Cadenza Area

Adjacent Areas
< Lower Right  |  Obsession Area >

Trad and Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
12 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The upper wall, to the left of the central wet streak, has a number of creaky E5s plus a few good sport routes.
WARNING - The situation is superb but the rock quality on all the routes is poor, and the possibility of dislodging rock onto climbers and walkers below is very real. Hence only climb here in small numbers and be extremely careful where you walk and what you pull on. Stash your gear behind the trees and move around slowly and carefully. Any incident involving climbers here would almost certainly result in a total ban on climbing at Malham.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cadenza
20m. The best route on this area of rock that is now fully bolted. Climb the tree and teeter out rightwards onto the wall....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
7a+
2
The Man and the Myth
22m. An impressive climb up the clean white wall above a steep and slightly broken start.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Loose
7c+
3
The Moon's Apprentice
20m. The rounded arete a little too near the wet streak and on some slightly dodgy rock.
 
Loose
7a
4
Crash Dive
20m. Not a sport route. Start left of the tree, move up past an old bolt then over a bulge to a rest ledge. Continue past...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
5
Local Hero
22m. A brilliant route up the wall directly behind the furthest tree as far as the roof.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Loose
7c+
6
Local Roof
8m. Without pausing, continue past the belay of Local Hero to the top of the crag.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Loose
8a
7
Niagara
26m. A neglected route. Start right of the tree and follow the line upwards past new bolts to the roof and a wild finale.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
8a+
8
Soft Centre
20m. An impressively-positioned climb. Teeter up rightwards from the edge of the ledge to the first of three bolts. Climb past...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7b+
9
Rive Gauche
20m. Continue direct up the wall to the left of the wet streak.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
7b+
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep top50

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May top50

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

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