Adjacent Areas
< Lower Right | Obsession Area >
Trad and Sport
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
12 minsSeepage
Dry in the Rain
The upper wall, to the left of the central wet streak, has a number of creaky E5s plus a few good sport routes.
WARNING - The situation is superb but the rock quality on all the routes is poor, and the possibility of dislodging rock onto climbers and walkers below is very real. Hence only climb here in small numbers and be extremely careful where you walk and what you pull on. Stash your gear behind the trees and move around slowly and carefully. Any incident involving climbers here would almost certainly result in a total ban on climbing at Malham.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Cadenza 20m. The best route on this area of rock that is now fully bolted. Climb the tree and teeter out rightwards onto the wall.... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy Loose | 7a+ |
2 |
The Man and the Myth 22m. An impressive climb up the clean white wall above a steep and slightly broken start. | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Loose | 7c+ |
3 |
The Moon's Apprentice 20m. The rounded arete a little too near the wet streak and on some slightly dodgy rock. | Loose | 7a |
4 |
Crash Dive 20m. Not a sport route. Start left of the tree, move up past an old bolt then over a bulge to a rest ledge. Continue past... | Fluttery Loose | E5 6b |
5 |
Local Hero 22m. A brilliant route up the wall directly behind the furthest tree as far as the roof. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Loose | 7c+ |
6 |
Local Roof 8m. Without pausing, continue past the belay of Local Hero to the top of the crag. | 2 Stars Strong Pumpy Loose | 8a |
7 |
Niagara 26m. A neglected route. Start right of the tree and follow the line upwards past new bolts to the roof and a wild finale. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Loose | 8a+ |
8 |
Soft Centre 20m. An impressively-positioned climb. Teeter up rightwards from the edge of the ledge to the first of three bolts. Climb past... | 1 Stars Technical Loose | 7b+ |
9 |
Rive Gauche 20m. Continue direct up the wall to the left of the wet streak. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Loose | 7b+ |
