Upper Wall

Adjacent Areas
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Trad and Sport
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Uphill
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The upper wall, to the left of the central wet streak, has a number of creaky E5s plus a few sport routes. It is sunny and reasonably sheltered but there is some seepage on the routes to the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cadenza/Commorient
The best route on this area of rock. Climb the tree and teeter out rightwards onto the wall and climb past the first lower-off...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
7b
2
The Man and the Myth
An impressive climb up the clean white wall above a steep and slightly broken start.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Loose
7c+
3
The Moon's Apprentice
The rounded arete is a little too near the wet streak and has some dodgy rock.
 
Loose
7a
4
Crash Dive
Move up past an old bolt then over a bulge to a rest ledge. Continue past another bolt and peg and then left to a belay.
 
Fluttery
Loose
E5 6b
5
Local Hero
A brilliant route up the wall directly behind the furthest tree.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Loose
7c+
6
Local Roof
Continue past the belay of Local Hero to the top of the crag.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Loose
8a
7
Niagara
A neglected route. Start right of the tree and follow the line of bolts to the roof and a wild finale.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
8a+
8
Rive Gauche
Teeter up rightwards from the ledge to the first of three bolts. Climb past these then continue direct left of the wet streak.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Loose
7b+
9
Soft Centre
An impressively positioned climb. Follow Rive Gauche but cross the wet streak to join the finishing rib on Free and Easy.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
7b+
10
Free and Easy
Wildly exposed climbing, which is also part of the routes Totally Free and Totally Free ll. Traverse to a hanging belay to...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
11
Centrespread
A super-exposed link between both sides of the upper wall, usually done from right to left. Continue the traverse of Free and...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
12
Renaissance
The line of bolts that leads up from halfway across to the Free and Easy starting belay. A superbly-positioned wall climb...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
13
Breach of the Peace
An amazing roof above the Renaissance belay that has some surprising holds and yawning exposure. A variation is an Uneasy...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
14
Climb of the Century
Very technical wall climbing on tiny holds. Linking into Breach of the Peace gives Cover to Cover, 8b.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
15
L'Ob Session
A superb and exposed route featuring a fierce lower third and a very sustained slim groove above.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
16
Obsession Top 50
One of Yorkshire's most coveted sport climbs. Sustained climbing leads to a taxing finish. High in the grade.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
17
Total Eclipse
The massive roof above the Obsession lower-off.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c+
18
The New Age Traveller
Sustained wall climbing just left of the longest of the three grey tufa streaks to a hard move near the top. Only 7c+ if you go...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
19
N'Obsession
An attempt at the middle tufa; however it shares a few moves with Herbie before moving left to the channel between the two...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
20
Herbie
The right-hand tufa is hard to reach and pumpy thereafter. It has become popular to finish on the left, before the upper tufa....
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
21
Conehead
A sustained and extremely fingery route up the blank wall right of the tufas.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a+
22
Main Overhang
The original route of this wall. There is a particularly thin sequence of moves above the little roof. The roof above the...
14 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
23
Toadal Recall
A featureless section of wall with sustained, technical and powerful climbing.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
8a
24
The Toad of Beck Hall
To the left of the undercut, crimpy climbing gains a hard finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b+
25
Toad Licker
A short and tough line just right of the prominent undercut.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
26
Toadally Cool
The leftward-slanting flakeline to a poor shake at 10m. Trend right to finish at the Serious Young Toads belay.
 
Technical
Crimpy
8a+
27
Serious Young Toads
This line looks a bit scrappy from below but it has some quality sustained and sequency moves on good rock.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7c
28
The Last Toad
A direct on The Last Waltz which gains the left-hand end of the undercut then finishes straight up to a ledge and lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
7b+
29
Conceptual
A half-route which has become a popular tick in its own right but is a bit of an eliminate and has some reachy clips.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
7b
30
Conceptual Continuity
The full pitch is harder and better. From the lower-off ledge swing over the roof rightwards past a small groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
8a
31
The Last Waltz
Worthwhile and popular with some good independent climbing. Place some gear (or clip the bolts to the left) and climb the wall...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
7a+
32
Seventh Toad
As for The Last Waltz to the bolt then climb straight up the scary wall above. A thread (not usually in place) is required on...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
33
Gorgon Direct
A fine historical route that is high in the grade. The upper section is in the bird ban area so check before climbing.
 
2 Stars
Banned
E5 6b
34
Gorgon Quite Direct
The modern way of climbing the route follows holes to the pillar. Then step right under the pillar and climb the groove on the...
 
2 Stars
E4 6b
35
Duck Dive
A near sport route (7a+). Follow the wall (wire) past pegs to a hard move for a bolt. Pass this then go right to a belay.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
36
Jilted John
Climb to the bolt on Duck Dive and then continue up a shallow groove to a lower-off.
 E5 6a
37
Gravity
A popular half-pitch. Climb the centre of the wall past three gold bolts (thread on the right) to a ledge and lower-off.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7b
38
Wicked Gravity
The full route keeps going over the roof.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8b
39
Donald Ducked
Climb the right-hand edge of the wall past a single bolt. Move up (peg) then left to finish on the ledge.
 
Technical
E5 6b
40
Laughter
The crumbling pillar right of the loose corners. Poor.
 
Loose
7c+
  • Latest Comments

    For MALHAM COVE

    Conehead
    "Climb of the Century is a grade harder. That makes this 8a.." 04/Jan

    Twisted
    "My video of this is on my youtube page, type in Ted Twisted 8a and it will come ..." 18/Oct

    Slender Loris
    "Was my first E3 (sic) - sandbagged by mates who recommended it knowing it was to..." 23/Sep

    Junkyard Angel
    "Nice route but not as good as Crossbones/East Route combo I reckon." 14/May top50

    Slender Loris
    "outstanding route!!!" 12/May

    The New Age Traveller
    "Felt a bit easier than L'Ob Session and much easier than Baboo" 14/Jun

    Carnage
    "P1 covered in crud, don't do it. If you do do it, the traverse back left should..." 01/Jun

    Sychophants
    "Fierce middle section, felt high in the grade to me." 22/Mar

    Hands of Time
    "Good route - starting the steeper 2nd half leading up to the Space Race kneebar ..." 24/Oct

    Predator
    "Awesome route, lots of moves (i did around 70) and a complex crux. Route has its..." 19/Oct

    Carnage
    "2 very contrasting pitches, my partner took the 1st pitch up the crack and took ..." 28/Sep

    Swingover
    "The top wall felt really tough and sustained for VS to me. In comparison the cr..." 15/Jul

    Doubting Thomas
    "I have removed both the jammed wires today its no longer a clip up!" 10/Jul

    Midnight Cowboy
    "Very substantial for the size - bold bits, delicate bits, steep bits, and expose..." 03/Jun top50

    Just Not in Lust
    "Underated route which is well worth two stars. Very technical sequency crux with..." 24/May

    Carnage Left-hand
    "p1: Description does not quite match what we found. There are several trees/sapl..." 04/May

    Space Race
    "awsome route. as andy says, technical but sharp first third to a powerful middle..." 22/Apr

    Straightened
    "Found this definately harder than baboo. The start moves and subsequent laybacki..." 30/Mar

    Baboo-Baboo
    "8a in the Yorkshire guide, 8a on UKC, 8a at the crag. A soft one IMHO, but 8a. A..." 25/Mar

    Gravity
    "A good lower wall. The upper section is terrifying in that it feels so incredibl..." 02/Sep

    Obsession
    "Ermmm, might truly deserve 7c now. I pulled off the finishing undercut jug yeste..." 30/Aug top50

    Bad Brain
    "I have removed the jammed wire next to the peg. It had gone rusty and its medium..." 21/Jul

    Seventh Toad
    "scratch my gibberish above, I was confusing this with Last Toad, sorry." 03/Jun

    Bat Route
    "now thought to be 8c+ due to the loss of hold/s" 29/May

    Seventh Toad
    "It's been a sport route for over 5 years, I replaced a couple earlier this year ..." 25/May

    Seventh Toad
    "Climbed this route last week. Its been retro'd, any one else have thoughts on t..." 19/May

    The Kylin
    "I think the move right to the ledge, on undercuts, is really good and worthy of ..." 08/May

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