) 6a+, 2) 6b+
 
2 Stars
6b+
23
Traînée Marron
1) 5+, 2) 6b+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b+
24
Orange Méchanique
1) 6a, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
6a
25
Jardin
1) 5+, 2) 5+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
26
Belote et Rebelote
1) 6b, 2) 6a
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
27
Planplanette
1) 6a, 2) 6a
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
28
Sémenova
A steep alternative finishing pitch.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
29
Nikita
 
2 Stars
6a+
30
Baramine et Belles Écailles

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
31
Croissant Chaud
1) 6a. Can continue direct for a good 6b+ alternative. 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
6b
32
Attention Fragile
1) 6a. Start up Croissant Chaud.2) 6a. Can be done in one long run out.
 
2 Stars
6a
33
Rictus
 
1 Stars
6c+
34
L'Enfer des Roudoudous
1) 6a+, 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a+
35
Roudoudous Directos
1) 6b, 2) 6b+
 
2 Stars
6b+
36
Good Charlotte
 ??
37
Fonction Nerf d'Acier

2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
38
Georgette à Plat
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
39
Macroscope
1) 6c+, 2) 6b+
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
40
Tonton Tictac
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
41
L'Éliminante
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
42
Panique Rend Sourd
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
43
Panique et Lime
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
44
Vil le Coyote
Photo this page.
 
1 Stars
6a
45
Bouge de Là
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
46
Le Pire Ami du Loup
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
47
Les Novis

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
48
L'Oreille Absolue

2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
49
La Poire
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
50
Tempête de Cerveau
1) 6a+, 2) 7b
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
51
Le Philanthrope
1) 7a, 2) 6c+
 
3 Stars
Technical
7a
52
Andropète
 
2 Stars
6a+
53
Grotte à Gateau
 
2 Stars
6a+
54
Rêve d'Ô
 
2 Stars
6b
55
Rapt à la Tronçonneuse
1) 6a+, 2) 6b, 3) 6b+
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
56
New Baby
1) 6a+, 2) 6b+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
57
Vires Rouges
1) 4+, 2) 6a+. Can split at a belay on New Baby. 3) 6b
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
58
Philippus
1) 5, 2) 6a, 3) 6b+
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
59
Ésotéroc
1) 5, 2) 6b+, 3) 6a+. There may be a 4th pitch.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
60
Bleu Pétrole
1) 5, 2) 6b+, 3) 6c+
 
3 Stars
Technical
6c+
61
Les Mémoires de Darwin
1) 5, 2) 6c
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
62
Un Minou aux Yeux d'Océan
1) 5, 2) 7a, 3) 6b
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
63
Rose Bonbon
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 7a
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
64
Piano Postiche
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 7a
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
65
Luna Speed
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6b+
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
66
Viva la Vida

1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5a
67
Vistemboir
1) 5, 2) 4+, 3) 5+, 4) 5+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
68
Égoïne
1) 4+, 2) 5+
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5c
69
Solidarnosc
Approach from Égoïne. 1) 5+, 2) 6a
 
2 Stars
6a
70
Les Conquistadors
Approach from Égoïne. 1) 5+, 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a
71
Mégalomane Gaga
1) 6b, 2) 4+, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+
 
3 Stars
6b
72
Mégalomane
1) and 2) as for Mégalomane Gaga. 3) 6a, 4) 6b
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
73
Bénédetti Top 50
1) 5+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6a
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
6a+
74
Mélomane Gaga (P1)
Three more pitches - see previous page.
 
2 Stars
6b
75
No Comment
 6a+
76
Mon Capo
 6b
77
Unanime
 6c+
78
Bénédetti (P1)
Three more pitches - see previous page.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
5c
79
Hymnosens
 
1 Stars
6b
80
L'Enfant de Sable
 
1 Stars
6b
81
Karsherigène
 
1 Stars
6b+
82
Tintin au Bidet
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
83
La Planète aux Scorpions
 
Crimpy
7a
84
Camouflage
 
Crimpy
7a
85
C'était un Roaw
 
Crimpy
7a
86
Full Double Full
 6c+
87
On l'Appelle Fossile
 
Crimpy
7a
88
Urgence du Pire
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
89
Pébroune
The route continues for two pitches on old gear.
 
1 Stars
6a+
90
Plume
 
1 Stars
6b+
91
Rire en Dedans
 
1 Stars
6c
92
Le Zan
 
1 Stars
6c
93
Le Zain
 
1 Stars
6b+
94
Ultimatum
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
95
La Vie au Chon
 
Crimpy
7a+
96
Nébuleuse (P1)
The route continues for four pitches on old gear.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a+
97
La Loi du Caniveau
 6b
98
Germinal
 
2 Stars
6c
99
Les Démons du Temps Immobile
j Le Local Loco 1fc 7a+
 
1 Stars
7a
100
Profenator
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
101
Tous des Gosses
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a
102
Au Pays du Soleil Brûlant
Photo on page 213.
 
1 Stars
6c
103
Gogol Blues
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
104
Sacrépuscule
 
2 Stars
6c+
105
Le Zèbre
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7a
106
Hula Hop
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b
107
Le Marquis
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
108
Le Lélo
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7b
109
Crise d'Autorité
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c
110
Petit Vérin
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
111
Détour au Purgatore
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
112
Masculin Singulier
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
113
Bassora Fiesta

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
114
La Transformation du Boulanger
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
8a
115
Pas de Doute

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
116
Osmose
 ??
117
Moxita
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
118
Ticket Pour un Aller Simple
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
119
Regards de Profanes
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
120
Over the Topinambours
A 7b+ to the first belay.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
121
Rien à Cirer
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
122
Ocunu Beach
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
123
Outrage
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c+
124
Est-Ouest
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
125
Saddam Kiki
 7b
126
Gillou
Two more pitches can be climbed at 5+, A1 if you want to get to the top of the wall.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
127
C'était un Petit Bonheur
The original start is up the previous route. The start shown is Garagiste aux Mains Blanches, the grade is unchanged.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b+
128
Tam-Tam
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b
129
Complicité d'un Paradoxe
 
1 Stars
Strong
8b
130
Le Lézard de Balthazar
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7c
131
Bird's Beach
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
132
J'ai Deux Amours
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
133
Gigondas New York
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
134
Ça Cracotte
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
135
Poisson d'Avril
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
136
Loin de la Foule
1) 7a. Continue past the first belay. 2) 7a+
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a+
137
Petits Doigts de Fée
1) 7b, 2) 7b+
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
138
Amis des Îles
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
139
Mini Prises, Maxi Vols
1) 7b, 2) 7b, 3) 5+
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
140
Invitation à la Danse
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
141
La Ballade du Mahabhartata
1) 6b+, 2) 6a+, 3) 6b
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
142
Les Chemins du Merveilleux
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
143
Courte Échelle
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
144
Crénoline

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b+
145
Lune de Miel
1) 6a+, 2) 6a, 3) 6a. Photo opposite.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a+
146
Tétanos
Look out for bees.
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
147
Opéra Roc
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c+
148
Logos
1) 6b+, 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
149
Vertigo
1) 6b+, 2) 6b
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
150
Sueurs Froides
1) 6b+. As for Vertigo. 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
151
Fée Folette
 
1 Stars
Technical
6c
152
Lagagne
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
153
Sacrilège
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
154
Supernova
1) 6a+, 2) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a+
155
Mandragore
1) 6a+, 2) 5+, 3) 5+
 
1 Stars
6a+
156
Perverse Dévers
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
157
Malpertuis
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c+
158
La Nova
1) 5+. Start up Nucléus to maintain the grade. 2) 5+, 3) 6a+
 
2 Stars
6a+
159
Coup de Boule
1) 6c+. Start up Malpertuis. 2) 6b+
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
160
Une Ideée en l'Air
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
161
Nucléus
 
1 Stars
5c
162
La Berlue
 
1 Stars
5a
163
Sans Issue
 
2 Stars
5c
164
Soupçons
 
2 Stars
5a
165
Picots de Rose
1) 5, 2) 5+, 3) 6a
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6a
166
L'Ombre d'un Doute
 
2 Stars
5c
167
Agadir Rien à Dire

1 user comment
 
1 Stars
6a
168
L'art à Croft
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
169
Pigne de Coucou
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
170
Rêve de Singe
1) 6a, 2) 5+
 
1 Stars
6a
171
Les Vautours
1) 5+, 2) 5, 3) 6a
 
1 Stars
6a
172
Gueule de Loup
 
2 Stars
5c
173
Italian Shoes
1) 6a+, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
6a+
174
Turbostyle
1) 6b+, 2) 5
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
175
Pinpin et Yéyé
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
176
Gargolot
1) 6b, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
177
Scorpigouille
1) 6a, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
6a
178
Douce Romance
1) 5+, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
5c
179
Histoire d'Aulx
1) 6a+, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
6a+
180
Pilier Central Direct
1) 5+, 2) 5+, 3) 6b
 
3 Stars
Technical
6b
181
Dernier Tango au Clapis
1) 6a, 2) 6a
 
2 Stars
6a
182
Tango Direct
 
2 Stars
6a+
183
Mad Max
1) 6b, 2) 6a
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b
184
Blocus
1) 6a, 2) 6a, 3) 5
 
2 Stars
Technical
6a
185
Roc d'Azur
 
2 Stars
6a
186
Extrême Droit
1) 6a, 2) 5+
 
2 Stars
5c
187
Hugo Délire
 
1 Stars
5c
  • Latest Comments

    For LES DENTELLES DE MONTMIRAIL

    Papé
    "Really hard for 6b!" 28/Jun

    Viva la Vida
    "This route is now finished. Three pitches: 5b, 6a, 6a+, the last of which is the..." 28/Jun

    Belote et Rebelote
    "Good .1st pitch" 09/Jun

    Vistemboir
    "Pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 can be easily combined. L3 is rather 5. Beautiful p..." 08/Oct

    La Fougasse
    "Some stiff pulls on small holds...6a+!" 23/Sep

    Arete Est de L'Aiguillette Lagarde
    "Superb route, the positions in the upper sections are amazing,this is one sport ..." 05/Jul

    Petite Émeline
    "The fourth pitch makes the climb worthwhile." 25/May top50

    Bénédetti (P1)
    "More like 6a+ for an onsite. Superb but continually bold, steep climbing. Not fo..." 21/Jan

    Petite Émeline
    "There is an extra fourth pitch (bolted, 4+) - just go through the window and fol..." 16/Oct top50

    Orphée
    "The 1st pitch is hard 6a climbing on pockets and excellent." 18/Jun top50

    La Démission du Pachyderme
    "Really powerful move to get off the ground, then the face is continually technic..." 02/May

    Orphée
    "Great route, classic! Honestly, 6c+ is a typo (did you mean the variation to T..." 04/Apr top50

    L'Ave Haineux
    "I agree not 6a+. The local guide gives it 5a+, a typo perhaps. Nothing in the v..." 28/Mar

    New Baby
    "First part just feasible with a 70m rope, put a knot at the end of it! Mounting ..." 23/Jan

    Unknown
    "Powerful moves and long reaches between big holds. An excellent route with a sti..." 16/Dec

    Frankie Goes to Virginie
    "The rock is great, the route is long and the moves just keep coming! A great wa..." 02/Oct

    Kébra le Loub
    "Good climbing but some big dodgy blocks." 26/Sep

    Fleur de Lotus
    "Amazing climbing that goes on for ever (40+ meters) ! Well hard for 6b+ (felt li..." 10/Sep top50

    Lucky Luke
    "Worth doing" 08/Jun

    L'Annie
    "Very polished, not worth three stars" 19/Apr

    Gilky
    "2nd pitch is excellent technical climbing on +ve holds. I got some rope drag do..." 17/Apr top50

    Crénoline
    "very good, but hard at this grade!" 12/Apr

    La Fraise des Doigts
    "This route, and the next 3 or 4, start from the end of a small gully with an oli..." 28/Mar

    Fonction Nerf d'Acier
    "fantastic route,hard for 6c - yorkshire 6c+ or 7a." 11/Dec

    La Fissure
    "an easy romp, but well worth doing." 24/Nov

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