Papillon

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Mal aux Seins >

Sport
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

Some flawless routes are to be found in this area, following lines of pockets up immaculate clean rock, and often they aren't as hard as they look. The routes do have a 'new' feel about them, which on the plus side means nice shiny bolts and no polish, but take care with some the footholds that haven't been 're-enforced'. Guidebook page 174.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Quart de Cercle
Nasty and going nowhere.
 
Strong
Crimpy
8a
2
Créscendo
A good knee-bar might give you back enough for the finale.
 
2 Stars
6c+
3
Hot Com 3 Pom
 5c
4
Sale Môme
A few pocket pulls lead to easy bridging all the way.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5c
5
Dam Ded
Slabby climbing up the pillar.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
6a
6
Oiseaux de Passage
Take the left-hand line at the top.
 6c+
7
LHOOQ
Take the right-hand line at the top.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b+
8
Péril Jeune
The extension is about 8b and may be a project.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
9
Refarin Tire Toi Top 50
The extension is a good but sequency 7c+.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
7a
10
Le Mono
Extend at 8a+ above the first belay.
 
3 Stars
8a
11
Un Nouveau Monde Left
The extension is 7c+.
 
3 Stars
7c
12
Un Nouveau Monde Right
A brilliant little route - easier than it looks! The extension is 7c+.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
13
Moshé
The left-hand finish feels nicely exposed.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
14
Sarah
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
15
L'Inachevé
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
16
La Scie des Lapins Bleus
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
7c
17
Chez Jolie
Eases significantly higher up - thank goodness.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
7b
18
Papillon Top 50
A great route which is a technical 6a+ to the mid-station.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
6b
19
Potiron, Citrouille et Cie
A nice 6a to the mid-station.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
6c
20
Salamadre
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
21
Touche Pas á la Belle Mère
 
3 Stars
6b
22
Pipougne Top 50

2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
  • Latest Comments

    For MALAUCÈNE

    Ni Pute Ni Soumise
    "The diagram in the topo is not right. Both the 6b and the 6a+ pass right from th..." 01/Nov top50

    La Voie Lactée
    "Very cruxy with a difficult clip in the middle of the hard section." 29/Jul

    Pipougne
    "This actually shares a start and the first bolt with the route to its left, rath..." 28/Nov top50

    Dam Ded
    "First bolt is missing" 09/Oct

    Ni Pute Ni Soumise
    "Further right than shown on the diagram (as is the 6b), Good climbing - a lot of..." 26/Sep top50

    Travaille Célébrale
    "Better than the 6a+ to the right" 10/Sep

    Péril Jeune
    "slow to dry and sequency but well worthwhile" 12/Apr

    Polarisant
    "Ignore the above - wrong route - it's late, long day and too much to drink" 27/Mar

    Papillon
    "Somewhat overrated. This route has two hard and very long reach sections on the ..." 22/Dec top50

    Dam Ded
    "Definitive 5c. Nicely bolted, and becoming cleaner as more people climb it." 24/Nov

    Travaille Célébrale
    "Totally three stars. If you can tell me a better 6b than this in this South of F..." 18/Nov

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